How to grow tuberous begonia from seeds. Tuberous begonia from germination of the tuber to the beginning of flowering

Begonia is an annual or perennial herbaceous plant Begoniaceae family. The genus includes about 1,500 species, which are represented by shrubs, subshrubs and “creeping” herbs. IN wildlife grows in places with a subtropical climate characterized by high humidity, but can also be found on mountain slopes at an altitude of about 4000 meters.

Begonia was named after the Frenchman Michel Begon in the 17th century. He was the organizer scientific research vegetation of the Antilles. Thanks to him, the expedition of Charles Plumier took place, in which this bright plant was discovered.

Begonia leaves are asymmetrical, with smooth or serrated edges. In many species, the undersides of the leaves tend to be red, brown, or purple. The upper part is usually green, but with various patterns and beautiful inclusions.

The plant boasts abundant flowering. Begonia flowers come in either one color: white, red, pink, orange, or with edging in various shades.

Reproduction methods

Home care

Begonia is a shade-tolerant plant, but with sufficient lighting its flowering will be more gorgeous. The optimal location of begonia is southwest or southeast windows.

In general, begonia is an unpretentious plant, but it can behave capriciously regarding watering.

Basic rules of watering

Begonia loves well-humidified air, but at the same time does not tolerate excess moisture in the soil. Proper watering consists of following these rules::

1. Begonia should not be sprayed, as water getting on the leaves can cause yellow spots to appear. Humidify the air using a regular humidifier.
2. In summer, it is recommended to place pots with begonias in a tray filled with wet gravel.
3. In winter, it is best to place a bowl of water next to the plant. Its evaporation will provide optimal air humidity.
4. Begonia is usually watered once every 2 to 3 days. In hot weather, it is permissible to increase the frequency of watering, and in winter - reduce it to once every 5-7 days.
5. It is necessary to water the begonia with settled tap water. If the water is too hard, it is recommended to pass it through a filter or use cooled boiled water.

The root system of young begonia seedlings develops very slowly, and at the initial stages it is very weak. During this period it is important to carry out proper watering, otherwise the thin and short roots of the seedlings may die.

During the period when the seeds have just hatched and the first sprouts have appeared, preference should be given to watering with a sprayer.

At this time, you can also use a bottom watering system. It consists in placing boxes with seedlings in a tray with water. Such watering will ensure that the soil is saturated with moisture and will not damage fragile young plants.

Conclusion

Thus, by following some rules, even a novice gardener can try to grow beautiful begonias from seeds. Of course, this activity is quite troublesome, but worth it. After all, only by growing begonia from seeds can you preserve the purity of the variety and admire the wonderful flowering for a long time.

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Many women gardeners know about a wonderful and unpretentious alternative to roses and peonies - tuberous begonia. Unlike roses and peonies, this plant bears flowers for a long time. You can admire it from the beginning of summer to the beginning of autumn, and if it is possible to move the begonia to an insulated balcony, for example, if you grew it outside in a pot, then until late autumn. With such a plant you can decorate even the most unusual corner of your garden; begonia has beautiful inflorescences from simple to fabulously double, reminiscent of a peony or camellia pompom.

You can grow tuberous begonia from seeds. The soil for planting should be loose, consist of a leaf mixture in 2 parts, and one part each of peat, sand and humus. The area where you are going to plant tuberous begonia should be filled with light. So, for example, if the flowers of a plant are small, they love the sun, but if the flowers are large, then it is better to choose a place with shade.

To propagate tuberous begonia using seeds, you do not need to bury the seeds, but simply scatter them on well-moistened soil and lightly press them down. Sowing must be done at the beginning of winter in leafy soil; after 2-3 weeks, the first shoots begin to appear. Seeds must be germinated at a high temperature of 20-25 degrees. To prevent our soil from drying out and the seeds dying, we need to create a greenhouse effect by covering the container with the seedlings with glass or film. Excessive moisture can also be harmful and therefore it is necessary to ventilate the sprouts.

After you have 2 leaves, and this is about a month after sowing, we begin the first picking, there are only 3 of them for the entire period. The first picking is to plant the plant at a distance of 2*2cm, cover it again with film and leave for another 3 days. Then we plant the sprouts again, but at a distance of 4*5cm, and the last pick is a distance of 6*7cm. During picking 2 and 3 times, the soil should be noticeably changed. Composition: leaf soil - 2 parts, 1 part peat and turf soil, half part sand. When picking, do not forget to maintain acidity in a pH ratio of 6-6.5.

Before planting in the ground, all leaves must close together. Planting can only be done in June; if the air temperature drops, the planted plants should be covered. Tuberous begonia very fragile, you need to be very careful when replanting, as you can break the stem and the plant will die. When transplanting into the ground, it is necessary to deepen the seedlings by 1.5 cm. Since the inflorescences of this plant can be different in size, for high varieties the seedlings are planted at a distance of 30-35 cm, and for low varieties - 25-30 cm. Before planting, it is necessary to fertilize each hole with potassium and phosphorus. After planting, when 5 leaves appear, spray the begonia with a special solution to slow down growth. Tuberous begonia will delight you for a long time.

Begonia from seeds at home is the dream of any gardener. When to sow begonia seeds? How to plant begonia with seeds? How to choose seed? Conditions for growing begonia from seeds. How to care for seedlings? Here you cannot do without the recommendations of specialists. So, recommendations for growing begonia from seeds with step-by-step photos.

When to sow begonia seeds?

Growing begonia from seeds will be successful if you know a few secrets. So, to germinate seeds, you need to create a humid microclimate, that is, organize a greenhouse. The soil in which the seeds are planted is taken with a neutral pH, but light and loose. You can add coconut fiber to the soil so that small begonia seedlings can cling to the fibers with their roots. The earlier you plant the seeds, the stronger the seedlings will be. Not necessary for seed germination high temperature. The main thing here is light. Germination can also be carried out in natural light. But the emerging shoots, especially in winter, must be illuminated with either a fluorescent lamp or a phytolamp.

Personal experience in planting tuberous begonia seeds

So, before planting begonia seeds, I studied a lot of information regarding planting dates, seed germination conditions and subsequent care of seedlings. When do you sow begonia seeds? Experts indicate that it is best to sow begonia seeds in November-December. Why? Firstly, seedlings obtained from early planting are different good health. Secondly, tuberous begonia planted in November, December and January manages to form a tuber with a diameter of 2.5 cm by autumn. It is well stored in winter. Tuberous begonias, the seeds of which were sown in February-March, manage to form tubers with a diameter of up to 1.5 cm by autumn. Some of them may not survive the winter.

The information that I gleaned from thematic forums on growing tuberous begonia from seeds was tested in practice. Looking ahead, I want to say that begonia planted in December develops faster and better compared to plants sown in March. By autumn, begonia from seeds planted in December had formed a tuber with a diameter of 3.5 cm. This allowed it to survive the winter dormant period, unlike begonias sown in March. The latter survived the winter, but took a long time to emerge from winter sleep and their flowering also began much later, compared to December begonias.

When does begonia bloom? On the forum I found interesting information about the timing of planting begonia seeds and its subsequent flowering. So, if begonias were planted with seeds in November-December, then ever-flowering varieties produce buds 110-130 days after the first shoots appear, tuberous varieties - on 150-155 days. If the seeds were planted in January-February, then the ever-flowering begonia blooms already on the 105-115th day after germination, the tuberous begonia - on the 140th day. The flowering itself lasts 110-115 days and 98-112 days, respectively. If the seeds of indoor begonia were planted in February-March, then the flowering of ever-flowering varieties occurred 120-135 days after germination, the tuberous variety - on 175 days and lasted 83 days and 67 days, respectively.

How do things work in practice? The tuberous begonia seeds were planted on December 1st. I noticed shoots on December 22. I’ll say right away that the seeds were not fresh. Out of 10 seeds, only 2 sprouted. The first buds appeared on the plants already on April 20, that is, approximately 120 days passed from the moment of germination to flowering. The tuberous begonia seeds, which were planted on March 14, hatched 3 weeks later, that is, on April 4. They developed faster compared to December sowings. But when the summer sun began to get hot, they stopped their growth, despite care, feeding and shading. Flowering occurred later and this happened on the 150th day after emergence.

Sowing tuberous begonia with seeds

How to plant begonia seeds at home? When will the seeds germinate? As mine shows personal experience and the experience of other gardeners, the germination of begonia seeds is directly affected by their shelf life. You can provide begonia seeds with the most favorable conditions for germination, maintain the temperature at +20...+22 degrees, add light with a phytolamp, but if the seed is not fresh, it will germinate for a very long time and the germination percentage will be 20-30% at best. .

So, I planted begonia seeds for the first time at home on November 26, 2016. I bought three bags of begonia seeds from the Cowell company - tuber begonia. The packaging date on the package of seeds was 2015, that is, the seeds were collected at least in 2015 and at the time of planting they had already been removed from the mother plant for a year. The result is that out of two bags of 10 seeds each, not a single one sprouted. Naturally, I was guilty of the germination conditions, and therefore I planted the begonia seeds again. I had one bag of seeds left from "Kowel" and I bought another bag from "Agrovest" tuberous yellow begonia. The landing took place on December 1st. Germination conditions: greenhouse, universal soil with the addition of coconut fiber, temperature +20...+23 degrees, illumination based on a phytolamp. The result is that the seeds from "Koeul" never sprouted. But things were better with Agrovest. Out of 10 grains, only 2 sprouted, which later delighted me with their lush flowering.

Of course, I didn’t stop there. Given my previous experience, I turned to a recommended manufacturer who sells fresh seeds. Being skeptical about such statements, I ordered only 1 bag of seeds, to check it out. So, the planting of domestic begonia seeds took place on December 31, 2017. The soil for planting is universal with the addition of coconut fiber, planting was carried out in a greenhouse, lighting was provided. Seed germination temperature +19...+23 degrees. The greenhouse was ventilated once every 1-2 days.

I could not express my surprise when I noticed the first shoots on January 14, 2018. That is, only 2 weeks passed between planting and the appearance of the first shoots. Seed germination was 100%; out of 10 seeds, all 10 germinated. In the photo below, the begonia seedlings are 2 weeks old.

Conclusion: planting begonia seeds at home will be successful if you choose high-quality, fresh seed. It is better to plant seeds in December-January. From good seeds Shoots will appear in 2-3 weeks. Begonia from seeds will bloom in April. By autumn, such a begonia will have time to form a tuber with a minimum diameter of 3.5 cm, which will allow the plant to successfully survive the dormant period and quickly produce new growth.

How to plant begonia with seeds? Detailed instructions with photos

So, to grow begonia from seeds (tuberous and ever-flowering), you need to buy fresh seed. The grains should be collected in this year. Next, you need to organize a greenhouse and select soil. Food containers with transparent (non-colored) walls and a lid are often used as greenhouses. This guarantees good illumination of the seedlings. You can take a special container for seedlings. After sowing, it is covered with glass or plastic film.

I sowed begonia seeds in a regular food tray with transparent walls, and also used transparent plastic water bottles, having previously trimmed them. The resulting design is shown in the photo below. Such a greenhouse is compact and costs absolutely nothing.

Soil for growing begonias from seeds. You can buy special soil. This is Begonia land, where pH = 5.5-6.5. Some gardeners like peat tablets. Before planting the seeds, peat tablets are simply poured warm water, wait until they swell. If you pour boiling water over peat tablets, you need to wait a little. Peat tablets should not only swell well, but also cool down. Advantages of peat tablets: the plant that grows in them does not need to be planted. When the roots of the plant completely entwine the peat tablet, the latter can simply be transferred to a pot with soil. That is, picking in its full sense is not carried out; the roots of the plant do not experience stress.

I don't like peat tablets. Why? It is difficult to control their humidity. Peat holds moisture well. While the surface of the peat tablet has dried, the inside remains moist. If you miss this moment and regulate watering based on the moisture level of the peat surface, you can flood the plant. And some plants react very painfully to waterlogging. If begonias can be over-watered a couple of times, then, for example, gerberas are very sensitive to overwatering and immediately begin to turn yellow.

So, based on my purely practical experience, I plant begonia seeds in universal soil (it is easier to find in stores compared to specialized soil mixtures) with the addition of coconut fiber. I do not add sifted sand to the soil, since coconut fiber increases the moisture and breathability of the soil. I don’t add vermiculite either (it is found in small quantities in universal soil and that’s enough). Even though the mixture consisting of universal soil and coconut fiber dries out faster compared to soil + vermiculite, I am sure that my seedlings will not rot. And the greenhouse helps maintain soil moisture at a constant level.

The landing is as follows:: drainage holes must be made in the container. Fine expanded clay is placed on the bottom. Next, the prepared soil is poured. It is leveled and watered with a spray bottle. The soil should be moist, but not very wet.

Next, the begonia seeds (as shown in the photo above) are laid out on the surface of the soil at a distance of 1 cm from each other. The grains are very small, similar to dust, and therefore a toothpick or needle will come in handy here. Once again, carefully water the soil with a spray bottle. You don’t need to be too zealous with the water pressure, otherwise the small seeds will simply be washed away. The seeds do not need to be pressed into the ground or sprinkled with soil on top. This negatively affects germination.

After watering, the greenhouse is closed and placed in a bright place for germination. The recommended germination temperature is +20...+24 degrees. But I came to the conclusion that the germination temperature simply should not fall below +17 degrees. It is necessary to organize illumination 12 hours a day if there is not enough natural light. It could be fluorescent lamp. It is preferable to place greenhouses on windows on the east or west side. How to water? Usually, high air humidity is maintained in the greenhouse, but sometimes the soil needs to be watered with warm water. Bottom watering is not recommended. I water either with a syringe (a drop of water under each plant) or with a spray bottle. But you need to be careful with the water pressure, otherwise the seeds are easily washed away from the surface of the soil.

If condensation forms on a greenhouse with begonia seeds, this indicates high humidity of both the air and the soil inside. To fix everything, increase the ventilation time of the greenhouse (2 times a day for 20 minutes). No watering is carried out.

How to care for begonia seedlings?

Begonia seedlings are very small, since the seeds are no different large sizes. They can often only be seen under a magnifying glass. First, thin threads of roots appear from the grains. The main thing during this period is not to turn the grains over. Next, the cotyledons appear. During this period, some gardeners advise reducing the temperature of seedlings to +18 degrees. However, the majority is of the opinion that the conditions cannot be changed, that is, the temperature should remain within +21...+24 degrees, 12-hour daylight hours and high humidity. We ventilate the greenhouse 2 times a day. It is better to water the seedlings in the morning. A syringe is used for this. I completely agree with everything, but regarding the temperature I have my own opinion. I repeat once again: the temperature of begonia seedlings should not fall below +17 degrees. The lower the temperature, the less watering.

For the first 1-1.5 months, begonia from seeds grows very slowly. It may seem to many that the seedlings are not growing at all. This is an incorrect statement. During the first months of its life, a small plant grows a root mass (in the case of ever-flowering varieties) or a tuber (tuberous varieties). During this period, you can feed the seedlings. To do this, take fertilizer for foliage and ornamental plants and dilute it 3 times more than indicated in the instructions. Fertilizer should be applied drop by drop near each seedling only into wet soil. Illumination is required, otherwise the seedlings will stretch out.

As soon as the seedlings grow roots, they produce their first pair of true leaves. At this time, I begin to accustom the begonia seedlings to room humidity. I increase the ventilation time of the greenhouse. I pick at the stage of the first pair of true leaves.

Picking is carried out in containers of 30-50 ml. Regular plastic cups with drainage holes or special containers that can be easily purchased in a store are suitable for this. You either buy special soil for begonias, or use universal soil for flowering indoor plants. In practice, I tried a mixture of universal soil + coconut fiber. Very pleased with this mixture.

Next, I grew my begonias from seeds at room temperature +18...+25 degrees. After picking, I placed the plants on the east side of the house. Watering as the soil dries, feeding with fertilizer for flowering plants with microelements. The second picking was carried out as soon as the small begonia entwined its roots around the soil in the cup.

For successful growth and flowering, begonias need bright, but diffused light. Begonias practically do not bloom in the shade; their leaves burn from direct rays. The soil between waterings should dry out to half the pot, more is possible. Constantly wet soil in tuberous begonia causes the tuber to rot and the shoots to rot. The plant responds very well to feeding. The transplant can be done after the winter dormant period, when the tuber wakes up.

Tuberous begonia, planted in open ground produced in the spring, used very popular among gardeners. This is a hybrid plant obtained by crossing more than 9 various types, can be ampelous, herbaceous or grow as a bush. They often decorate terraces, balconies and flower beds; it grows well in a pot, just like indoors. But caring for this flower requires observing many subtleties.

How to choose the right begonia tuber?

It is best to purchase begonias not in large supermarkets, but in specialized departments and garden centers. Starting at the end of February, tubers from Holland appear on sale, ready for planting. They are usually packaged in special bags filled with peat or sawdust, but are often sold in bulk in small stores. You need to choose very carefully and focus not on a colorful picture, but on yourself. planting material. You shouldn’t wait for prices to drop when all that remains is low-quality goods that are unlikely to germinate.

The tuber should not be soft, overdried, covered with mold or plaque. It is often difficult to see signs of decay. Sometimes a package contains 2-3 plants, which can differ greatly in quality. You can touch several packages to find the largest and densest specimens. It’s good if they have awakened buds.

Advice! It is important to pack the begonias well, for example, wrap them in several newspapers. If you simply put them in a bag and take them outside, these delicate plants will freeze and most likely die.

There are four types of tuberous begonia:

• grandiflora,
• small-flowered,
• medium flowered,
• ampelous.

Their tuber size is different. The color of flowers can be very different; inflorescences have double and non-double forms, with a corrugated or jagged edge. Some are similar to peonies, daffodils, roses and camellias.

Several popular varieties:

• Golden ball is a tall bush with large yellow flowers,
• Kelblyutrot - large-flowered begonia with red inflorescences,
• Marmorata is one of the most common varieties, with huge double flowers white, there is a pink stripe along the edge of the petal,
• Pikoti - double large-flowered begonia, colors: pink, white or yellow with a pink border,
• Chanson is an ampelous perennial with small double flowers.

Tuber processing

Typically, begonia is purchased before the soil on the site has warmed up enough for planting in open ground. Such planting material can be put in a cool room or stored in the refrigerator (vegetable compartment) until March, if the buds have not yet begun to grow. No maintenance is required. But, if the tuber has already awakened, you should not wait for warmer weather and leave it in the bag. In order for the plant to grow root mass, it is placed in a pot. It is necessary to plant in loose soil, quite fertile, to which it is advisable to add vermiculite.

You can purchase a ready-made substrate or prepare the mixture yourself by mixing two parts of leaf soil with one part of humus, peat and sand. There is no need to compact the soil. But before planting begonia, the tubers need to be processed. First of all, dry roots should be removed. Then the planting material is treated with a special fungicide, which is diluted in warm water according to the instructions. The tuber is lowered into a pre-prepared container with the preparation by about two-thirds - so that no liquid gets on the top, otherwise it may rot. You need to keep the begonia in the solution for 20-40 minutes.

How to plant a tuber in a pot?

The container for planting tubers should not be deep, since root system this plant has a superficial one. You can germinate several begonias at once in one box if you place them at a distance of 10 cm from each other to make care easier, but then the grown plants will still have to be replanted. For one, it is better to choose a wide but low pot. The distance from the wall to the tuber should be at least 5 cm.

These flowers respond very well to long-acting fertilizers and can be added to the soil immediately. For begonias, drainage is required - expanded clay, broken brick or clay shards. The tuber should be planted with the convex part down; roots will form on it. The buds of begonias are on the concave side. When planting, it is not buried, because if moisture gets into the recess, the plant can rot. Water carefully, along the edge of the pot.

Some gardeners recommend covering the tuber with a bottle or jar to create greenhouse conditions. But you don’t need to do this, otherwise begonia, once in open ground, may not adapt. The pot should be immediately placed on a bright window, but not in direct sunlight, where the temperature is not lower than +16 °C. Caring for plantings involves regular moderate watering, protection from drafts and ensuring a flow of fresh air.

Planting in open ground

The plant must be gradually accustomed to outdoor conditions, taken to a warm balcony or terrace, gradually increasing the interval. Some gardeners plant tubers directly into the ground in early March, covering them with several layers of special material. But this method of germination is suitable only for those who have the opportunity to constantly monitor the garden. Tubers can be planted in open ground when the threat of frost has passed.

Growing begonias in the garden begins with finding a wind-protected, bright place for planting, but not under the scorching sun. These plants can withstand shade from direct sun rays Burns may occur on the leaves. If several bushes are planted, then the distance between them depends on the size: large specimens are planted 30 cm from each other, medium ones - 20, small ones - 15. The soil should be very loose and breathable. You can put humus and ash at the bottom of the planting hole, and use the same mixture to mulch the soil after planting.

Further care for tuberous begonia consists of abundant watering, but without stagnation of moisture. It's better to do this in the morning. The shoots of the plants are very fragile, so they need to be handled carefully. During the growth period, they can be tied to a support. Abundant Flowering continues from late May to mid-October, usually it is abundant - the flowers are large, bright, of various shapes and colors. Terry begonia is especially attractive; it looks like a living bouquet.

Caring for begonias both in the ground and in a pot includes removing faded flowers. In these plants they are bisexual - the male ones are usually inconspicuous, they can also be removed if you do not plan to collect the seeds. It is not necessary to spray the bushes, as this can cause sunburn. You can feed them mineral fertilizers, 2-3 times during the entire growing season.

Dormant period of tuberous begonia

By the beginning of autumn, tuberous begonias are prepared for a dormant period, gradually reducing watering and stopping feeding. At this time, adult plants can be propagated by cuttings. When plants prepare for winter, their above-ground parts begin to die. Watering should be stopped when all the leaves fall off. Then the top is cut off, and after 2 weeks the tubers are cleared of soil and placed in peat or sphagnum. Sphagnum moss has bactericidal properties and protects begonias from rotting. For storage, choose a place where the temperature is no higher than 8 °C, for example, the vegetable compartment in the refrigerator. Subsequent care consists of regularly inspecting the tubers; those that are rotten are removed.

Young plants grown from seeds often remain green. In the fall, before frost, such begonias along with a clod of earth are dug up, sorted by size, placed in boxes 15 cm high and sprinkled with substrate. They are placed in a bright, cool place (about +15 °C), care during this period consists of limited watering, preventing the earthen clod from drying out. In the spring, when the bushes resume growth, they are again placed in pots before being transplanted into open ground.

Tuberous begonia can be propagated vegetatively (by dividing the tuber), seeds and cuttings. The first method is especially popular and is often used to rejuvenate plants. For it, large tubers are chosen, 2-3 years old with several buds, which are cut with a sharp knife. The cuts need to be sprinkled with crushed coal and the resulting parts should be planted in the ground. Caring for them is the same as for a regular begonia tuber.

When cuttings, all the characteristics of the mother plant are preserved, but this method is quite labor-intensive. Cuttings are taken in spring or autumn. To do this, the shoots are twisted out of the tuber, sprinkled with coal on the bottom and dried. They are usually rooted in soil or, for which they use a greenhouse. Roots appear within a month. Then the cuttings are planted in pots and cared for as for indoor plants.

The best way to propagate tuberous begonias is to sow seeds. Since they are very small, they are sold in a special shell that dissolves in water. It is better to mix seeds obtained independently with fine-grained sand. Sowing is carried out in January - February. Then the plant will have time to bloom in the summer and form a tuber by autumn.

For sowing, take a container with drainage holes, put fine expanded clay at the bottom and pour pre-spilled soil on top pink solution potassium permanganate. The seeds are sown superficially, not covered with soil, after which the container is placed in a greenhouse or covered with a lid. Optimal temperature for germination: +23-27 °C. The seedlings are sprayed with a spray bottle, preventing the soil from drying out. After 2 weeks, the greenhouse begins to be ventilated. Seedlings dive when the first pair of true leaves appear.

Conclusion: when buying planting material, you need to carefully examine it and choose the densest and healthiest specimens. If the tuber does not have buds, it can be put in the refrigerator until March; when it wakes up, it is planted in a pot, having first been pickled. Plants are planted in open ground when the threat of frost has passed.

Care consists of regular watering and fertilizing. For the winter, begonias are dug up, young plants are planted in a box, adults, the above-ground part of which dies, are cleared from the ground and stored in a cool place until spring. Plants propagate by seeds, cuttings and tuber division. If you follow a few rules for caring for tuberous begonia, this flower can become a decoration for any garden.

Growing ampelous begonia using seeds is quite troublesome, since the procedure requires constant monitoring. But if a number of agrotechnical nuances are observed, the result of the work will bring extremely positive emotions. As a rule, decorative deciduous or ever-flowering varieties of begonias are grown from seeds, but tuberous crops can also be grown in the same way (although the process is quite slow, so considerable patience is required).

The ampelous form of begonias is very popular among those gardeners who love unpretentious crops with beautiful asymmetrical leaves and semi-double/double flowers. What is characteristic is that lush flowering, excellent decorative characteristics and extreme ease of care allow even novice gardeners to grow ampelous begonia.

Note! Representatives of the family reproduce mainly by cuttings and tubers, but in some cases the use of seeds is the only way in an accessible way obtaining begonias with the right number of leaves and the necessary flowers.

In order for plants to be strong and healthy, they need to be provided with suitable conditions, which you should know about before you start working.

Ampelous begonia - photo

Table. Conditions for normal development

Now, having understood the features of care, let’s look at the growing procedure itself.

You should start with the fact that it is recommended to grow this plant from seeds at the end of February or at the beginning of March - it is then that the length of daylight hours actively increases, and the activity of the sun noticeably increases. Thanks to all this, maintaining the required temperature will be much easier.

Stage one. Preparing planting material

Ampelous begonia "Alcor F1" Begonia ampelous "Carmen F1"
Begonia ampelous "Venus" Seeds. Begonia "non-stop f1", orange

Start working by selecting high-quality and most convenient seed material for yourself. In special stores you can purchase begonia seeds, which can be of two types.

1. Granulated - such seeds are more convenient to sow, because they are large in size due to the special coating of nutrients. The best option for spot sowing using peat or coconut tablets.
2. Non-granulated (ordinary) - do not have a nutrient shell, which means they are smaller in size and are most suitable for sowing in special seedling containers.

Stage two. Sow the seeds

The sowing procedure depends on what kind of seeds you are using. Let's take a closer look at each of the two possible options.

Option #1. We use granulated seeds

Such seeds, as noted earlier, are more convenient to sow, and they are more suitable for sowing in peat tablets (or in coconut tablets, but the procedure will look the same). This method is convenient because it allows you to do without picking, which is so dangerous for developing young plants.

To sow, first take the tablets themselves, place them on a tray and soak them thoroughly with water. After this, place a granulated seed on top of each tablet, lightly spray with water (the latter should be at room temperature), which is more convenient to do with a spray bottle, and put something on top to maintain the required level of humidity (this could be a plastic cup, a PET bag, etc.). In the future, water the tablets through the tray. Monitor the humidity level with special care, because the sprouts that appear can easily dry out.

You can also plant such seeds in cassette-type containers: place two granules in each cell filled with soil and press them a little (this will speed up the dissolution of the shell), and then cover the container with something. It is also important that you take approximately one and a half to two times as many seeds as the output plants require. For example, if you need 20 seedlings, then buy 40 seeds.

Video - How to use peat tablets

Option #2. We use regular seeds

In this case, use seedling boxes for sowing. The soil should be slightly acidic, as close to neutral as possible.

To prepare the soil mixture, use:

• leaf soil;
• sand;
• turf soil.

Note! Due to the fact that begonia seeds can be affected by mold, it is advisable to wash all the ingredients that will be used for the mixture with water and heat-treat them in an oven for half an hour.

After this, mix sand, turf and leaf soil in a ratio of 1:1:4. Try to prepare the soil before frost sets in. Or, as an option, buy ready-made soil.

Sowing regular seeds is not easy because they are very small (there are about 60,000 seeds per gram). For this reason, start by moistening the soil in the boxes, preferably 24 hours before planting. Also, do not forget about the drainage (“cushion” of small stones), which must be placed at the bottom of the boxes before filling with soil. Next, take the seeds and distribute them evenly over the surface, then cover with glass or plastic. You should not water immediately after sowing, as the seeds will be drawn deep into the ground by water, which is why seedlings may not appear.

The temperature in the room where the seedling box will be located should be approximately 24-25°C - this way the seedlings will appear more “harmoniously”. As for the germination time, it ranges from 9-25 days.

Seedlings of ampelous begonia in a container - photo

Video - Sowing begonia seeds

Stage three. Caring for seedlings

When the first shoots begin to appear, try to protect them from direct sunlight, and do not allow the soil to dry out. The seedlings will then be very tender, so give preference to bottom watering (place the boxes in a tray filled with water). You can also lower the temperature slightly – to about 21°C.

If the seedlings appeared in January, they will suffer from a lack of natural light (the days are still quite short this month). The plants will be underdeveloped and weak, most of them will die. In this case, first think about providing piece lighting. Ideally, seedlings should be under constant light for at least 12-13 hours a day. At first, additional lighting will work even after midnight, but as the day length begins to increase and the seedlings begin to develop, this time will gradually decrease.

Note! You will also have to gradually harden the seedlings - slightly open the film and keep the boxes in this position for 15 minutes. Daily increase both the degree of opening of the film and the hardening period so that the begonia gets used to its natural environment.

Thanks to this, you will prevent the development of fungi, which inevitably appear with excessive watering and non-compliance with the temperature regime.

Stage three. Picking

If you use peat tablets for growing, then picking is not required. If the above temperature conditions are observed, the first shoots will appear within two weeks. Later, when each plant has three true leaves, transplant the seedlings along with the peat mass and cover with a layer of soil. Pour on top a small amount water. Actually, that's all.

In the case of ordinary seeds, everything is somewhat more complicated - about 50 days after sowing, the seedlings need to be planted. If you plan to sell the seedlings, then transplant them into separate cups: take the same soil that was used when sowing, arrange drainage at the bottom and fill each of them (cups) with soil so that about 1 cm remains to the edge. It is important, however, that so that the cups are at least 10 cm in height. If you are decorating hanging baskets, then take wide flat pots and pick four or five plants at a time.

Place the cups so that the seedlings are well lit and do not need to be rearranged/turned over from time to time. At the same time, lower the temperature a couple more degrees. The stems will stretch naturally, therefore there is no need to use growth stimulants. However, two weeks after picking you need to add complex fertilizer; in the future, plants should be fed at the same intervals. During the growing season, use nitrogen fertilizers, and during budding and flowering - only phosphorus-potassium.

After about 20-22 weeks, the seedlings will have grown to a size at which they can be transplanted to a permanent location. Often, hanging begonias are planted in hanging baskets and pots, placed on balconies, terraces or verandas. Already at the beginning of summer, the first flowers will open. The flowering period itself is quite long (lasts until the first frost), but if the pots are brought indoors, the begonia will bloom a little longer.

Note! The flowers on this plant are of two types - male (large) and female (small). In case of insufficient care, large flowers may fall off, causing the begonia to lose its decorative effect. That is why it is necessary to strictly observe the agrotechnical requirements described in the article.

Video - Accelerating the development of begonia

As a conclusion. Diseases, pests

If you violate the rules of care, the leaves and buds may well fall off. This will indicate that you have not watered it often enough and the air humidity is too low. If a whitish coating forms on the surface of the plants, it means that powdery mildew. In this case, leaves damaged by the disease will have to be removed, and the plants themselves will have to be treated with a fungicide.

Ampelous begonia can also be damaged by red spider mite, which often happens in closed rooms with dry air. This may be indicated by the appearance of yellowish spots on the leaves. And if you find such spots on a begonia, then immediately treat it with a systemic insecticide.