How to stitch with denim thread. Sewing threads for denim and thick fabrics

How to sew thick denim, stitching jeans

Very practical tips on sewing denim from the blog "Vilvetkin's Handicrafts". Author's words.

I often sew from denim and always want the seams to look as “factory” as possible. Alas, it is not possible to imitate a factory double stitch on a household sewing machine, but it is quite possible to make a decent double stitch.
Many who have tried to sew with special denim threads have encountered difficulties - the machine skips stitches, loops on one side of the fabric, etc. It happened to me too. But then, after scouring several sewing forums, I found a number of tricks that finally reconciled my machine with thick denim threads.

How to sew thick denim, stitching jeans">

The first trick is threads

A thick decorative thread is used only as the top thread; we thread a regular thread into the bobbin, for example, reinforced linen-lavsan thread No. 45. The upper thread tension needs to be loosened a little.

Trick two - needle position

The most common problem with sewing jeans is skipping stitches on thick spots, for example when hemming jeans at the seams. This happens because the needle does not have time to pierce the thick fabric. As a result, when the needle and the upper thread enter the shuttle, it has already turned and the upper thread does not catch on the lower one. In order to avoid this, you can place the needle a little lower! Not all the way! I know the idea sounds seditious, I was always taught to insert the needle all the way, otherwise... well, something terrible and irreparable will happen to the machine. But no, everything turned out a little wrong.

Here is the needle position in my machine when sewing jeans. And no missed stitches!!!

The third trick for an even delay is a presser foot with a guide.

These paws are called different manufacturers in different ways, but the essence is the same - the presence of a guide, the position of which can be adjusted.

I have this one. Naturally, the elastic band is not included. This is my copy that has become loose from long use :))
The stitching is done sequentially. Those. First, the seam is close to the edge, then the second is parallel to the first. To ensure that the stitching width is the same throughout the entire product, while sewing the first decorative seam, I mark the stitching width directly on the foot. In this case, the red dot corresponds to the first line, the blue dot to the second. Very convenient.

And finally, not tricks, but rather reminders:

Jeans are sewn with a thick needle No. 100, preferably a special denim one. This needle has a special tip shape, which makes it easier to pierce thick tissue.

A fairly well-known trick, but repetition is the mother of learning. If you need to sew a thickening, for example, a place where several seams intersect, you should try to make this place thinner - steam it with an iron or soften it by beating it with a hammer. Do not overdo it with the hammer, otherwise you may damage the fabric.

When passing through a thickening at the moment when the foot hangs in the air, clinging to the thickening, and the needle is already piercing a thin area, skipping stitches and a violation of their length may also often occur due to the fact that the foot does not press the fabric at this moment. With such a transition, you can pre-place under the thinner section paper folded in several layers, equal in height to the thickening. Of course, next to the seam, just to give support to the foot. When the foot passes the thickening and completely moves to the thin area, you can remove the paper and continue sewing as usual.

Good luck with your denim sewing! I hope these tricks will save you stress and time.

Unfortunately, the listed types of thread are not so easy to find in stores, and the color variety leaves much to be desired.
But on the shelves of sewing stores you can choose imported threads. The following threads are intended for sewing denim materials:

Sewing Threads from Aman Company

reinforced polyester sewing threads - Saba 50 and Saba 35
contrasting thread for finishing stitches on jeans - Saba 30
reinforced cotton polyester sewing thread - Rasant 75

Sewing Threads from Gutermann

reinforced cotton-polyester sewing threads - H120, H75, H35

Sewing Threads from “COATS”

reinforced polyester sewing thread - Epic 60
reinforced cotton-polyester sewing thread - “Dual Duty” T-80N
cotton sewing threads “Admiral” - T-60

Sewing Threads Under the Trademark “Rain Bow”

polyester staple sewing thread “Ada” - A 202/120

You can also try using leather stitching threads for finishing stitches on jeans.

I think from the range of threads listed above, you can always choose the ones you need.

Now it's time to answer the second question

How to get around thick seams?

The seams on the jeans are really very thick in places and not every machine can handle them. I suggest not bypassing thick seams, but turning them into “non-thick” ones

The first thing you need to do is to install a special needle for sewing denim, for example it could be a needle marked “Jeans” 130/705H (more about needles).

Very practical tips on sewing denim from the blog "Vilvetkin's Handicrafts". Author's words.

I often sew from denim and always want the seams to look as “factory” as possible. Alas, it is not possible to imitate a factory double stitch on a household sewing machine, but it is quite possible to make a decent double stitch.
Many who have tried to sew with special denim threads have encountered difficulties - the machine skips stitches, loops on one side of the fabric, etc. It happened to me too. But then, after scouring several sewing forums, I found a number of tricks that finally reconciled my machine with thick denim threads.

The first trick is threads

A thick decorative thread is used only as the top thread; we thread a regular thread into the bobbin, for example, reinforced linen-lavsan thread No. 45. The upper thread tension needs to be loosened a little.

Trick two - needle position

The most common problem with sewing jeans is skipping stitches on thick spots, for example when hemming jeans at the seams. This happens because the needle does not have time to pierce the thick fabric. As a result, when the needle and the upper thread enter the shuttle, it has already turned and the upper thread does not catch on the lower one. In order to avoid this, you can place the needle a little lower! Not all the way! I know the idea sounds seditious, I was always taught to insert the needle all the way, otherwise... well, something terrible and irreparable will happen to the machine. But no, everything turned out a little wrong.

Here is the needle position in my machine when sewing jeans. And no missed stitches!!!

The third trick for an even delay is a presser foot with a guide.

These paws are called differently by different manufacturers, but the essence is the same - the presence of a guide, the position of which can be adjusted.


I have this one. Naturally, the elastic band is not included. This is my copy that has become loose from long use :))
The stitching is done sequentially. Those. First, the seam is close to the edge, then the second is parallel to the first. To ensure that the stitching width is the same throughout the entire product, while sewing the first decorative seam, I mark the stitching width directly on the foot. In this case, the red dot corresponds to the first line, the blue dot to the second. Very convenient.

And finally, not tricks, but rather reminders:

Jeans are sewn with a thick needle No. 100, preferably a special denim one. This needle has a special tip shape, which makes it easier to pierce thick tissue.

A fairly well-known trick, but repetition is the mother of learning. If you need to sew a thickening, for example, a place where several seams intersect, you should try to make this place thinner - steam it with an iron or soften it by beating it with a hammer. Do not overdo it with the hammer, otherwise you may damage the fabric.

When passing through a thickening at the moment when the foot hangs in the air, clinging to the thickening, and the needle is already piercing a thin area, skipping stitches and a violation of their length may also often occur due to the fact that the foot does not press the fabric at this moment. With such a transition, you can pre-place under the thinner section paper folded in several layers, equal in height to the thickening. Of course, next to the seam, just to give support to the foot. When the foot passes the thickening and completely moves to the thin area, you can remove the paper and continue sewing as usual.

Good luck with your denim sewing! I hope these tricks will save you stress and time.

Jeans— the fabric is quite affordable, durable and designed for long, intensive wear. Therefore, threads for sewing jeans are traditionally used with increased strength.

Unfortunately, the listed types of thread are not so easy to find in stores, and the color variety leaves much to be desired.
But on the shelves of sewing stores you can choose imported threads. The following threads are suitable for sewing denim materials:

Sewing threads from Aman

• reinforced polyester sewing threads - Saba 50 and Saba 35
• contrasting thread for finishing stitches on jeans - Saba 30
• reinforced cotton-polyester sewing thread – Rasant 75

Sewing threads from Gutermann

• reinforced cotton-polyester sewing threads - H120, H75, H35

Sewing threads from COATS

• reinforced polyester sewing thread – Epic 60
• reinforced cotton-polyester sewing thread - “Dual Duty” T-80N
• cotton sewing threads "Admiral" - T-60

Sewing threads under the brand name “Rain Bow”

• polyester staple sewing thread “Ada” - A 202/120

You can also try using leather stitching threads for finishing stitches on jeans.

I think from the range of threads listed above, you can always choose the ones you need.

Now it's time to answer the second question

How to get around thick seams?

The seams on the jeans are really very thick in places and not every machine can handle them. I suggest not bypassing thick seams, but turning them into “non-thick” ones :)

First what you need to do is to use a special needle for sewing denim, for example it could be a needle marked “Jeans” 130/705H ().

Second, you need to thoroughly steam the thick sections of the seams through a damp iron.

And third, give them a good tap with a hammer. Yes, yes, with the most ordinary hammer, the one used to hammer in nails :).

Just remember to put a layer of another fabric on the jeans so as not to ruin the jeans themselves. As a result of steaming and beating, the seam sections will become thinner, as tested from my own experience.

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Do you know how to choose sewing machine needles? Exists large selection machine needles in sewing stores, how to choose the right one and how many of them should be in your arsenal. This will be discussed in this article.

Universal — Suitable for all kinds of woven materials, choose needles according to the density and thickness of the fabric. It is also important to select the appropriate thickness of the thread you are sewing with. But this is material for the next article.

Knitting needles — They can and should be used to sew knitted fabrics, fabrics with thick pile, fleece fabrics, etc. These needles have a rounded tip, which during operation does not pierce, but moves the threads apart, which helps protect against damage; you have probably encountered the problem when holes form on the side seams of knitted products. This is a consequence of a mismatched needle or a blunt needle.

Needles for stretch and superstretch — has an elongated shape to prevent skipping stitches, ideal for fabrics that contain lycra elastic, used in swimwear and underwear.

Denim needles — Of course, you can use a universal needle, but jeans needles have a sharp, strong tip that easily passes through thick fabric. They are suitable not only for jeans, but also for canvas and many raincoat fabrics. You should not take too thin ones; No. 100, No. 110, and if you can find one, No. 120 are quite suitable for your arsenal.

Skin needles - ideal for genuine leather and leather substitute. The flattened tip easily penetrates the skin without leaving large holes. And with reverse side, for example, when stitching the side, your product will not have sloppy punctures through which the unpainted “inside of the leather skin” can be seen. Here the size of the game can be different based on the thickness of the skin No. 80, No. 90, No. 100, No. 110. Or you can purchase a set of needles with different numbers.

Sharp or needles for fine and silk fabrics - very sharp and elongated tip is suitable for chiffon, silk, microfiber fabrics and other densely woven materials, as well as for processing buttonholes. You will need needles of all sizes from No. 60 to No. 90.

For finishing - the large eye is designed for thick finishing thread and the super sharp tip of the needle makes it possible to easily pass through layers of fabric that are dense in several folds. It's better to stock up on No. 90, No. 100 and more.

Embroidery and titanium super strong needles — have a nickel plated finish and a large eyelet, which allows the smooth silk thread to slide at high speed without breaking. It's worth having No. 75, No. 80, No. 90.

For metallized thread — remarkable in that it has a large nickel-plated eyelet that ensures gliding at all speeds sewing machine and a large groove on the needle shaft that prevents delamination and thread breaking. Buy No. 90 or more.

For quilting - The sharp and long tip ensures even stitches on cotton fabrics with a cotton lining. It is better to have No. 90 or more in your arsenal.

Double - fixed in a polyamide block, sold one per package and have different distance between needles from 2 mm, 2.5 mm, 3 mm, 4 mm and 6 mm. They have classifications for denim, stretch and metallic thread. Using at low speed, according to the fabric and needle number, they will last longer.

For hemstitching-plates on both sides of the needle help create a wider hole, which is required for decorative stitching.

Self-dressing - universal needles with a slot in the eye; the thread threads itself if it is smoothly guided down along the needle. But don't get carried away with them. They break and can fail on fabrics with pile.

To summarize - sew with needles appropriate for the selected material, choose the thickness of the needle according to the thickness of the fabric. And most importantly, do not sew with dull needles; you should not skimp on the quality of the product being manufactured. After all, catching and pulling the thread does not paint the thing.

Be professional in everything! And let this article help you choose the right one sewing machine needles.