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Roof made of logs. Rafters for a log house

When cutting a log house, you must comply technological sequence, which is an important process for high-quality construction of a log house. Particular attention should be paid to the strong fastening of the rafters to the frame, on which the reliability and service life of the roof will depend.

The main tools for work are:

roulette;
saw;
square;
pencil;
hammer;
screwdriver;
level.

Marking the placement of rafters during their installation

Marking the fastening of boards to the frame must begin from the gables, with the elements being laid tightly to the gables. But first, a supporting element - a tooth - must be cut out in the board. In the upper crown of the log house, repeating the size of the tooth, a groove is cut out. It should also be noted that it is impossible to produce without a tooth and groove. When positioned from above, the ends of the elements must be laid 5 cm lower, taking into account the height of the pediment.

When the design of a log house roof includes a ridge element made of timber or logs, marking the installation, the rafters need to be nailed to them. When all elements (braces, sheathing) are installed, the temporary fastening in the form of nails is removed.

This is required so that all elements do not freeze during the process.

Typically, rafters are installed in increments of 60 cm or more.

The step distance will depend on the building project and its location. The rafters are installed on both sides of the pediment, resulting in a tent shape. In places where the rafters come into contact with the gables, there should be a gap of at least 5 cm, which is subsequently filled with insulating material.

Installation of hanging rafters: features

In this case, only the walls serve as support, which can lead to a horizontal thrust load throughout the entire structure (log house). To alleviate these loads, before installing and connecting the rafters to the wall base (log house), it is important to use a tie, which is made from a bar or board, thanks to which the counter elements are connected while being rigid in the upper part. The result is a non-thrust triangular frame, which is installed on the crowns of the log house.

There is a similar method when floor beams are used. Such elements are installed with the rafters in the same plane and perpendicular to the wall base. A similar method is used when installing attic buildings.

It is recommended to use the connection of the structure with beams, regardless of the weight of the roof, if the walls of the log house are sufficiently strong and stable. This is due to the fact that the pressure on the walls of the log structure itself will be point-like, and not uniform, as when using a Mauerlat.

With this method, beams for the floor structure must be selected with dimensions of 50x150 mm. When arranging a roof overhang, wooden blocks are taken of a size that allows for a protrusion of at least 55 cm. The rafter elements with this method should protrude beyond the base of the wall and be attached to the edge of the block.

Mauerlat attachment technology

The Mauerlat is one of the outermost elements of a log house roof. It bears pressure from the large weight of the entire roof, which should be equally distributed among the load-bearing elements. It is made with rafter elements, which provide this pressure. Mauerlat can be made from solid logs laid around the perimeter, or in meter-long pieces that are placed directly under the rafter elements.

For the manufacture of Mauerlat, only logs, beams and boards with minimum sizes 100x100 mm, 100x150 mm and 150x150 mm. If logs are used, then one of the sides is cut for maximum contact with the top crown of the log house. The Mauerlat can be secured using several methods.

When the log house is made of logs or timber, the mauerlat is mounted along the top row and installed on the logs. You can pin:

using wooden or steel dowels;
steel staples;
metal corner;
using galvanized wire with a minimum diameter of 4 mm.

How the rafters are attached to the Mauerlat

Fastening the rafters is a crucial moment in the roof installation process. The condition of the roof under the influence of gusts of wind, snow cover, and sudden temperature changes will depend on the method of fastening the rafter elements with the Mauerlat. All wooden elements are capable of absorbing moisture and at the same time expanding, and under the influence of rising temperatures, contracting. Given the characteristics of wooden structures, it is not recommended to arrange all connections with rigid fastening, as this leads to breaks and displacements. The occurrence of expansion forces affecting the walls of the log house due to careless installation of structures can also pose a danger. To prevent this from happening, you need to have an idea of how to install rafters on a log house.

Rafters with a Mauerlat can be secured using the following methods:

hard;
sliding.

The type of interface is used taking into account the shape of the roof and the type of rafters - layered or hanging.

Using a rigid mount

When installing rafters on beams using the rigid fastening method, it is important to adhere to certain requirements and eliminate bending, twisting, turns and shifts between elements.

These requirements can be achieved:

secured with a corner with a hemmed block for support;
making a cut on the rafter element and fastening this connection with nails and staples.

Using a corner with hemmed support bars, the rafters are placed on the mauerlat. The element itself must have a rigid stop along the load line due to a hemmed beam about 1 m long. It is also fixed on the sides with a metal corner to avoid shifting.

The second installation method is most applicable. With this option, fixation with nails is carried out from the side, at an angle, they are crossed inside the Mauerlat, and a third nail must be driven vertically. This results in a rather rigid assembly when fastening.

In both options, the connections are secured by another fastening of the elements to the wall, using wire or anchors.

At the same roof slope angle, the rafters are prepared using a template, that is, the same size.

Application of sliding joint

A sliding connection is created by fastening with the ability to move one element. In this situation, such an element will be the rafters to the mauerlat. You can attach the rafters to the mauerlat with the ability to move using the following methods:

The method of sawing down and installing the rafter element and sawing down the Mauerlat:

making a connection using 2 nails from the sides diagonally so that they intersect;
making the connection with one nail, which is hammered in the upper part through all the rafters and into the mauerlat;
the nails are replaced with a plate with holes;
using staples, fasten the rafters and the mauerlat;
the rafters protrude beyond the wall and are secured only with plates.

The connection is made using special fasteners - slides.

Each method allows the rafter elements to move relative to each other.

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Building a roof is a long and labor-intensive task, but it is necessary to protect the house from bad weather and heat loss. At self-construction construction, installing roof rafters with your own hands is completely doable if you comply with all the requirements for creating a roof base. The main thing is to have the necessary knowledge and at least some experience in construction. Don’t forget: the condition of the house depends on the reliability of the roof. In order to do everything correctly, you need to know the features of creating a rafter system and perform all the work sequentially.

Construction of roofs and rafter systems

The roofs of houses are usually inclined planes - they are called slopes. At the base of the roof slopes is a rafter system, on which the sheathing for laying roofing materials is laid.

The lower ends of the rafters are usually supported by a mauerlat. At the intersection of the slopes, ribs are obtained - inclined and horizontal. Horizontal elements are called ridge. At the intersections of slopes formed by incoming corners, valleys and grooves are installed. The edges of the roof protruding above the walls of buildings are called pediment or cornice overhangs. They are located horizontally, and a ledge extends beyond the outer walls. After laying the sheathing, then the rafters above them, the roofing material is collected. Before installing the roof, heat, steam and waterproofing must be installed.

Depending on the slope of the roof slopes, roofs can be flat or pitched. The former have a slope of 2.5-10%, and the latter - more than 10%. Slopes are the planes of the roof that allow water to drain from it.

Roofs are divided into the following types:

single-pitched - supported by two external walls of different heights;
gable - they are supported by two external walls of equal height (more details: " ");
tent - they have four slopes, which have the shape of identical triangles converging at a single point;
hipped (hip) - roofs with triangular slopes at the ends; when it does not reach the eaves, the roof is called half-hip;
mansard (broken) gable roofs - two planes of such roofs are rectangles connected at obtuse angles.

The type of pitched roof mainly depends on what rafter installation scheme was used. Rafters are the main load-bearing elements of the roof, and they must not only withstand the weight of the roof, but also be resistant to snow and wind pressure. To perform calculations of the rafter system, it is necessary to be guided by the type of roofing material, the characteristic wind strength of the region and the size of the snow cover.

The rafter legs are connected to each other in order to increase the rigidity of the frame. To prevent the roof from being blown away in a strong wind, the frame must be connected to the “box” of the house even before it is built. When building private houses, timber truss systems are usually used - they are easy to process and install.

Types and features of rafters

Before moving on to how to install rafters, you need to understand their structure and types.

Rafters can be layered or hanging. Methods of installing rafters and their type are selected based on roofing materials, loads in the form of wind and snow, and roof slope. Hanging rafters rest only on the outermost two points, for example, on the walls of the house. In this case, intermediate supports are not needed. Hanging rafters are designed to bend and compress. Also, such a system creates a significant horizontal thrust load, which is transmitted to the walls. It can be reduced by using metal or wooden ties connecting the rafters.

The tie-rods are placed at the base of the rafters, and the screed is also a floor beam. This method is usually used to create an attic roof (read: ""). The strings can also be located above the rafters. The higher the puffs are located, the more reliable and powerful they should be. Such rafter systems are used in cases where the spans are 7-12 meters, and additional supports are not provided. Thus, the main elements of the hanging system are considered to be rafter legs with tightening of the lower belt.

Layered rafters are built differently. They are installed in houses that have an additional load-bearing wall or supports located in the center relative to the external load-bearing walls. The ends of such rafters rest on the side walls, and for the middle part there is a support from load-bearing pillars or internal wall. Elements of such rafters work like beams - only for bending.

Installation of one roofing system over several spans involves alternating installation of hanging and inclined roof trusses. In places where there are no intermediate supports, install hanging rafters, and where they exist, inclined ones. If the roof span (the space between supports) exceeds 6.5 meters (with additional element supports 10-12 meters) use layered rafters.

This structure is created in the same way as in houses with a frame system. The sheathing is made from solid double beams or sparse flooring boards, and is attached to the rafters with nails.

The sheathing for soft roofing, for example, roofing felt, is made in the form of a continuous flooring. It should consist of two layers of boards - the result is a double flooring. The top layer of the sheathing is protective, the bottom is considered working. Single solid or sparse (having a gap of 20-30 millimeters) flooring is used as a base for covering asbestos-cement slabs. A lathing made of beams with a base of 50x50 millimeters is used as a basis for classic slate, corrugated slate and tiles.

Rafter legs can be fastened in several ways, depending on the materials from which the structure was erected:

by connecting to the top frame of wooden frame buildings;
connection with the upper crowns (relevant for log and cobblestone houses);
by connecting to support beams (used for stone houses). In this case, the thickness of the Mauerlat should be 150-160 millimeters. It can be solid (the timber is laid along the entire length of the building) or partial (the timber is laid only at the junction with the rafter legs).

Rafter legs of a small cross-section must be protected from sagging - for this, a lattice of struts, crossbars and racks is used. At the same time, racks and struts are made from logs with a diameter of 130-140 millimeters. Correct installation rafters on the roof means connecting them with puffs. To prevent the rafter legs from sliding along the tie and chipping, they are cut in with a tooth 1/3 the size of the tie and a tenon is created. Sometimes both are used at the same time. By cutting the rafter leg into the end of the tie, the tooth is moved as far as possible. The tie can remain unharmed if the rafters are installed 30-40 centimeters from its edge.

Installation of rafters

To create a rafter structure, you can take only grade 1-2 lumber without rot and wormholes. Boards and beams are cut to the required length using a circular saw using the cross cutting method, then the products are trimmed using the same machine according to a given template. The width of the elements is sawn on a circular saw according to longitudinal cutting.

The technology for installing rafters is as follows .

The system elements are assembled on the striker in templates. The parts that need to be connected are placed at the striker in a convenient order so that they can be used without unnecessary movements and effort. Before starting assembly, a life-size diagram of the rafters for connection is drawn on the striker with charcoal or chalk. On the striker you can stuff strips that will fix the rafter legs in assembled form.

After the cutting is completed and the control assembly is carried out, the rafters are marked and completed. The control assembly of the rafter legs is necessary so that installation can be performed without adjustment. The rafter elements provide places for installing bolts and dowels. Rafters with a short span are sometimes assembled directly at enterprises and delivered to the construction site in finished form.

Rafter log structures

In the manufacture of log rafters, round debarked timber with a diameter of 18 centimeters is used. Logs must be straight and even, without rot, wormholes, or curvature. Small irregularities are processed with an ax along the cord.

Installing rafters on a log house means creating support for the rafter legs on the upper crowns of the building. The reliability of the design depends on how correctly this is done. The ties with which the rafter legs will be connected must be made from high quality wood. The log selected for tightening is trimmed to the required length. Since round timber is most often supplied 6.5 meters long, tie rods for large spans are usually made from two or three logs connected along their length. Then they select the material for the rafter legs.

Struts and racks that are shorter are made from scraps or short logs. The ends of the selected products are trimmed and markings are made according to a template made of plywood or thin sheet metal. At the end of the marking, the cutting points are cut out and cleaned with a sharpened ax.

Beams composite type on plate dowels are used when arranging floors and upper chords of a farm - they are assembled from beams on wooden dowels. The most common precast section design is the beam. It is a structure of two or three beams made of coniferous wood, connected to each other with plate dowels and made using hardwood (most often oak, sometimes birch), used for installation. The dowels in the beams are installed along the entire length, with the exception of the middle part, in which the shear forces are insignificant.

Beams are produced from first-grade timber, pre-dried to a moisture level of no more than 20%. This figure for plate dowels for beams should be no more than 10%.

Before installing the rafters on the log house, the beams are assembled. This can be done using a special device consisting of two stands (supports), they have a shaft that rotates in two bushings. There are bars on the trestles on each side of the shaft. Using tie rods, the ends of the beams are moved. In order to achieve the required mounting lift in the beams, two spacers with a thickness suitable for the rise are attached to the shaft.

After the ends of the beams are tied, their middle becomes curved under the influence of the spacers, and the beams bend based on the amount of lift. When bending beams, you need to pay attention to ensuring that the planes of the beams in contact with each other are adjusted to each other.

In general, the installation of rafters during the construction of a bathhouse roof is identical to the assembly of the structure on the house. Before that, the Mauerlat is installed, the truss is assembled and the sheathing is made.

After completing the installation of the rafter system and sheathing, you can begin laying the roofing material. When creating a roof, do not forget about heat, hydro and vapor barrier, especially if you plan to use the attic.

Most owners of private houses build a bathhouse on their property. Laying the foundation and building the walls is only part of the job. You also need to properly make the roof with your own hands, since this will determine how much the structure can withstand precipitation. Only a combination of correctly performed work can guarantee you a high-quality result and comfortable conditions in the bathhouse. This can be achieved if you follow step by step instructions for construction with your own hands.

Options for roof designs for bathhouses

Before you start building a roof in a bathhouse, you need to choose the best option. It should be as simple as possible, but reliable, since it is needed to protect the structure from rain and snow.

Most often, baths are:

attic;
roofless.

The roof structure itself depends on this. This is also affected by the frequency of operation of the bath. For the one that will be used all year round, it is best to choose a gable roof with an attic, as it is warmer. There you can equip a rest room.

Summer baths are usually built without an attic, but are designed to install a tank of water for heating under the sun. This type of roofing is easier to construct.

According to their shape, roofs can be:

single-pitched;
gable;
multi-slope.

Shed roofs are the simplest. Typically used when attaching a bathhouse to the main house or other building. The rafters rest firmly on opposite walls at a certain angle of inclination.

The optimal tilt angle is 20–30°, but if the bathhouse is built in areas with increased level precipitation, this parameter increases to 45°.

Gable roofs are installed on separate structures. They consist of two parts connected to each other at an angle. For areas where a large amount of snow falls in winter, the connection angle should be quite sharp (from 45 to 80°) so that precipitation can easily drain and does not put pressure on the roof from the outside. And in areas where there are frequent winds, there is a minimum slope so that in the event of strong gusts it does not fly off the bathhouse.

Multi-pitched roofs are usually not erected on small bathhouses, as this is not entirely rational and convenient. But if a big one is being built bath complex, then it will be appropriate here. It has a beautiful appearance and allows you to arrange additional rooms under its arches (relaxation rooms, billiard rooms, storage rooms, etc.). The disadvantage of the roof is the complexity of its construction.

That is why masters often choose this option.

How to make a gable roof diagram correctly

The best option for a small bathhouse is a gable roof. It can be inclined and hanging. The first option is equipped with additional wooden stops for greater stability. Hanging systems rest only on mauerlats or ceiling beams. At the top, the rafters are supported by crossbars.

Preparation for installation: sizing, drawings

For convenience, all calculations will be made for a bathhouse with a side of 5 m. It is recommended to build it from sawn timber, and use the top row as a mauerlat.

Before making rafters, it is necessary to make all the necessary calculations and measurements, as well as determine the angle of inclination of the roof and the dimensions of the wooden elements.

The roof system is subject to certain loads:

the mass of rafters, sheathing and the roofing material itself;
workers' weight;
the likelihood of natural disasters (they are not taken into account in our country, since they have a low percentage of the likelihood of their occurrence).

When calculating the thickness and width of the rafter system elements, take into account the totality of all types of loads.

The lower elements of the rafters are placed on the Mauerlat, and they bear lateral and vertical loads. Horizontal ones are placed on crossbars. The ridge part of the rafters takes on the compression forces in the horizontal direction. Rafter spans are subject to the greatest degree of bending.

When calculating the load, it is necessary to use correction factors that depend on the height of the house.

There are also different snow load values depending on the climate zone.

Belonging to a certain climatic zone can be viewed on a special map.

Choosing roofing material

The wood that is used for the construction of the rafter frame must have a minimum number of flaws (primarily this concerns knots and cracks).

For the roof of a bathhouse, pine or spruce boards are most often chosen due to their high degree of strength. This wood is easy to process. Experts recommend using grade I lumber, well treated with antiseptic and antifungal agents. But for a small bathhouse, grade II or III material is suitable.

You can use laminated veneer lumber with a high degree of strength without signs of deformation. But such material is expensive.

20% (if the inside of the bathhouse ceiling is completely covered with finishing materials);
23% (if some roof elements will be located on the street, for example, a canopy over a veranda or terrace).

Wood for roofing must be dried in a natural way(in a dry room at a low temperature) for 2–3 years or in special chambers at the highest possible temperature.

There are a large number of roofing materials:

ondulin;
metal tiles;
soft tiles;
roofing felt;
slate;
euroslate;
metal profile.

The most popular and available materials are metal tiles and corrugated sheets, which are characterized by their low price and long service life.

The corrugated sheet is made of galvanized steel with a special coating. Its main difference from metal tiles is the thickness of the metal. For example, corrugated sheets with a thickness of more than 1 mm are not intended for roofing.

Advantages of this material:

high performance;
ease of installation (sheets can be easily selected according to the exact size of the roof slope);
light weight;
affordable price.

There are also disadvantages, for example, low sound insulation characteristics, less attractive appearance compared to metal tiles, short service life (about 5 years).

Advantages of metal tiles:

high degree of corrosion resistance;
excellent sound absorption, which provides multilayer material;
long service life (about 50 years);
wonderful appearance.

Despite its positive qualities, it is not suitable for the device pitched roofs, since it is laid only at an angle of at least 14°. Corrugated sheets have no restrictions.

Ruberoid is an inexpensive but short-lived material. It is easy to install and does not require much labor. For a budget roof covering for a bathhouse, roofing felt can be called a completely acceptable option.

Slate is an affordable roofing material that is suitable for a bathhouse. It has a fairly long service life (about 40 years) and does not require additional care. Installation of slate sheets is carried out quickly, which is very important in the final stages.

The disadvantage of this material is the high degree of water absorption, so after 2-3 years moss and various harmful lichens may appear on it - painting will help to avoid this. The high fragility of slate is also a significant disadvantage. Therefore, it is better to pre-drill holes into which fasteners will be driven.

What material and tools are needed

In order to build a gable roof for a 5x5 m bathhouse, you need:

boards (pine or spruce) - 50x150 mm (the distance between the rafters is recommended to be 90 cm);
unedged board for temporary fixation of rafters;
edged board - 20x100 mm (length 3 m);
metal corners;
metal plates - thickness 2 mm;
bars - 50x50 mm;
bolts with washers and self-tapping screws;
glued plywood, OSB or unedged board for sheathing;
slats - 20x50 mm;
insulation, vapor barrier and waterproofing material;
metal tiles or corrugated sheets.

Tools:

Bulgarian;
electric jigsaw;
stapler;
hammer;
tape measure - length at least 10 m;
sharp knife;
electric screwdriver;
antiseptic agents and impregnations.

Construction of a bathhouse roof: step-by-step instructions

To install the roof you need to follow the following plan:

Check the parallel position of the Mauerlat (the degree of run-up is no more than 2–3 cm). Fixing dowels must be placed at the required distances.
For a 5x5 m bathhouse, six pairs of rafter structures are sufficient. In order to mount a large number of identical parts, it is recommended to make one general template, which will significantly speed up the work.
To make a template, you need to take three-meter boards and knock them down with a nail at the top. Nail a piece of horizontal strip to one board, which will serve as a template for making the crossbar. Its distance from the ridge should be no more than 40–50 cm. Fix the crossbar on one board, and nail it to the second after determining the angle of inclination of the slings.
Lift the template up and install it in place where the rafters are attached. Change the angle of inclination and distance of extension so that the future ridge is exactly in the center of the bathhouse. After finding the right place nail the crossbar to the second board. Reinforce the boards and ridge with two or three more nails.
Place the template structure on the supporting mauerlat, mark the point where the rafters will combine. Connect these elements with timber and steel corners. Attach a wooden strip to the template at the point of contact with the support element.
At the location of the gables, nail the bars vertically. Their height should be similar to the height of the slings. To check verticality, pull a construction cord between them. Check the template along the entire length of the bath structure. Take a step of about 1 m and look at the angle of inclination. The ridge part must go strictly along the cord. All irregularities can be removed during the creation of the sheathing. If the error is more than 1 cm, then it is necessary to adjust the template so as to reach the average values.
If everything is done correctly, you can carefully remove the template and lay it on the ground.
Lay the template on a flat base and attach one leg of the rafters to it. Monitor the structure of the ridge part. Trim the knots. Overhanging excess rafter elements can be sawed off before installation or after installation.
Ridge rafters can be connected using several methods. One of them is the connection at the ridge part in half a tree.
It is best to connect the slings at an angle of 90°. To prevent displacement on both sides, the assembly must be fixed with steel plates. The fasteners should be located evenly along the entire length of the rafters.
Now you need to make marks at the top and bottom of the rafters. Saw off the top at an angle, as a butt joint will be made. The cutting location should coincide with the top and bottom of the template. It is not recommended to saw off two sling legs at once. It is necessary to remove the drawing on each of them from a certain side separately. This unit is connected by steel plates.
Using the template, you need to mark the point where the rafter board will rest on the mauerlat, and attach a board in this place that will rest against it. It can be fixed from the bottom of the sling to the edge of the board or from the side. This assembly will withstand significant shear loads, so it is recommended to use strong bolts for fastening.
Place two rafter boards on a flat surface, and check the location of the nodes using a template. Remove it and fix the bolt in place.
The upper elements of the slings must rest firmly against each other along the entire cut.
Then we bolt the crossbar with an overlap to the legs of the slings. You will need 2 bolts for each strap.
The crossbar is subjected to compression - even slight vibrations should not be allowed at the fastening points. To prevent the rafters from cracking when installing the bolts, it is recommended to drill holes for them slightly smaller than the diameter of the bolts by about 1 mm. The excess part of the bolt must be cut off with a grinder.
In the same way, it is necessary to install all the other rafters: lay them on top of each other, and check that all sizes match.
Once all the rafters have been made, you can begin assembling the roof frame. You need to first attach the outer rafters and secure them with pieces of boards. Carefully install each rafter leg and check the dimensions. Pull the cord from the side parts at the overhang of the rafters to the ridge.
Mark the fastening points of the remaining slings on the Mauerlat in increments of approximately 1 m.
Lift each sling one by one, align it along the cords and secure it with boards. Nail them at a certain angle.
When all the rafters are aligned, you need to check the accuracy of their placement, then begin fastening them using steel angles and strips. The corners must be fixed on both sides of the rafters. The result is a stable and reliable system. Now you need to align the length of the slings from below along the cord so that they protrude beyond the bathhouse by about 30–40 cm.
Install additional supports made of boards under the outer legs, which in the future will serve as a frame for cladding the gables.

Creating a sheathing

The sheathing can be slatted or solid.

After installing the sheathing, it is necessary to close the end sides of the roof. If you plan to create an attic, then you need to leave space for installing doors and windows.

Insulation from the inside

For insulation, you can use mineral wool 10 cm thick. First, a vapor barrier material is laid on the rafter system to protect it from moisture from the outside interior spaces baths

Insulation is laid on top of it, and then waterproofing material, which will prevent moisture from penetrating through small cracks in the roof.

Protective hydro- and vapor barrier films are laid with an overlap of about 15–20 cm, then glued together with construction tape.

How to properly cover a roof

Laying roofing material is no less important part of the roof structure than its construction. If you properly cover the bathhouse with metal tiles or metal profiles, you can protect all wooden structural elements from atmospheric precipitation, which will significantly extend their service life.

To lay metal tiles you will need:

Stages of installation of roofing material:

The metal tiles are lifted onto the roof frame using special belts. The first sheet is placed and carefully aligned along the end part and the cornice. It is attached with self-tapping screws at the points where the wave joins the sheathing slats. They are screwed in a certain order.
Laying is done from left to right. The edge of the second sheet is brought under the end of the first, and then they are carefully aligned. If the material will be laid from right to left, then the second piece should be placed with a slight overlap. All sheets are screwed one by one.
The first sheet is placed on the sheathing slats with a protrusion of about 40–50 mm, and secured with a self-tapping screw at the very edge of the ridge and the bottom of the cornice.
To install the second sheet, two pieces of the profile are joined using a lateral overlap method, so that there are no gaps or distortions. They are connected to each other with self-tapping screws under the transverse part of the wave. You need to start connecting from the eaves to the ridge. In this way, 3–4 profile sheets are fixed. A temporary self-tapping screw is unscrewed and the entire row of the metal profile is aligned in relation to the cornice.
The correctness of the offset on both sides of the block is measured. The sizes matched - everything was done correctly. Now the sheet is firmly secured with a self-tapping screw. All other profiles are attached at the joints with each other and screwed to the sheathing.
After the work is completed, it is necessary to remove all the shavings from the metal tiles with a soft brush, and slightly tint the drilling areas with paint of the same color as the material itself.
Then you need to secure the ridge in such a way that the attic is ventilated. It is attached to the metal tile using self-tapping screws at the top of every second wave. The overlap should be about 10 cm in length.
A cornice strip is attached, which will protect the frontal board from external factors. To do this, they are laid with an overlap of approximately 50 mm. They are nailed every 30 cm.
The end strip is placed on the side board and screwed with self-tapping screws (a step of about 1 m). It is attached to the sheathing slats through the top of the roofing sheets with self-tapping screws in increments of 40–80 cm. The plank should overlap the upper edge of the wave.
A special insulation is attached before installing the ridge strip. To do this, remove the protective film and stick it from the edge of the ridge towards the center at a distance of about 25 mm. The ridge itself is attached to the roof every third wave with an overlap of 10 cm.

Video: how to properly make a roof for a bathhouse from a log house with your own hands

Only on condition correct device roof of the bathhouse, you can be sure that it will serve for many years and withstand any natural conditions. Therefore, the construction of this element must be taken very seriously and responsibly, since it takes on heavy loads, and therefore must be as strong and reliable as possible. And then you and your friends can enjoy relaxing in the steam room at any time of the year.

If inside the house the gaps between the logs in the area adjacent to the ceiling of the first floor have increased, as well as along the entire height of the attic walls. The long façade walls have curved towards the street, as evidenced by the rather wide horizontal gap between the finished flooring and the baseboard (the wall has moved away to a distance exceeding the width of the baseboard). The floor, naturally, became warped. The internal partitions almost crumbled into separate logs - from this they were held in place by wooden pins present here and there. Freed from the load, some of the logs corkscrewed.

These symptoms can manifest themselves in houses with an incorrectly installed layered rafter system, where the walls, gables, and most importantly, the partitions of the attic floor are made of logs or timber.

The fastening of the rafters to the log house is done incorrectly if the layered rafters, which rest with one end on the log walls and the other on the ridge beam, are rigidly connected to each other. The attic floor will fall apart. The laws of geometry will work: descending together with the ridge beam, resting on the pediments and interior walls, the rafter legs will extend towards the street (their length does not change during shrinkage) and, being rigidly connected to the walls, will pull them along with them. As a result, the external log walls assembled on dowels (they are a relatively movable structure) will bend along their entire height towards the street. And the smaller the angle of inclination of the roof slopes, the greater the arch will be. All this is also dangerous because the floor beams, usually tightly tied to the internal walls, will be pulled out of their nests in the external walls. And if the length of their supporting platform on the wall is less than the amount of movement at the junction, the ceiling may simply collapse.

The described phenomena are possible in houses not only made from rounded logs, but also from ordinary profiled timber with natural humidity, as well as dried in production conditions, but not brought to a moisture content of 18-20%, and, in addition, from laminated veneer lumber (provided that gables and high internal log walls). Under these conditions, another scenario for the behavior of the layered rafter system is possible (though no less sad). The beams can either come loose from the wall or ridge beam, or they can crack and then break.

The right thing to do is to use sliding fasteners for the rafters. In this case, as the log house dries, the rafters, at the point of attachment to the log house, automatically move (move apart). As a result, the pressure of the rafter system on the frame and all the negative consequences caused by such pressure, described above, are eliminated.

The roof of a log house is no less important than the foundation and walls. Modeling and implementing the roof structure of a log house is not an easy task and is beyond the power of home-grown craftsmen, except for small ones. country houses with a simple single-pitch type. Below we describe popular types of rafter systems that make a log object individual. The choice is up to the owner.

There are several types of roofing structures depending on the device, material and purpose:

Straight pitched;
Gable;
Hip;
Half-hip;
Tent;
Forceps and multi-forceps;
Attic;
Combined.

More details about each below.

Straight pitched roof

Frankly speaking, this option is devoid of wisdom. And the appearance leaves much to be desired. It is used mainly in outbuildings and garages. Relies on walls of different heights. Even an amateur can build such an option. Cheap and cheerful.

The most practical option for a log structure. Not too heavy and simple design.

Depending on the size of the object, such roofs of log houses are built using reinforcement along the rafters, mauerlat, ridge girders and gables, assembled on the ground and raised up in finished form. Under such a roof you can arrange a full-fledged attic space for storing items or organize an area for other non-residential purposes.

Typically, the rafter system uses sliding supports - the timber is not tightly attached to the corresponding joints, but using a special device that allows a massive house not to deform the roof during shrinkage. Otherwise, such a system is called a sliding roof of a log house. The measure is invaluable when building a facility from scratch.

By imagining the gables of a simple gable roof at an angle towards its center, the owner receives this option. There are dormer windows. The advantages of this type are wide space inside, absolute resistance to bad weather, strong winds and seismic activity of the soil.

The construction of the roof of a log house of this type is complex and should be left to professionals. As for the appearance, such a roof in combination with beautiful roofing material looks great and gives the impression of a fortress, which it really is.

Half hip roof

An even more labor-intensive option. Interesting for his appearance– the pediments are made in the form of trapezoids and covered with parts of the hips. In this case, the attic space is vast and the side parts of the roof can become the walls of the room.

Perfect alignment of edges at one point. Strongly recommended for buildings that have the correct geometric shapes with equal side lengths.

The advantages of other pitched options are resistance to shrinkage and external climate conditions. This is one of the varieties of hip roofing, which means it will require professional knowledge when installing it.

Gable and multi-gable roofing

In a timber or log house, the roof, as conceived by the designer, can become a work of art. This feature was obtained by gable variants used on objects with complex shapes - polygons, bay windows, projections, turrets.

Covering them with one plane is too problematic and sometimes impossible. The design of the rafters does not yield to forces home handyman, not having basic knowledge about the features of construction.

Mansard roof

The most practical roof and attic design. Otherwise, such options are called - log house with a sloping roof. Practicality lies in saving material - solid logs - for building a house, with the opportunity to obtain additional living space.

Combined roofs

The different styles used in the construction of a log house must be covered with special roofs that combine all of the above types. So that this does not look dissonant, such a rafter system is determined at the design and computer modeling stage.

In principle, it will not be possible to make such a roof on your own due to damage and excessive consumption of material. People who choose this type of roof anticipate spending or increasing their budget in advance.

How to make a roof on a log house yourself

If for some reason the owners cannot use the services of professionals, and have chosen a simple version of the system, then it is still worth trying to do the work yourself - you cannot leave a log house without a roof for a long time. So, a simple gable system:

For rafters, timber with a cross section of at least 150 mm is used. Accompanying elements can have more modest parameters, but load-bearing ones - never.
The upper crown is removed and a mauerlat is installed in its place - a lower strapping beam.
The finished rafter legs, cut at an angle for connection, are attached to sliding supports and to each other, if a ridge run is not used. They should extend beyond the crowns by 20–25 cm.
The pediments are assembled on the ground and raised into place in the form of shields.
The sheathing for the insulation insert is filled, thermal and waterproofing is installed.
Roofing line. It is offered to private homeowners in numerous versions - soft, ceramic, metal. It all depends on the goal, choice and purchasing power client.