What are lean-to greenhouses? Do-it-yourself wall-mounted greenhouse with a pitched roof. Construction of a greenhouse with a pitched roof.

A lean-to greenhouse is a permanent structure with load-bearing trusses and fencing made of glass or other material. Another option is a frame structure made of slats, which is covered with a polyethylene film. The period of operation of the latter is not long, but its construction will require spending small quantity cash. Today, most often the designs of capital greenhouses are personal plots found in the form of free-standing structures.

Figure 1. Scheme of a lean-to greenhouse.

However, with all their advantages, they also have disadvantages:

1. Inconvenient approach to the greenhouse in winter.
2. The high cost of materials that will be needed for construction work.

Such disadvantages can be minimized by constructing a wall-mounted greenhouse.

More information about the sewerage system can be found on the website 1pokanalizacii.ru.

Greenhouses with a pitched roof

In most cases, such structures are built as extensions to the walls of private houses, outbuildings and specially erected structures. The ramp is placed at a specific angle. The angle must be chosen based on the climatic characteristics of the region. The supporting element of such a roof is a semi-truss, which is covered with a film of polyethylene, glass or polycarbonate. In most cases, an ordinary roof with one slope for a greenhouse has a width of 3.5-4.5 m. The length will depend on the size of the wall to which the structure is attached. The height of the side wall of the greenhouse is most often 1-1.8 m. In this case, everything will depend on what plants are planned to be grown in the building being built. The diagram of a lean-to greenhouse made of wood is shown in Fig. 1.

Semi-trusses for greenhouses made of wood are made from edged boards of the following sizes: width - 80-110 mm, thickness - 45-50 mm. Next you need to calculate the truss or find finished project. Based on the data obtained, the optimal installation pitch for the slats is 2.2-2.7 m. Before making the structure, the boards must be treated with an antiseptic. In several places in the upper part of the semi-truss it will be necessary to attach ties with a cross section of 100x50 mm. In the future, sprocket bars will be attached to these elements. The installation step for the latter is 45-50 cm. To make a sprocket, you need to take a beam from coniferous trees. There should be no knots on the slats. The cross section of the elements is 75x50 mm. Shpros with a cross section of 45x35 mm will need to be nailed to the end parts of the greenhouse. These elements are not allowed to be connected along their length, since in this case it will be very difficult to protect their joints from rainwater.

The stability of the structure being manufactured will depend on the quality of fixation of the side wall and roof slope. In the place where the walls and the slope connect, you will need to prepare diamond-shaped grooves. The depth of the grooves is 1 cm. The base of the semi-trusses must be installed between several anchors, which are subsequently concreted into the base.

Return to contents

Single-pitched frame greenhouses

In buildings of this type, the supporting element of the middle row of beams will be a tie and a stand, which is nailed to the supporting wall. The vertical side wall of the greenhouse can be made of profiled timber. The elements are fastened with frames or racks of identical sizes. The frame structure of the greenhouse can be made from bars with sides of 7.5 cm.

In order to be able to plant plants, you will need to make shelves from boards approximately 30-40 mm thick. The side walls of the shelves should have a height of 0.2-0.3 m. The shelves should be supported by racks and ties. The seedlings are grown on a special shelf, which is suspended from the ties using steel holders. In this way, you can fully utilize the volume of the structure being manufactured.

Return to contents

Wall-mounted single-slope greenhouse

At the wall of a private house, which is directed to the south, you can install a lean-to greenhouse, which is called a wall greenhouse. By design, it is ½ greenhouse with a gable roof. Such a building is reliably protected by the wall of a private house on the north side from bad weather conditions. If you plan to grow plants in a greenhouse that require different lighting levels, then the greenhouse should be installed in the direction from east to west. In this case, the illumination of the south side will be different from the north.

In the event of constant strong wind, due to air exchange in the greenhouse, the thermal regime will be disrupted. Therefore, the required air temperature should be maintained. This may lead to additional expenses electrical energy. Air exchange is extremely necessary for grown plants; it should not be allowed to be dependent on the wind, which blows only at a certain point in time. To do this, it is recommended to use natural remedies.

Direct communication with a private home is a great advantage, as it becomes possible to comfortably maintain the greenhouse. However, the winter garden can be used without resorting to direct communication with the owner’s building. Unlike the walls of a house, lightweight building materials are not able to absorb heat at such a level as to release it if the temperature drops. Water, heat and energy supply for wall-mounted construction is much cheaper, which is an additional advantage.

In the summer, such a structure will need to be shaded and often ventilated.

Return to contents

Sequence of actions for making a greenhouse

Items needed:

• cement;
• crushed stone;
• sand;
• water;
• reinforcing mesh;
• steel profile pipes;
• racks;
• shovel;
• welding device;
• perforator;
• self-tapping screws;
• nuts;
• washers;
• bolts.

The process of constructing a wall structure can be divided into the following stages:

1. Earthworks.
2. Construction of the foundation.
3. Assembly of a frame structure from steel profile pipes.
4. Construction of a pitched roof.
5. Installation of internal shelving.
6. Installation of an automatic watering system.

Before carrying out excavation work, you need to decide where the building will be located. As stated earlier, the best option is the southern wall of a private house.

You will need to mark the base and dig a trench for pouring concrete. The optimal trench depth is approximately 45-50 cm. The width of the base in most cases is 2.5 m. The width of the trenches is 20-30 cm. You can dig a trench with your own hands, there is no need to use expensive equipment.

Then the concrete solution is poured to a level 10-20 cm above the ground level. It is recommended to fix the support tubes of the greenhouse frame structure in concrete at this stage.

For the convenience of concreting the tubes, you will need to drive them 12-15 cm into the ground, set them plumb and weld them to the installed mesh.

The optimal height of the outer edge of the building is 2 m. The cross-section of the support columns should be 40x40 mm, the end columns should be 20x40 mm. The wide elements of the end tubes should be oriented parallel to the base. The element installation step is 60 cm.

A greenhouse or greenhouse is most often placed on the site as a separate structure, although such a layout takes up much more space.

A wall-mounted greenhouse is installed near the heated stone wall of the room; a prerequisite for installation is the sunny side. Subject to these conditions, adjacent to the wall residential building, allows you to reduce construction costs and make more efficient use of the adjacent space.

In order to retain heat as much as possible, trench-type greenhouses are most often built - when only a transparent roof and end windows are visible above the ground. A pitched roof is preferable, since this shape does not interfere with the free flow of precipitation, which affects the illumination for the better.

The size of such a greenhouse can vary, depending on the length of the wall and the type of heater, as well as the availability building materials. For construction you will need:

• pillars: 4 pcs. with a diameter of at least 20 cm and a height of 3-3.5 m and 2 pcs. 10 cm in diameter and 2 m in height;
• beds 1.5 cm thick - 2 pcs;
• crossbars 12 cm in diameter;
• bars 12 cm thick;
• bricks;
• boards;
• glass 3-4 cm thick.

Carrying out preparatory and initial work

For construction, you will need to take measurements of the future structure and mark the pit and walls. Pegs are driven into the corners of the marking lines, and a rope is stretched between them.

They start by clearing the area and digging a pit with steep walls. At the same time, a pit for the vestibule is dug out from the eastern side, its length is about 1 m, width - about 0.8 m. The pit should not completely repeat the size of the greenhouse, the calculation is made according to the following scheme: if the total size of the greenhouse is assumed to be 22 sq.m, then a pit is dug 10 m long, 2.25 m wide and 1.1 m deep. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of fine gravel no less than 10 cm in height. The gravel is then covered with a cement mortar.

The frame is made on 4 pillars, which are installed in holes at a distance of 3.3 m from each other. The width of the holes depends on the type of soil and the degree of heaving. The walls of the pits should also be vertical; a small amount of cement mortar is placed on the bottom. When the solution hardens, place 2 bricks lengthwise and 2 across them on the bottom - this is the foundation for the pillars. To prevent rotting, before installation, the lower ends of the pillars are slightly burned or treated with melted resin.

Since the greenhouse has a pitched roof, the pillars are installed close to the wall and secured in 2-3 places with construction staples. After this, small crushed stone is poured into the hole, cement mortar is poured on top, after hardening, the foundation of the pillars can be disguised with turf and compacted.

The upper beam is placed on the pillars from above, and the lower one, together with the crossbars, is placed on bricks laid along the edge of the pit in one row. The bricks must be held together with mortar; the same mortar can be used to caulk the cracks between the wall of the house and the floor. The upper bed, like the pillars, is fixed close to the wall using brackets.

Then the upper and lower beds are fastened together by slope bars cut into them. Between the slopes, at a distance of about half a meter, 5 crossbars are inserted, which are subsequently cut off from the sides on the inside to reduce shading.

Return to contents

Construction of a greenhouse

The door frame for entering the greenhouse is made together with the frame, the first post serves as the jamb. For the second jamb, a post is installed under a slope 2 m long, buried 0.4 m into the soil. Both jambs are connected from below by a threshold and from above by a jamb.

A groove for the door is knocked out in the manufactured door frame, taking into account that it should open outward. The door must be made of boards at least 5 cm thick. If there are any cracks, they are caulked, and the door is covered with felt.

To better retain heat and protect greenhouses from wind, snow and rain, wall-mounted greenhouses are equipped with a vestibule.

To descend into the pit, earthen steps are made, on which boards are placed immediately after manufacture to protect against crumbling. In the pit, at a distance of approximately 0.8 m from the door jambs, 2 more pillars are installed opposite them, deepening them by 0.4 m.

On 3 sides, strappings of bars or poles are placed on the edges of the pit.

The pillars are connected to each other by jambs and crossbars with piping slopes. The ceiling of the vestibule can be made of boards or slabs, and covered on top with a roofing felt shield. The walls are also covered with boards and covered with earth on top. The door is made and sheathed similarly to greenhouse doors.

Grooves 1.2 cm wide are made in the upper bed, grooves and slopes for installing glass. The groove is not cut in the lower part.

The width of the glass should be 50 cm. With this size, the glass does not touch the wall of the groove closely and will not crack if the wood swells. If smaller glass is used for greenhouses, an increase in the number of interlocks will be required.

Greenhouses begin to be glazed from the bottom. Before laying, the grooves are coated with a special liquid putty with a layer of at least 1-2 mm. The first glass is laid on the bed so that it protrudes slightly, and all subsequent ones are laid so that the top glass overlaps the bottom by 1.5-2 cm, which will ensure good water drainage.

The greenhouse glass is secured with wire pins; preference is given to stainless steel.

The only place suitable for installing a wall-mounted greenhouse is south wall of the house. When placed near walls facing other directions, plants will not be able to receive sufficient quantity solar energy all day long. In addition, a shaded greenhouse will not have time to warm up to the required temperature.

IMPORTANT
It is unacceptable to place a wall-mounted greenhouse near insufficiently strong structures. It creates a certain load on the wall, and if it is not made of brick or stone, the entire building may be destroyed.

Fig.1 Placement of wall-mounted greenhouse

In close proximity to the greenhouse there should be no trees or tall bushes. Their crowns will create unacceptable shading. It's the same rule also applies to climbing plants, capable of weaving the entire structure and blocking sunlight.

Preparatory work

Before you attach a greenhouse to your house with your own hands, you need to do some preparatory work, descriptions and photos of which are presented in this chapter. Important preparatory stage are developed drawings, according to which the future lean-to greenhouse will be built. The drawing must indicate the dimensions of the structure, including its length and height. Both of these dimensions should not exceed the dimensions of that house, to which it is planned to attach a greenhouse.

IMPORTANT
Deciding on overall dimensions greenhouses, you should take into account the characteristics of the crops that are planned to be grown in it. Tall and climbing crops require more space. Respectively, the height of the greenhouse should provide some free space.

Also, before starting construction, you should take care of preparing the foundation. Most often used for such purposes shallow strip foundations . The sequence of actions for arranging a foundation of this type will be as follows:

1. Digging around the perimeter of the future greenhouse trench 40-50 cm deep. Width – 25-30 cm.
2. From boards, fiberboard or chipboard sheets formwork is being installed.
3. Placed in the trench reinforcing mesh to strengthen the structure.
4. Installed support pillars.
5. Poured concrete mortar.

Fig.2 Preparation of a shallow strip foundation

After 5-7 days the solution will harden completely and you can begin further work.

DIY wall greenhouse: assembly instructions

The actual assembly of the greenhouse consists of several stages.

Cheaper option organizing the entrance - hanging the canvas made of dense polyethylene. In this case, the dimensions of the sheet must exceed the dimensions of the entrance by 40-50 cm both laterally and vertically. A supply of film will be required to close the opening more tightly.

Fig.5 Ready-made wall-mounted greenhouse attached to the house with your own hands - photo

Upon completion of all work it is necessary to carry out complete sealing of the resulting structure. If even small gaps remain, the greenhouse will not be able to reliably retain heat and the plants may die if it freezes.

Can be used as a sealant silicone based sealants. Roofing bitumen sealant will also work.

IMPORTANT
When installing a wall-mounted greenhouse, you should understand that the air inside it will have high humidity. This may negatively affect the condition of the wall, near which a greenhouse is installed. Therefore, it will not be superfluous to disassemble it in the hot summer months to dry the wall. There is not much point in removing the frame, it is quite enough remove the greenhouse walls.

The option with a wall greenhouse is interesting because it The design is very easy to assemble. The main load in it is transferred to the solid wall of the house, which allows the use less durable frame. In addition, next to the wall the greenhouse becomes wind protection, which avoids cooling in windy weather. At the same time, assembly does not cause difficulties even if you have only basic skills in construction work.

A greenhouse with a gable or pitched roof is a necessary structure on any summer cottage. This model will allow the summer resident to grow a large number of heat-loving crops. In this article we will talk about how to build a high-quality and reliable greenhouse with your own hands.

Before we figure out how to make polycarbonate lean-to greenhouses with our own hands, let's talk about their advantages and disadvantages. Let's start with the positives.

• Compactness. A wall-mounted lean-to greenhouse will not take up much space, but on the contrary, will allow you to make good use of the local area.
• A simple start. Such a greenhouse will not be large, which means that only a few plants will fit in it, and it will be easier for you to care for them. A lean-to greenhouse is great for a beginner.
• Easy to find application. When you build a large greenhouse, a small greenhouse near the wall will also not be idle, because you can grow seedlings in it.
• Minimum costs. A do-it-yourself greenhouse with a pitched roof can be made simply and at the lowest cost in terms of building materials and strength.
• Reliable construction. The wall greenhouse rests on external wall Houses.
• Heating. The wall-mounted greenhouse will be partially heated by heat that will penetrate through the wall from the house. And if you build a greenhouse on the south side, it will be less exposed to frost.

It is impossible not to mention the disadvantages of a lean-to greenhouse. First of all, it is very small. Also some experienced gardeners They believe that such a greenhouse rarely has enough sunlight. Another disadvantage is that the construction of the greenhouse will be carried out next to the house; there is always the possibility of inadvertently damaging communications.

Video “Greenhouse with your own hands”

From this video you will learn how to build a high-quality greenhouse yourself.

Advantages and disadvantages of gable greenhouses

Now let's talk a little about greenhouses with a gable roof. The advantages of greenhouses of this type are considered:

• the ability to easily build with your own hands;
• snow does not linger on the roof, which avoids damage to the roof;
• windows are simply installed;
• large selection of coating materials.

Now let's discuss the disadvantages of a greenhouse with a gable roof.

• in most cases a solid foundation is required;
• the design is difficult to expand during operation;
• many fastening parts.

However, as you have noticed, the advantages completely justify all the disadvantages, especially if you want to build a truly reliable and durable greenhouse.

Frame materials

It doesn’t matter whether you decide to build a wall-mounted greenhouse with a pitched roof with your own hands or a full-fledged gable greenhouse, you need to decide on the material for the frame. Usually three materials are used: plastic, wood or galvanized metal (profiles). Wood is probably considered the worst material today due to the fact that it is too susceptible to negative influence environment. Metal profiles or plastic profiles are what a modern gardener should choose.

Choice of coverage

The coating should transmit sunlight well and at the same time retain heat inside the greenhouse. The most advantageous covering material is polycarbonate. Its construction is durable, but at the same time easy time. The cost is reasonable, especially when compared with glass.

True, the latter coating has the highest light transmission capacity. But this material is fragile and heavy. Glass greenhouses are usually made by those who have old window frames left over. Polyethylene film is used for summer greenhouses. This coating is cheap, but it will have to be changed annually.

How to make a project

Single-pitch

Before you start construction work, you need to think through the project of how you will build a greenhouse with a pitched roof. It should contain the following items:

• choosing a location for construction;
• design choice;
• greenhouse size;
• necessary materials.

When choosing a location, give preference to the south side of the house; if this is not possible, then choose the east side. Decide on the design - it will be a winter or summer greenhouse. After all, the structure itself is decomposed into several more elements: foundation, frame, rafters, cladding, etc.

When making a drawing, think about the dimensions in advance. The length and width of your greenhouse will depend on what and how many crops you want to grow in it and, of course, on the amount of material. Note that the height of a wall-mounted greenhouse is limited by the height of the wall to which it will adjoin. When choosing materials, base your choice on your budget and the expectations you have for your greenhouse.

Gable

Now let's talk about what data we need to draw a greenhouse with a polycarbonate house with a gable roof. Optimal dimensions for future construction: length – 5–7 m, width – 2.5–3 m, height at the ridge – 2.5 m. It is good if the greenhouse extends from west to east. If your summer cottage has a building for storing garden tools, install a greenhouse somewhere nearby.

Foundation installation

A gable greenhouse requires columnar foundation. The diameter of the columns should be 12 cm and the length should be 3 meters. You only need 6 of these posts, which are dug into the ground to a depth of half a meter. Four piles are installed at the corners of the future rectangular structure, and two in the center. After which the supports are filled with concrete.

Frame and sheathing

A greenhouse with a heavy gable roof must be durable, so you need to take care of its frame. In fact, the foundation columns are the main part of the frame, to which horizontal beams are attached, and rafters are installed on top, which will be the basis for laying the roof. When building the frame with your own hands, do not forget to provide places for windows and doors.

If the frame is completely erected, you can begin to cover it. Since the most successful coating is polycarbonate, we will talk in more detail about the installation of this material. The covering is attached using self-tapping screws, and rubber gaskets are also used. You need to install the sheet with the protective layer facing outward; the factory markings will help you decide on the sides.

It is better to stretch the film in one piece. But for installing glass in each opening, quarter grooves are chosen.

Good afternoon Please tell us about what lean-to greenhouses are. I am a beginner gardener. Just recently I decided to set up a greenhouse on the property in order to be able to grow early vegetables and serve them to the family table. Instead of the classic version, I was advised to have a modification with one large ramp. Is it advisable to build such a structure?

In most cases, such versions are built close to the wall of a residential building. The object should be oriented strictly south. Most often, such greenhouses are glazed or lined with polycarbonate sheets (polyethylene film is used extremely rarely).

In addition, you can connect heating devices to the greenhouse. Plants inside are not afraid of the coldest weather.

Speaking about the disadvantages, it should be noted that wall structures with pitched roof suffer from low light. As soon as the sun turns the corner of the house, the building immediately begins to plunge into darkness. The lack of natural lighting must be compensated by equipping the greenhouse with additional light sources.

If it is not possible to build a greenhouse next to the house, then you can use a natural elevation as a support - a hill, a steep natural slope. Here the soil surface is covered with blocks of moisture-resistant bricks or wood.

The range of lean-to greenhouses is divided into two types:

1. Ground. These modifications are best used in the autumn-summer period. For such structures it is necessary to first build a foundation.
2. In-depth. Such heifers are installed in a special pit. The finished pit is pre-equipped.

Each summer resident creates the interior of the greenhouse based on his preferences. Many gardeners opt for the shelving option. In this way, space and area are used as rationally as possible.

When choosing a greenhouse, a summer resident will have to take into account the following circumstances:

• free space is needed on the territory of the dacha plot;
• it is necessary to plan the site;
• need to free up space on the south side country house(if you plan to create a wall-mounted greenhouse);
• It is advisable to decide in advance on the dimensions and shape of the project; it would be useful to think about the organization of the internal space.

The construction of separate buildings will be of interest to those summer residents who breed and grow light-loving crops. As a rule, the latter painfully tolerate darkness and lack of light.

Typically, the construction of a typical lean-to greenhouse requires durable aluminum profile and polycarbonate coating.

Related posts:

No similar entries found.