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Thickness of expanded polystyrene for insulating the base. How to insulate a base with extruded polystyrene foam

The base of the house is the upper part of the strip base, which protrudes above the ground surface. If the base is columnar, then this term refers to walls located above or between the pillars. The basement is considered one of the most problematic areas of any structure. The explanation for this lies in the high loads that the base constantly experiences due to mechanical stress and precipitation. To neutralize these impacts, various construction measures are carried out, one of which is insulating the base with polystyrene foam. However, it is only one of many components of a complex process, the high-quality implementation of which is impossible without finishing the basement area.

Correct and competent arrangement of the basement includes its insulation.

Finishing the basement of the house

Insulating the basement of a house with polystyrene foam and arranging the final layer are completely different jobs. However, in most cases, these works are carried out comprehensively, which is why they are considered in a single context. You can often find recommendations for insulating the base, which describe the technology of thermal insulation using polystyrene foam. The fact is that polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam are practically the same thing. The differences are not very significant to be considered and taken into account. Therefore, the technology for insulating the basement of a house is similar when working with these two insulation materials.

It is not recommended to finish basement areas using sand-lime bricks or ceramic tiles. As a result of exposure to low temperatures, the glaze that covers the slab elements may simply break off in winter. As for sand-lime brick, chips most often appear in the area of the first rows due to the same low temperatures.

Foam plastic is not resistant to constant exposure ultraviolet radiation(sunlight), so if you decide to insulate the basement of your house with foam plastic, be sure to put a layer of plaster on top of it.

The most reliable and high-quality, but at the same time quite expensive, option is to cover the base with wild stone. This material It costs a lot not only because of the cost of the products themselves. If the base is finished with stone, then the rest of the structure will also have to be covered with appropriate materials. Otherwise, she will simply look ridiculous.

Quite often they use ordinary or decorative plaster. If necessary, she is sufficiently short terms is restored, regardless of the variety. The cost of plaster is quite reasonable, which reduces the financial costs of cladding the entire structure. In addition, it is easier to select materials for plaster.

Insulating the basement of a house with polystyrene foam: cheap and reliable

Next, we will consider the insulation of the basement of a private house with polystyrene foam, since this material is currently used almost everywhere. In addition, foam plastic makes it possible to quickly and easily make any basement area protruding through the use of the slabs themselves. The final design will give the house a normal appearance and provide high-quality protection for the lower area of the external wall structure from moisture.

If the waterproofing is done by pasting or coating, then no preparatory work no need to do this, the surface is almost ready for thermal insulation work.

As an example, we will consider the base of a private house in a single plane with the external walls. For exterior finishing you need to use paint specially designed for this purpose. To insulate the base of your house with polystyrene foam yourself, prepare the following materials and tools:

Foam plastic with a density of at least 25 kg/cub.m. You will have to decide on the thickness of the slabs yourself: of course, the thicker the material, the better the insulation will be, however, on the other hand, the more noticeable it will protrude. It is not recommended for the base section to protrude more than 4 cm. It is more convenient and efficient to use 1x1 m sheets.
Fasteners for foam plastic boards are plastic dowels with a cap.
Installation adhesive for insulation - you can use ordinary adhesive cement used when working with ceramic tiles.
Reinforced putty mesh. Use a mesh with cells measuring 2.5x2.5 mm, or a little larger.
Plaster or putty for external finishing work is cement-based; acrylic cannot be used in this case.
Priming deep penetration.
Facade paint in a color that suits you.
Sloping corner, the quantity of which is calculated based on the length of the base itself.
Breaker knife for cutting foam boards.
A flat strip 1 m long, or a rule and a marker, or a pencil for marking foam.
Spirit level, preferably a laser level.
Wallpaper knife for cutting material.
Spatulas of various sizes for putty.
Hammer.
Brushes and roller for painting and priming.
Notched trowel. Tooth size is 8-10 mm.
Impact drill or hammer drill.

Once all the necessary materials and tools for work have been prepared, you can proceed directly to the insulation process itself.

Insulating the basement of a house with polystyrene foam: operating procedure

Installation of foam plastic should be done on a clean surface.

It is necessary that the foam plastic slightly overlaps the waterproofing material, which is why it will be necessary to make the future base 2-3 cm higher. Therefore, draw a strictly horizontal line along the wall or pull the string slightly above the waterproofing. The resulting line will be the boundary of the future base. You can go a little deeper down, making a groove about 5 cm deep in order to slightly recess the material used for insulation.

The surface for insulation must be cleaned of dirt and dust and primed with deep penetration soil. Only after the soil has dried can you continue insulating the basement.

Strengthening foam boards is carried out using special adhesives and starts from the corner areas. Mark and cut a few pieces that will be useful to you in the future. For cutting, you can use a wallpaper knife or any other sharp knife.
The adhesive solution is applied to the base area under insulation using a notched spatula. Coat an area of a certain size and attach previously cut products to the desired areas. The ends and joints between the plates must be smeared with the adhesive solution especially carefully.

After a couple of plates have been glued, they begin doweling using elements specially designed for this work. Their use allows for additional fixation. A hammer drill is required to drill holes.

Using the above technology, the entire basement surface is insulated with foam plastic. At the very end, a primer layer is applied again. Used to create the base of future layers.

The next step is the installation of a sloped metal corner. To secure it, the previously used adhesive for slabs is suitable. Mounting points are the corner areas of the house, the upper perimeter part.

The reinforcing mesh, like the metal corner, is glued to the insulation. This time straight from the top. Before starting this work, the product is cut in accordance with the dimensions of the foam plates. After preparation required quantity elements, the surface of the future thermal insulation system should be covered with glue. A wide spatula is used as a leveling tool. As a result, the reinforcing mesh is placed on top of the products and leveled with a spatula.

The plinth can be puttied only with materials intended for outdoor work. The composition is applied using a wide spatula. After the composition has dried, the surface is primed again, after which paint is applied.

At this point you can finish the insulation and decoration of the base, but it would not be superfluous to mount the drip linings. Thanks to this, you will protect your home from various damages that may occur as a result of exposure to climatic factors.

In accordance with the technology described above, it is possible to insulate the protruding base by choosing foam plastic with a thickness of no more than 20 mm.

The owner of the house is invariably faced with the need to insulate the basement. After all, this part of the foundation is in contact with both the floors and the soil, which helps lower the temperature in the room, cause dampness and worsen the microclimate. The activity of insulating the base with extruded polystyrene foam can be carried out both when laying the foundation and in the room being used. Thermal insulation will help reduce heat loss, as well as protect the foundation from the effects of temperature changes and maintain its strength.

Analysis of material for work

The choice of materials for thermal insulation of the foundation of a house is quite narrow. This is due to the fact that the base of the building is exposed to precipitation and the materials used to insulate it must be waterproof and not lose their qualities in a humid environment.
Fiber insulation has significant moisture absorption, which leads to loss of heat-insulating properties. Cellular foam insulation, such as polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene, copes well with this task.

Scheme of insulating the structure with extruded polystyrene foam

Foam plastic. This is the most economical material for external thermal insulation of foundations. It has low thermal conductivity, is inexpensive and prevents moisture absorption. Among the disadvantages of the material is its attractiveness to rodents and flammability. Insulating the base with polystyrene foam is a good choice for saving money.
Extruded polystyrene foam. When insulating the base with extruded polystyrene foam, you should prepare the structures and additionally insulate the surface of the base from water penetration. This is a more suitable option for such work; it is non-flammable and resistant to mechanical damage.

Types of socles

The basement is level with the wall of the house. This is the most unfortunate type of base, since the waterproofing layer in this case is not protected from external influences environment. If the wall panel is not thick enough, condensation on the windows and dampness may occur. In addition, visually such a base is not very beautiful.
Protruding base. It is quite good for a house with a basement. Suitable for buildings with thin wall panels and provides better thermal protection from the outside. To avoid damage to the top decorative layer, such a base should be equipped with ebbs.
Recessed base. It is the most advantageous type of plinth; it is recommended by construction experts. On such a surface it is more convenient to carry out all types of thermal insulation and finishing measures, and it is also easier to hide the waterproofing.

Tools and Supplies

In order to carry out work on thermal insulation of the base with polystyrene foam, you will need the following tools:

solution container;
screwdriver;
spatula and trowel;
buckets;
wheelbarrow and shovel;
brushes or roller;
metal brush;
mounting gun;
hacksaw;
stationery knife.

Consumables required for insulation outside the house:

polystyrene foam boards;
roofing felt;
waterproofing material;
reinforcing tape;
reinforcing mesh;
dowels;
glue for working with polystyrene foam;
bitumen mixture;
putty.

Basement insulation with penoplex

Technology for insulating the base in the same plane as the walls of the house:

Marking. Since the insulation boards should be several centimeters higher than the waterproofing layer, horizontal markings should be made with a pencil along the entire surface of the wall.
Cleaning the outside of the wall. The wall surface is pre-prepared for gluing with polystyrene foam. To do this, it is thoroughly cleaned from the outside of dust and dirt. After this, the surface is primed. After the primer has dried, you can proceed to the next step.
Connecting slabs. Pasting the walls of a house with polystyrene foam is done using special glue, starting from the corner. The slabs are marked and cut with a sharp wallpaper knife.
Applying glue to the wall and slabs. Using a special notched trowel, the adhesive is applied to the surface of the base. Pre-prepared fragments of slabs are smeared with glue and attached to the wall, the joints between the slabs and the ends outside the house are carefully sealed.
Next, using a hammer drill, dowels are drilled and inserted, followed by driving in nails. After covering the entire surface of the outside of the house with slabs, a special primer layer is applied to provide the basis for all subsequent layers.
Strengthening the slope angle. A metal corner is attached around the entire perimeter of the wall. For installation, the same adhesive is used as for the slabs.
Installation of reinforcing mesh. The reinforcing mesh is pre-cut to the size of the slabs, lubricated with adhesive and glued on top of the polystyrene foam. The technology for strengthening the reinforcing mesh is the same as for installing the corner.
Finishing work and installation of drip linings. Materials for external work are used to putty the base area. It is left to dry and primed again followed by painting. To prevent moisture penetration, flashings are installed.

The insulation of the base with penoplex occurs according to the same scheme as polystyrene foam. In terms of their characteristics, these materials are very similar, but the thermal insulation coefficient of penoplex is 50% higher.

If coating defects occur, they can be easily eliminated by re-priming and painting. The technology of thermal insulation with foam plastic is the same as that of penoplex.

Instructions for compliance with thermal insulation rules

It is good to use decorative plaster as a finishing material.

Sometimes owners try to insulate only the walls outside the building, neglecting the basement. This is fundamentally wrong, since an uninsulated base leads to significant heat loss.
When choosing insulation, you should be guided by the climatic conditions of your region of residence. For middle zone CIS insulation is made with expanded polystyrene slabs with a thickness of at least 5 cm. At the corners, the slabs should have a thickness of 6 to 10 cm. Expanded polystyrene slabs with a thickness of 3 to 12 cm are available for sale.
When building a house, it is better to plan a sinking base in order to hide all layers of thermal and waterproofing. Base insulation has great value, the indoor microclimate depends on it, as well as the ability of the structure to withstand the destructive factors of atmospheric influence.
The insulation process is carried out along the wall outside the house. In this case, you should choose a non-aggressive adhesive without solvents. Adhesive containing solvents can destroy the structure of polystyrene and lead to its premature destruction.
Technology construction work requires that they be produced at temperatures above 5 degrees Celsius. This will ensure that with the onset of frost, cracks will not appear on the surface of the wall.
Thermal insulation boards are attached with an overlap, this significantly reduces heat loss.
Installation of thermal insulation boards is carried out using a drill using a metal mesh, connecting the slab, mesh and base into one whole.
The slabs are installed using bitumen mastic, either spotwise or over the entire surface.
Most slab models have a special recess for joining using the locking method without the formation of cold bridges.
Fastening slabs in 2 layers to obtain the required thickness of thermal insulation is not always considered justified. Some experts consider this a mistake, because soil displacements can delaminate the insulating layer, allowing water to penetrate into the structure.
Facade paint, brick, tiles, wild stone or decorative plaster are used as finishing on top of the insulation. But practice has shown that sand-lime brick and tiles are not suitable materials. They can become chipped when exposed to cold.

All these measures will stabilize the temperature in the home, regardless of external fluctuations, protect against drafts and dampness, and protect the foundation from destruction.

The specifics of thermal insulation of the base with foam plastic, the advantages and disadvantages of this technology, surface preparation, algorithm for basic work, finishing.

Contents of the article:

Insulating the base with polystyrene foam is one of the most important measures aimed at creating optimal operating conditions in the building. The service life of the object depends on how reliably it is protected. If the structure is not insulated, you can lose up to 10-15% of heat. Due to freezing of the base, costs associated with the need to improve heating and eliminate dampness and fungus will inevitably increase.

Features of using polystyrene foam when insulating the base

To reduce the impact of negative factors on the base, there are a number of construction and finishing measures, including insulating the base with polystyrene foam. The inherent qualities of the material allow it to store heat and perform good function protection unlike other insulation materials. In addition, it is convenient to use, it cuts well, and the price of this insulator is much lower than others. This is how you can keep the room warm when the thermometer shows minus temperature, and block the flow of cold air into the house.

Another primary factor in insulating the base with polystyrene foam is the aesthetically finished appearance of the building from the outside. By using it, the surface becomes more convex and voluminous, which means that the architectural structure acquires its uniqueness and originality.

The technology of insulating the base with polystyrene foam can be used both inside the building and, if necessary, for external work. Any of these methods allows you to:

Improve the temperature in the house;
Protect the building from all possible sources of moisture;
Protect the lower part of the building from condensation penetration, preserving the material and extending its durability.

Insulation inside and outside a building has the same goal. These methods differ only in end result: When laying polystyrene foam on the outside, additional finishing is performed, which makes the structure even more attractive. It is also important to note that it is not worth carrying out two types of insulation at the same time. But it is necessary to protect the basement floor, even if it is not in use.

Advantages and disadvantages of thermal insulation of the base with foam plastic

Like any other insulating material, polystyrene foam, when used for a base, has strengths and weaknesses.

The advantages of such a heat insulator include:

Low thermal conductivity;
Ease of installation and cutting;
Immunity of the material to rodents, fungus, rot and mold;
Low cost, making it accessible to consumers.

Disadvantages of insulation:

Subject to moisture absorption. To avoid this, when laying a heat insulator, it is necessary to carry out waterproofing work using modern insulators. For these purposes, materials are used in rolls or on a bitumen-polymer basis.
Low strength. In order to preserve the properties of the insulator for a long time, a brick wall is installed to perform protective functions against soil pressure, or special profiled polyethylene membranes are used.
Subject to mechanical damage. Therefore, the installation of reinforced mesh is required.

Technology of base insulation with polystyrene foam

Following the technology of using polystyrene foam, all insulation work must be carried out only at above-zero temperatures. This is one of the conditions for ensuring high quality of work performed. When purchasing assembly adhesive, you need to make sure that it does not contain any solvents (gasoline, acetone), which lead to the destruction of the inner surface of the material and, accordingly, the loss of its thermal insulation properties. Following these recommendations, you can, even without a construction education, insulate the base with foam plastic with your own hands.

Preparatory work

First, mark the installation level of the foam plates. Typically, each house has a waterproofing layer (roofing felt), which is covered with thermal insulation slabs 2-3 cm above the roofing felt. The master applies markings on all sides of the house using a level, cord, or marker. He will lay the insulation along this line.

In addition to the indicated markings, a small groove is dug around the house close to the wall, to a depth of 6-7 cm. The lower side of the insulator will go into this recess.

The next stage of the process is preparing the base and cleaning it from various contaminants. These works are carried out using the simplest tools - an ordinary brush and a spatula.

Tools for installation of slabs: cord, level, marker, corner for arranging slopes, knife, hammer, spatulas, hammer drill, brushes, rollers, work bucket.

Materials used for insulating the base: polystyrene foam with a density of at least 25 kg/m3, putty, primer, mounting adhesive, reinforced mesh, facade paint, decorative bark beetle putty, brick, cement, sand, water.

Installation instructions for foam plastic

As soon as the surface is prepared, you can begin to carry out thermal insulation work. To do this, follow the instructions below:

When the debris is removed, all cracks and potholes are filled with putty, in other words, the wall is leveled. In this case, special plaster for walls is used. The solution is prepared according to the instructions. The prepared mixture is applied with a spatula. Next, you need to find out the curvature of the surface to be insulated. Take a level that is installed against the wall and determine the discrepancy between the upper and lower contact points.
It is not necessary to eliminate irregularities less than 1 cm; if large differences are detected, plaster is applied to the surface along the beacons. The following work can be done when the base is completely dry. If it is not completely leveled, the procedure must be repeated when the first layer has dried. In order to better connect the materials, a primer is applied to the surface using a brush.
The next stage is attaching the reinforcing mesh to the base; it is fixed with staples using a construction stapler, or glue is applied to the surface of the mesh and it is embedded in it. To begin with, the mesh is cut into pieces to dimensions that must correspond to the height of the base. It must be placed in such a way that approximately 10-12 cm remains under the insulation. After installing the insulator, it is wrapped and attached to the slab. During the final finishing, this bend is attached to the main reinforcing mesh.
Next, you need to make a mixture of glue; it is best to use a special mixer or drill with an appropriate attachment for these purposes, since it will not be possible to stir the solution evenly by hand. To apply the glue, two spatulas are used: regular and notched. Regular glue is applied to the surface of the insulation, and serrated glue is used to level it along the base. When the adhesive mixture is poured onto the slab, the central part and edges are covered with a large layer. If the surface was initially smooth and was not leveled, then glue can be used to level it to a certain extent by filling cracks and small potholes.
Along with gluing the slabs, installation using disc-shaped dowels-nails is also used. This fastening method is used when installing large slabs on a plinth, for example, 125x60 cm or more. In this case, they take dowels with thermal heads, with rods in a plastic shell. Here the waterproofing layer may be damaged when holes are drilled for attaching dowels. It is important to minimize such risks.
The slabs, cut to the required size, are attached to the base with mounting adhesive. To ensure a high-quality connection, a wooden block is used, which can be tapped with a wooden hammer. If the layer of insulation slabs exceeds one row in height, then installation and fastening work begins from the bottom row, and in addition, from any corner of the house. In this case, they are fixed so that T-shaped joints are formed.
After gluing every 2-3 slabs, you need to seal the seams with the same glue. A similar operation should be performed on the ends. The bottom layer of slabs must be rested against a solid base, for example, the foundation of a building, or a sand and gravel backfill, which will allow the sheet not to move off the base before the glue sets securely.
1-2 days after the glue has dried, each glued batch of slabs is secured using disc-shaped dowels-nails. Each sheet must be secured with 5 dowels, in the central part and in the corners. It is recommended to make a hole in the foam sheets in advance; the dowels are buried into the material to a depth of 2 mm.
Before reinforcing the wall, all potholes left after driving nails are repaired. It is also necessary to remove all the slightest irregularities on them, using a paint float for this. The fold of the mesh, approximately 10 cm in size, is attached to the foam with glue.
After fixing the slabs, it may be necessary to once again prime the insulated part of the structure in those places where, when attaching the insulation, individual small irregularities formed.
After priming is completed, reinforcement is performed. For these purposes you will need a special putty. Work must begin from the corners of the base: the technology will be the same as when attaching the insulation. We cut the mesh to the required length. Reinforcing putty is applied to the heat insulator with a spatula, with a thickness not exceeding 2-3 mm. Press the mesh to the plate and uniform movements up and down we level the entire surface. The next sheet should overlap the previous one by about 10 cm. The mesh is covered with plaster on top. The use of fiberglass mesh allows you to make the surface smooth, prevents the appearance of cracks and various defects of the base. Using this method, the entire base is insulated.
After all this work is completed, new facing material is laid or the surface is plastered.

In order to protect the projections of the base from precipitation, it is necessary to install appropriate flashings. They protect the insulation from moisture penetration, protect the slabs from getting wet and, accordingly, preserve the thermal insulation properties of the material.

Finishing the base

This type of processing will give the surface a modern appearance, will also perform protective functions, preventing the destruction of the thermal insulation layer. Two types of finishing are offered: decorative plaster and laying brick or natural stone.

Decorative plaster is used for work both inside and outside the building. The retail chain offers a wide range of such materials; there are substances of various colors, as well as mixtures that can be dyed. This finishing material is quite expensive, but its cost is justified, it lasts a long time, and the facade looks aesthetically beautiful.

The plaster is applied in the same way as plaster to level the walls before strengthening the foam. Using a level, you need to check whether the surface is flat or not. An appropriate primer is applied to the foam board; you can use a well-proven primer from the Contact-plus series.

When the primer has dried, decorative plaster is applied. It is applied with a metal spatula, then leveled with a grater, making circular or up-and-down movements. The final pattern on the surface depends on the actions taken. To make work easier, it is recommended to moisten the grater with water more often.

After the surface has dried, you need to apply the grater again, using great effort. To avoid unwanted joints, it is worth plastering the entire surface at once, while trying to fill the space from corner to corner. The paint is applied to a completely dry surface; it is preferable to paint it twice.

The next type of finishing is brick cladding. She performs very important function, providing protection to the thermal insulation layer, and gives the base a beautiful appearance. Stepping back from the edge of the heat-insulating layer by 10-20 mm, lay a layer of brick on a solution that consists of one part cement, three parts sand and water, necessary to prepare a homogeneous thick mass.

After laying the first row of bricks, the next one is done with a half-brick bandage. In addition, when 3-4 rows of material are laid, nails with a diameter of 0.5 cm are attached directly to the insulating board. The nail is driven in so that it extends at least 2 cm, and its head with a diameter of 2-3 mm should lie on the brick. This will ensure the coherence and solidity of the insulation and brick cladding.

How to insulate the base with polystyrene foam - watch the video:

This method of insulating the base, when polystyrene foam is used as a heat insulator, is quite effective, relatively inexpensive and is currently widely popular.

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Insulation must be comprehensive, and if the walls are insulated, the roofing system and foundation cannot be ignored. One of the most vulnerable areas is basement part home, through which up to 20% of the heat escapes. It is possible to protect the base from moisture and freezing both at the construction stage and during the operation of the building, the main thing is to choose the right materials for this.

The base is a part of the foundation located above ground level. From below, it is constantly in contact with damp and frozen soil, and the side walls are exposed to precipitation and sudden temperature changes. All this leads to increased heating costs interior spaces, the appearance of dampness and mold in the house, reducing comfort for household members. In addition, the materials from which the base is constructed wear out faster, cracks and crevices form in the walls, and then without overhaul can't get by.

When the basement is insulated, the cold bridges are blocked, the outer walls are protected not only from water and freezing, but also from mechanical damage, the structure lasts longer and does not require repairs.

But this is only the case when the insulation fully meets the following requirements:

minimum thermal conductivity indicators;
zero water absorption;
high compressive strength;
resistance to microorganisms.

Not last value The insulation also has durability, because the longer the service life of the material, the less often it will have to be changed and the base repaired. Regarding the composition of the insulation, especially its environmental safety, then there are no strict requirements here, because the material will be located on the outside of the building, between the layers of waterproofing and decorative coating.

Choosing insulation for the base

Among the wide variety of modern insulation materials, only slab and sprayed polymer-based materials fully meet the above requirements. Let's take a closer look at their characteristics.

Foamed polystyrene (foam plastic) has been used as insulation for a long time, and still does not lose its position. It retains heat excellently, does not accumulate moisture, is easy to cut and is lightweight, which allows installation without special effort. In addition, polystyrene foam has the lowest cost among other polymer insulation materials, and this is a strong argument in its favor when thermally insulating large areas or on a limited budget.

To insulate the base, it is necessary to choose foam plastic of the PSB-S 25 or PSB-S 35 brand, which is characterized by increased density and resistance to mechanical loads. The thickness of the slabs varies between 20-100 mm, and depending on climatic conditions insulation can be laid in 1 or 2 layers. The material can withstand temperature changes from -60°C to +80°C without changing its characteristics, so it is not afraid of the most severe frosts and summer heat. The service life, on average, is 25 years, and with high-quality arrangement of the thermal insulation cake, it is 10 years more.

Despite all the advantages, foam plastic also has disadvantages: it has low bending strength, that is, it is quite fragile and is often damaged by rodents.

In addition, in the absence of waterproofing, moisture penetrates into the upper layers of the material and, freezing, causes the slabs to crumble.

EPPS has a denser structure than polystyrene foam, and its cell size does not exceed 1 mm. This results in almost zero water absorption and greater mechanical strength. Extruded polystyrene foam is also more resistant to chemical attack, microorganisms, and shrinkage deformations. Due to low vapor permeability, this insulation is not recommended for use on wooden surfaces, but it is ideal for thermal insulation of plinths.

EPPS is in high demand, the most popular are insulation brands Penoplex, TechnoNIKOL XPS, Styrofoam, TEPLEX, URSA XPS. They are produced in slabs of various thicknesses and densities, standard sizes are 1200x600 mm and 2400x600 mm. The material can withstand temperatures from -50 to +75°C without loss of characteristics, is easy to install and lasts for about 50 years, provided the installation technology is followed.

The disadvantages include the flammability of the insulation - almost all brands of EPS have flammability classes G3 and G4. When melted, the material releases toxic substances.

Another disadvantage is the high cost. However, properly executed thermal insulation quickly pays for all costs when the heating season begins.

Spray insulation

Polyurethane foam is both heat, sound and waterproofing for a home. It is suitable for insulating all parts of a building, from the roof to the foundation, and has excellent adhesion to all types of foundation. Its main advantage is the absence of seams, since spraying forms a continuous coating that is strong and durable.

The insulation process takes very little time, the material hardens in seconds and you can immediately begin finishing.

The only difficulty is that applying the insulation requires a special installation and skills to work with it. The services of a specialist, as well as the rental of an installation, are not cheap, but if you take into account the durability of such thermal insulation, there are still benefits. A layer of polyurethane foam 50 mm thick with a density of 36 kg/m3 replaces a 120 mm thick EPS layer and lasts at least 50 years.

Video - Insulating the base with polyurethane foam

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation

Insulating the basement part is easy to do yourself, the main thing is to strictly follow the technology. One of the most important conditions is high-quality preparation of the base. If the house is new, the basement and blind area are in good condition, then the work process will not take much time, which cannot be said about old buildings.

The facade of the house before insulation and finishing. In the photo the base does not need preparation

Preparing the base

The work of cleaning the surface from contaminants begins. If the base is finished with tiles or facade panels, the covering will have to be dismantled. They clean off the old plaster, knock down the protrusions and dried mortar, and thoroughly treat the base with a stiff brush.

In a brick plinth, it is necessary to carefully clear the seams to reveal voids.

If the blind area is old, covered with deep cracks, it must also be completely removed, otherwise it will not be possible to properly insulate the base. Next, a layer of soil about half a meter wide and 10-15 cm deep is removed along the perimeter of the house. If the blind area is in good condition and fits tightly to the wall, it is enough to clean the joint along the entire length with a metal brush to remove debris and dirt.

For a tight fit of the slabs to the base, the walls of the base must be as smooth as possible. If there are differences of more than 10 mm, the surface should be leveled by plastering. To do this, you can use a regular cement-sand mortar, but it is better to purchase a dry cement-based mixture.

Factory mixtures are more expensive, but they do not shrink and are more resistant to negative influences. The plaster is applied to the wall with a spatula and carefully distributed over the surface in a thin layer.

Applying repair mortar

After drying, the walls are treated with a float and emery cloth, removed from dust and coated with a waterproof primer with quartz filler.

Tools and materials for work

For insulation you will need:

Construction mixer price

Construction mixer

Calculating the amount of insulation is very simple: you need to measure the length of the base along the entire perimeter, multiply by the height and divide by the area of one foam board. The material should be purchased from small reserve, since it will be necessary to trim the slabs when joining. The amount of reinforcing mesh required when plastering the insulation is calculated in the same way.

Installation of thermal insulation boards

Step 1. Test the slabs against the surface and trim if necessary. The lower edge of the insulation should rest on the concrete base of the blind area or on tightly compacted soil, covered with a layer of sand.

Step 2. Glue is applied to the back side of the first slab in a continuous line around the perimeter and in the middle.

They begin gluing the insulation from the corner: apply the slab to the surface, level it vertically, and press firmly over the entire area.

Step 3. Take the next slab, apply glue to the back and side edges, apply it to the base and fit tightly to the first slab. If glue comes out at the joint, it must be removed with a spatula. The remaining sheets are fastened in the same way, controlling their location with a level.

Advice. If the distance to the corner is slightly greater than the length of the insulation, it is better to fasten the last sheet in the row close to the corner of the base, and close the resulting gap with a piece of the appropriate size. It is undesirable to attach pieces of insulation in corner areas due to increased wind loads.

Step 4. After installing the slabs, blow out polyurethane foam gaps formed between the insulation and the wall, as well as at the joints of the sheets. The dried foam is carefully trimmed with a mounting knife so as not to damage the insulation or move the slabs.

Step 5. When the glue dries (usually it takes from 24 to 48 hours), the insulation is fixed with mushroom dowels.

Prices for popular electric drill models

Electric drills

Unlike the underground part, where the material is firmly pressed by the soil to the foundation, the above-ground part is constantly exposed to wind and mechanical load, and additional fasteners are simply necessary. Holes for dowels are drilled in the center of each sheet and in the corners, going at least 40 mm into the wall. You need to work very carefully, as the insulation is easily damaged by a drill.

Plastering technology

Step 1. Mix the plaster-adhesive solution, diluting the dry mixture with water according to the manufacturer's instructions. It is recommended to mix with a mixer at low speeds, since it is more difficult to achieve homogeneity of the mass by hand.

Step 2. Apply the corner with the mesh to the upper edge of the insulation, measure the required length, and cut off the excess. Next, apply the solution in a continuous strip with a spatula, lay the corner, and be sure to check the horizontal level. Having leveled the profile, smooth the mesh on both sides, sinking it into the solution. Excess mixture is removed with a spatula. In the same way, the profile is attached to the corners - internal and external.

Step 3. The reinforcing mesh is cut in width so that it is a couple of centimeters larger than the height of the base. You don’t have to cut it into pieces along the length, and attach it as a whole sheet on a flat surface - since the width of the roll is small, the mesh holds well. So, apply an adhesive solution to the surface, spread it in an even continuous layer about 10 mm thick, apply a mesh so that the top edge is 5-7 mm below the edge of the insulation. Next, smooth the mesh with a spatula, deepening it into the solution by several millimeters.

The mesh is pressed against the applied glue

It is important to observe the overlap of adjacent paintings

Step 4. A day later, when the surface has dried, the plaster layer is treated with a grater and emery cloth, removing small irregularities, sagging, and tool marks.

Then the surface is dust-free and coated with a waterproof primer in 1 or 2 layers.

After this, the dug trench is filled with fine crushed stone or gravel, and a blind area is installed. The next stage is the finishing of the base: the surface can be covered with tiles, artificial stone, pebbles; mosaic plaster looks good.

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Decorative plaster

Video - How to insulate the basement of a house from the outside

The basement of the building is most vulnerable to the penetration of dampness and cold due to its proximity to the ground. In order to preserve heat in the house as much as possible, you need to take care of its careful thermal insulation. Expanded polystyrene will best cope with this task.

In this article we will analyze in detail how the basement of a house is insulated with polystyrene foam and why, in fact, it is better than other insulation materials.

Polystyrene foam is widely used to reduce the thermal conductivity of not only the base, but also the walls, ceiling and floor of any building. Its availability and ease of processing have been enjoyed by ordinary people for many years. Its highest quality and most durable representative is extruded polystyrene foam.

Now let's take a closer look technical specifications of this material.

Advantages

Very low thermal conductivity coefficient, similar to mineral wool.
Resistant to temperature changes. Retains its performance after thousands of freezing and thawing processes.
Operational life is about fifty years.
Completely waterproof. Its structure consists of homogeneous closed pores that do not allow moisture to get inside.
High strength. Transfers loads of up to thirty-five tons without consequences.

Low price. The synthetic nature of this insulation makes it much cheaper.
Resistance to rotting processes, the spread of mold and the proliferation of fungi.
Noise-absorbing properties. Good isolation from street sounds.
Ease of installation work. Insulating the base with foam plastic with your own hands is not very difficult.
Fire safety. No tendency to catch fire.
Ecological cleanliness. Completely harmless to humans.
Range of sizes. You can choose the thickness of the slabs from 3 cm to 12 cm, depending on the climate and the external finishing material.

Installation

Base insulation: polystyrene foam or polystyrene? Depending on the climate in which you live and the facing material, you can save money on polystyrene foam or play it safe by installing extruded polystyrene foam ().

Once you have decided on the class of material used, the following instructions will be useful to you:

We plaster the surface of the base with a thin layer of cement-sand mortar; a limestone mixture is also suitable for these purposes. The goal is to eliminate the slightest irregularities and cracks. We check the result with a spirit level.

After the cement-sand mixture has hardened, sand the surface and remove all dirt from it.
We apply a layer of bitumen or to protect the base from moisture.
From below we create a step of concrete or a mound of gravel to support the lower sections of the material. This will protect the material from direct contact with the ground.
Apply a special polyurethane glue to the inside of the foam with a roller and apply it to the left corner. The temperature to carry out this process must be at least five degrees Celsius.

Tip: be sure to check the composition of the glue so that it does not contain solvent. Otherwise, the structure of the insulation may be destroyed.

We adjust the next section close to the previous one and thus completely insulate the base with polystyrene foam. At the same time, we make an overlap of about 15 centimeters on the basement floor, which allows us to reduce the thermal conductivity of the floor covering in the building.

We apply a reinforced mesh onto the foam plastic and fix it through the slab material to the base with metal screws and plastic dowels. This way we get a completely stable and reliable structure.
We install a special waterproofing membrane on top.

At the final stage, we cover it with finishing material, which can be siding, artificial stone, board or even ordinary plaster.

The level of basement depth, the amount of annual precipitation in the region, the limits of low and high temperature, wall material, building dimensions significantly influence the complexity of installation work. Under more favorable conditions, fixation can be simplified or limited to less waterproofing.

Conclusion

Insulating the base with extruded polystyrene foam will completely solve the problem of heat loss through the base of the facade. Low thermal conductivity, long service life, affordable cost, moisture resistance, light weight, high strength and ease of installation make it simply irreplaceable in this area of construction work (