We are building a swimming pool at the dacha. We make an inexpensive pool at the dacha with our own hands

To date, several types of swimming pools have been developed, most of which can be installed on your own. Best option– a full-fledged monolithic concrete pool. This design is characterized by the highest reliability and durability.

Read the instructions provided and get started.


Set for work

  1. Level.
  2. Roulette.
  3. Stones.
  4. Rope.
  5. Steel binding wire.
  6. Reinforcing mesh.
  7. Small pegs.
  8. Fittings.
  9. Shut-off valve.
  10. Wooden boards or shields.
  11. Anti-corrosion agent for metal processing.
  12. Self-tapping screws.
  13. Cement.
  14. Sifted sand.
  15. Material for waterproofing.
  16. A block for compacting backfill layers.
  17. Shovels.

Preparatory activities


Decide on the desired shape and required dimensions of the artificial reservoir to be equipped.

When determining optimal sizes pool, consider how many people will swim in the pond. For a large family, it is better to immediately equip a spacious container.

In accordance with practical experience, the optimal depth of the reservoir is 1.5-1.8 m; in width and length, 4 m is most often sufficient.

For the rest, be guided by your needs and requirements. For example, if you plan to use the pool for full-fledged training, take this point into account when determining the required length and width of the reservoir.

Choose a convenient location to build a pool.

The main thing is that the space is not covered by trees. Because of the trees, the water in the pool will not be able to warm up properly and, in addition to this, will be constantly polluted by fallen leaves.

Also, low-lying areas are not suitable for arranging swimming pools, because... with such an arrangement, the water will be constantly polluted by rain flows.

Marking and digging a pit


Armed with a tape measure, stakes and cord, start marking the construction site.

The dimensions of the construction site should be 0.5 m larger than the dimensions of the future pool on each side. To mark boundaries, drive pegs into the ground and stretch a cord between them.


Completely remove the top fertile ball of soil.

Dig a pit of the required dimensions, and the bottom of the hole should be approximately 25-30 cm below the desired depth of the pool.

Carefully level the walls of the pit. The bottom of the pit must be given a slight slope.

Construction of a monolithic pool

Proceed directly to the construction of a monolithic pool.

Place a 20-30 cm layer of sand on the bottom of the pit. Carefully compact the laid material and cover it with waterproofing.

On modern market There is a fairly large assortment of effective ones. To ensure high-quality moisture protection, roofing material is well suited. This is a practical, reliable and inexpensive material.

Lay roofing felt. You can use molten bitumen to attach the material.

Lay the waterproofed surface with stones. Lay a ready-made reinforcing mesh on top of the layer of stones, or make it yourself from metal rods.

Create a drainage hole. Its depth should be slightly greater than the depth of the main reservoir. Install a pipe into the hole to drain water. The end of this pipe must be inserted into the reservoir. Equip the pipe with a shut-off valve to drain the water.

Fill the drainage hole with a fairly thick layer of gravel. Install an overflow and skimmer system to purify the pool water.

Place reinforcing bars around the perimeter of the pit in 30 cm increments. Maintain a 50 mm gap between the reinforcement and the edges of the reservoir. Fasten the reinforcement bars with wire.


Make it out of boards. Maintain a 15-centimeter gap between the formwork and the walls of the pit.


At the same stage, consider installing pipes and equipment for pumping and supplying water. Or you can use external systems of pumps and hoses - whichever is more convenient for you.

Start concreting the pool. you can order or make it yourself.

Pour the concrete gradually and slowly, in a horizontal layer.



Also fill the voids between the formwork panels and the pit walls. Give the mixture a month to gain strength and begin arranging the pool.

Do the interior design at your own discretion. You can tile the bowl. Or you can line the bottom with a 10-centimeter layer of clean sand, and then the pool will look like a body of natural origin.


Other private pool options

Frame systems

Such structures are constructed from wood with finishing cladding of tin or aluminum. Aluminum sheets have an attractive appearance and are superior to tin in terms of reliability and service life.

The frame straps are made from pine timber. Intermediate parts can be made from any thick, high-quality boards. To provide additional rigidity to the structure, braces made of strong boards are used.


Among the main advantages of frame pools, it should be noted that there is no need to carry out large volumes of excavation work and the possibility of dismantling the structure during the cold season.

Changing the water in such a pool is carried out using a flexible garden hose, which can be conveniently fixed at the bottom of the tank. Waste water from the pool can be used to water the garden.

All joints of the frame structure are subject to mandatory sealing. To give the structure the required tightness, even ordinary polyethylene film is well suited.

Wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic.

The installation of frame pools usually costs less money compared to the cost of erecting a monolithic structure, while such reservoirs have a fairly solid appearance and fit well into the design of the site.

Learn how to build with step by step instructions, from our new article.


To arrange a pool, if desired, you can even use ordinary polyvinyl chloride film. This material has a rather attractive appearance and acceptable performance characteristics.

The film tolerates contact with water normally, ensures proper tightness of the structure and allows you to save on waterproofing the reservoir.

Even if cracks appear in the container, a properly installed polyvinyl chloride film will retain water.

PVC film can be used both when arranging a new reservoir and when repairing an old pool. Moreover, to build such a structure, there is no need to carry out extensive excavation work: the film elements are simply fastened together using the temperature welding method, resulting in a very durable bowl.

The pool is installed on a pre-prepared base and fixed with a frame made of boards.


Today, swimming pools with a base made of fiberglass are very popular. This durable material can withstand even the most severe mechanical loads and does not require any additional coating.

Among the disadvantages of the design under consideration, one can only highlight the need for mandatory connection of all communications.

The bowl is installed on a solid concrete base.

Thus, there are many pool options available for the owner to choose from. Having studied the features of each type of artificial reservoir considered, you can come to the optimal solution and build the pool of your dreams without outside help.


Good luck!

Prices for prefabricated and inflatable pools from the manufacturer Azuro

Prefabricated and inflatable pools Azuro

Video - How to build a swimming pool with your own hands

(19 ratings, average: 4,11 out of 5)

In summer it is always nice to swim in cool water. However, it may not always be possible to go to a river or lake. In this case the best solution There will be a construction of a swimming pool with your own hands at the dacha or on the territory of a private house. So, you will always have your own body of water at hand, near which you can have a great time and relax. In this article we will look at how to build a swimming pool with your own hands.

Features and types of pools

There are many variations on the theme of pools for summer cottages or country house. But they can be conceptually divided into several main types.

Inflatable pools. Let's start with the simplest option. Its main advantage is its low cost and ease of installation. In addition, this model is mobile.

When packed and assembled, it can easily fit into the trunk of a car. This means that you can take it with you to nature, use it for a bathhouse, or simply install this pool in your house with your own hands without any problems.

Among modern models in this category you can find capacity itself various volumes - from mini-pools for summer cottages like children’s “paddling pools” to large inflatable structures that are designed for 10 tons of water or more.

The disadvantages include, first of all, fragility of inflatable pools: They wear out in just a few years. And also one cannot help but mention their vulnerability to various types of mechanical influences.

Frame pools

They are also quite simple designs. Their main advantages include mobility and high installation speed, which, in principle, is characteristic of any prefabricated structures. At the same time, they are more resistant to mechanical damage, unlike inflatable ones. However, an inflatable pool will cost owners much less than a frame one. At the same time, the service life of these pools is, by and large, also limited, like every mobile structure.

Portable swimming pools for saunas

These structures consist of a PVC cover, walls and bottom. Taking into account the depth, they can simply be located on a flat surface - depth up to 0.8 m, partially - up to 1.3 meters, or completely (more than 1.6 m) deep into the ground.

Their the shape can be absolutely any, but, as a rule, there is an oval, round, figure-eight shape. If these structures have a square or rectangular shape, then their corners are certainly rounded.

Such pools are good because they easy to install(especially those that don’t need to be deepened) and easy to connect. Their disadvantage is the tightness of the connecting seams. However, if you purchase a bath pool from a trusted company, it will serve you well for many years.

Stationary pools

We need to start with the obvious disadvantages of these designs: of all varieties, they are the most expensive- in terms of not only the construction of the pool, but also its further maintenance.

But that's where all the shortcomings end. Since stationary outdoor pools are fundamental structure, so to speak, for centuries.

Stationary pools can have a concrete bowl or a ready-made one. A concrete bowl allows the owner to build any kind of pool at home, even the most bizarre shape. At the same time, pool bowls made of composite materials greatly facilitate the process of arranging a pool on the site.

Gallery: swimming pool at the dacha (25 photos)



















Choosing a location and optimal size

Since it is the stationary pool that is considered “real,” then in the future the conversation will focus on this design. So, when you have decided on the type, you need to think about the size and installation location of the artificial reservoir itself. For the most part, the choice of location will depend on the wishes of the owner. As a rule, a pool is installed close to the recreation area, near the bathhouse, behind the house. But when choosing a location, certain factors must be taken into account:

  • The presence of nearby vegetation. It is advisable that there are no bushes, much less trees, near the reservoir. Plants are constantly drawn to moisture, and their root system very strong and can easily penetrate a concrete thicket.
  • Wind direction. Since this garden pool is outdoors, there is a high probability of all kinds of debris getting into it. To ensure that while swimming you do not encounter dry leaves, scraps of paper, etc., it is better if the pool is located in an area protected from the prevailing wind direction.
  • Priming. A lot depends on the properties of the soil. To begin with, it is desirable that the soil be clayey. In this case, you will additionally receive natural waterproofing. And also during the construction of a stationary bowl, you will need to dig a pit. When the soil at the chosen location is rocky, then excavation work can be very labor-intensive and complex, especially if you make a pool with your own hands in the country without help special equipment.

When it comes to the size of the future reservoir, in this case there are no special requirements. It will depend according to your preferences and availability of free space. For example, for swimming in one lane, a width of 2.5 m and a length of four meters is sufficient. When two paths are planned, the width can be increased to 5 meters.

The optimal depth of the reservoir is 1.5 meters. But even in this case, everything depends on the purposes for which you are building it. When you have children and the main purpose of the pool is to entertain them, you don’t need to make it very deep. And vice versa, when you are a diving enthusiast, depth plays an important role.

Construction stages

By and large, the process of building a swimming pool at the dacha is divided into the following stages:

As you can see, there is quite a lot of construction work. Moreover, any of the stages is very important, since not only appearance the entire structure, but also the operating time.

Bowl creation and excavation work

Let's move on directly to the main question - how to make a pool at the dacha with your own hands. If you have decided on the installation location and dimensions, then you can begin excavation work. First to the site apply markings. What can you use a rope stretched over pegs for?

Then we begin excavation work. This is the most labor-intensive stage during construction. You need dig a pit required depth and size. Moreover, it must be taken into account that the depth, length and width need to be approximately 50 cm larger.

This additional space is required for the installation of formwork. When the dimensions of the structure you have planned are very impressive, then you need to think about using special equipment.

Then, when the pit is dug, you can start creating the bowl. This stage of work includes the following activities:

  1. The walls and bottom of the pit are thoroughly compacted.
  2. A sand cushion is made. For this purpose, a layer of sand 25–40 cm thick is poured onto the bottom and carefully compacted.
  3. A layer of waterproofing is applied over the entire surface of the walls and on top of the pillow at the bottom. Now on the market you can see many materials that are an excellent barrier to water. The most cost-effective option is to use bitumen mass and roofing felt. These materials have proven themselves well and have been used for a long time.
  4. First, a layer of roofing material is laid over the entire surface (on the walls and bottom, while the walls must be covered with material up to the very top). Afterwards, several (preferably 4–5) layers of bitumen mass are applied.
  5. The next step is the installation of the drainage system. This must be done before installing the formwork. How many holes to make for draining and in what place depends on the shape and size of the bowl.
  6. Then we build the formwork, it can be made from scrap materials, and we begin pouring concrete. Moreover, it is imperative to use reinforcement.
  7. The formwork is removed after the concrete mass has hardened.

Lighting and decoration

Then you need to finish the bowl. But first you need additional apply a layer of waterproofing.

You also need to seal all the cracks that have formed so that water does not seep in and damage the bowl. To do this, you can use mastic, film or impregnating materials.

After installing the waterproofing, finishing work begins. As a rule, it is used to cover the bowl. tiles. This material can easily withstand prolonged exposure to water, is very easy to clean and has an attractive appearance.

Besides tiles, you can also use modern materials, for example, PVC film. Today, manufacturers produce a huge range of this material. It is durable and strong. At this point, the construction of the pool is actually completed.

In artificial reservoirs, water becomes polluted quite quickly and can be a favorable environment for the appearance of harmful bacteria. At the same time, dust, tree branches and fallen leaves constantly get into the outdoor pool.

For small pools you can build a lid, which will keep most of the debris out. Small particles that fall into the reservoir can be easily removed using a fine-mesh net. Algae that has formed on the walls clean with a soft bristle brush.

The water in this pool is desirable replace at least once a week. For example, use it to water the garden. The following methods are used to purify water in large pools:

  • Electrophysical disinfection - the use of equipment for saturating water with silver ions and ozonizers. Can be used for filtering and purifying water ultraviolet lamps, they disinfect water by killing mold spores and germs.
  • Chemical treatment - performed using special substances. As a result, the pH level is normalized and the water is disinfected. Action chemicals prevents the appearance of algae and eliminates the smallest particles of fat.
  • Physical cleaning - removing small and large debris using a net. Constant cleaning with a water filter. Cleaning the internal surface with a vacuum cleaner and brush.

Features of pool water purification

The simplest way to purify water is a water filter. There are three types of systems with varying degrees of filtration. Sand filter based on finely crushed quartz, removes harmful microparticles up to 25 microns in size.

Cartridge filters suitable for medium-sized artificial reservoirs with a diameter of no more than five meters. These filters are equipped with a special valve to get rid of small debris and a water purification system from harmful elements up to 15 microns in size.

Diatomite filters- These are highly efficient and modern water purification systems. Fossil powder, kieselguhr, mountain flour, etc. are used as a cleaning agent. These particles remove the smallest elements up to one micrometer in size.

Products used as chemical cleaning compounds are: based on active oxygen, bromine and chlorine. Chloride compounds are quite effective, but require strict dosage. If doses are exceeded, there is a high risk of skin damage and poisoning.

Bromine-based preparations are safer and do not have a distinct odor. Cleansing with active oxygen is the most convenient and at the same time completely safe for health. The drug is added to the water immediately after filling the pool, taking into account the total volume of liquid.

Pool on personal plot or at the dacha - this great place to relax on hot summer days. And building it with your own hands is not very difficult. You can build a pond from scrap materials, but it is much more reliable to make it from concrete.

Apply markings, make calculations, dig a pit, fill the bowl and complete the finishing. This main stages of work. With a little financial investment and effort, you will have a great vacation spot for the whole family.

To paraphrase the classic, we can say that installing a swimming pool in a house, on a personal plot or in a country house is not a luxury, it is a necessity.

The construction of private swimming pools on an individual plot has become standard, like the construction of or.

The only difference is in the design and scale: a small pool in the bathhouse, a decorative pool in the yard as part of the composition landscape design or construction of large sizes and volumes - indoor and outdoor swimming pools, which are located on the street, with all the associated fixtures and accessories.

Briefly about the main thing - how to get a swimming pool

You can get what you want in two ways:

  • First, buy a ready-made pool.

But before purchasing, please consider the following:

Expensive;

It is impossible to buy a concrete pool ready-made. This means you will have to pay for the project, for materials and for labor. Also, return VAT to the state;

  • Secondly, make the pool yourself.

This seems like a difficult task only at first glance. In fact, you already have everything you need: desire, opportunity and our instructions. This means that building a swimming pool should not cause any difficulties.

And physical fatigue will quickly pass when you splash around in the pool, which you made with your own hands.

Which pool is better to choose for a summer residence - types and types

Requires special knowledge for arrangement

It is cheap, convenient to carry and store, but is not very practical and has an extremely short service life.

Sold ready-made.

Purchasing such a structure (especially a large one) entails difficulties with delivery and installation, which cannot be done without special equipment (trailer, crane, excavator).

Plus, it involves digging a pit, which is also quite problematic.

Lightweight and durable. The design principle is similar to the previous version. Causes difficulties during transportation and installation.

The best and most justified option of all of the above.

This pool is ideal for a summer house or country house, where you will use it seasonally.

It can be made from concrete blocks, but it is better to pour a monolithic one. Despite the fact that this is the most complex and expensive design, its reliability and durability are beyond doubt.

Disadvantages of a concrete pool and how to eliminate them

  • problems with the water supply system. As a rule, they appear as a result of errors during their laying and installation of pipeline systems. If the work is carried out correctly, no difficulties arise;

  • Possible water leakage. This significant problem can be eliminated with the help of several layers of good waterproofing, the use of high-quality concrete and compliance with all rules for their installation;

  • peeling of ceramic tiles or mosaics. Eliminated by using high-quality special-purpose glue;

  • spread of fungus.

The appearance of fungus can be easily eliminated by regular cleaning and treating the surface of the bowl with special disinfection solutions.

Regular care and implementation of the above actions prevents the formation of fungus.

Permission to build a swimming pool

In fact, an outdoor pool in a yard or plot can be built without approval from Rostechnadzor.

According to Article 51 (clause 17) of the Town Planning Code of the Russian Federation, auxiliary use facilities do not require a documentary permit for construction. But there are some nuances here, it all depends on the parameters of the structure, if it is small in volume decorative or children's pool, then no questions asked, but if the permanent structure is for navigation, i.e. sufficient depth, length and width, then it is better to draw up documents.

If the pool is not registered in the BTI, accordingly, it will not be on the certificate of ownership, and it will not be included in the technical passport. In the future it will be possible to legalize it, but it will cost more than registering it right away.

Building a concrete pool with your own hands - instructions

Installation work - construction of a concrete bowl for a swimming pool

Preparing the site

To do this, standard procedures are followed: clear the area of ​​bushes and trees, and also cut off branches that may hang over the pool. Material from the site

Excavation work - digging a pit for a swimming pool

Of course, digging a pit can be done without the use of special equipment. But only if you have a small and shallow pool, you have a lot of time, effort and help.

As a rule, the cost of renting an excavator and digging services will be approximately the same, the difference is in time.

Construction of a pit for a swimming pool

  • increase the dimensions of the pit. They should be larger than the size of the future bowl. This is done in order to place technical equipment there and arrange a cushion under the concrete. And also for the construction of formwork.

  • presence of an angle. When digging walls, make sure that there is an angle of their deviation relative to the vertical. This method will prevent soil from falling into an already dug pit.

  • availability drainage systems. To ensure that the water that splashes out of the pool does not turn into puddles and does not destroy the landscape design, it is necessary to provide a place for its drainage.

  • The first step is to lay all hydraulic communications.

  • provide for the possibility of draining water.

To drain, the bottom of the pool is sloped at 5-7% (2-3 cm of slope per 1 meter of bottom), which should be directed towards the drain hole.

Arrangement of the pillow

(concrete footing)

A gravel-sand cushion is needed to ensure better pouring of concrete. Usually it is a mixture of sand and crushed stone, which compacts well. Cushion height 300-350 mm.

Bottom waterproofing

The more options for possible leakage we take into account and prevent, the longer the service life of the concrete pool will be.

It will come in handy.
For an oval pool, reinforcement no thicker than 10 mm is used. This is due to the fact that reinforcement of this diameter is sold in coils. And, therefore, you can independently adjust its length. The spacing of the reinforcing tracks is 200x250 mm.

For a rectangular pool, arbitrary installation of reinforcement with piping in increments of 200x200 cm is allowed.

You need to put something under the reinforcement, for example, a brick, so that it remains in the middle of the concrete base during the process of pouring the concrete solution.

After installing the reinforced frame, fill the bottom of the pool with concrete solution. When pouring, try to avoid the presence of voids filled with air - this will reduce the quality of the surface.

We are waiting until the concrete dries and you can safely move on it.

The principle of reinforcement is identical to the previous one.

The number of tiers is determined by the height of the bowl.

Installation of formwork for a swimming pool

The material used for formwork is a wooden board (painted or oiled) or, more conveniently, plywood (preferably moisture-resistant or laminated). The use of plywood allows you to create bent shapes with a minimum of effort, which is important when building a pool of complex or oval shape.

In order to avoid deformation of the formwork under the pressure of the weight of the concrete solution, it is recommended to install stiffeners and spacers at a distance of 500 mm. A beam with a cross section of 50x50 is suitable for spacers.

Installing plywood formwork is more expensive, but the surface quality of the concrete bowl is almost perfect.

Please note:
the sheathing for the steps is mounted separately.

Pouring the walls of the pool bowl with concrete

We wait until the concrete hardens. In this case, it is better to cover it with something to avoid destruction from exposure to temperature or moisture. And also periodically moisten with water.

If you do not plan to use a metal ladder, but want to make the procedure of immersion in water smooth, you need to provide concrete steps.

The formwork for the steps is installed when the entire concrete bowl for the pool is ready.

It is better to use plywood for the manufacture of formwork, because... it allows you to create bent shapes and does not require additional cleaning.

Construction of a concrete pool - video on pouring a concrete bowl

Finishing and lining of the pool bowl

The stage involves a set of activities:

Sanding pool walls

Grouting is done manually or using a special grinder.


Waterproofing is applied using special liquid solutions, between the layers of which reinforcing fabric (mesh) is laid.

When performing this type of work special attention should be given:

  • seams between the bottom and walls of the structure;
  • seams that appeared when pouring concrete;
  • place of communications entry;
  • chips, gouges and cracks.

Finishing

Before doing this, it is important to check the quality of the waterproofing. To do this, you need to fill the pool with water. Measure the water level. Then wait 10-12 days. And measure the water level again. Changes in this parameter are an alarming sign. This means that the waterproofing was done poorly and there is a leak somewhere.

The amount by which these two indicators differ can say a lot. For example, a slight discrepancy will indicate that the water could simply evaporate under the influence of heat.

The following materials are usually used for finishing:

facing tiles;

mosaic;

PVC film (the cheapest option).

The choice of finishing material is influenced by factors such as:

Easy to care for;
- accessibility;
- ease of installation;
- price;
- possibility of replacement;
- appearance.

It is difficult to find the owner of a country house who has not at least once thought about building a swimming pool or a plunge pool in the house. This desire is understandable. The opportunity to swim regardless of the time of year and weather conditions, to always be in good shape and the incomparable pleasure of taking water procedures is captivating.

Many novice developers believe that making them is not very difficult. Enough desire, free funds, and the dream came true. The many pitfalls and features hidden in the “wet” area arranged inside the house are overlooked. This is exactly what we will talk about in today’s material, from which you will learn:

  • How does a swimming pool in a private house differ from an ordinary plunge pool?
  • Is it worth building a “wet” zone in the house;
  • What nuances should you learn about before starting construction of a swimming pool in your home?
  • How to build a swimming pool in a house;
  • How much will it cost to build a “wet zone” inside the cottage?

Swimming pool and plunge pool: similarities and differences.

If you look at the results of our survey, you can see that the majority of FORUMHOUSE users were in favor of the “wet” zone.

But, before moving on to the specifics of arranging a font or swimming pool in a private house, you need to understand these concepts, because Already at this initial stage, confusion arises, because a font is often called a pool, and vice versa.

A swimming pool is a complex engineering and hydraulic structure that includes a bowl, filtration equipment intended for water treatment, pumping equipment necessary for recirculation (changing and, if necessary, draining water), and a water heating system.

A classic font is a relatively small container (sometimes mobile, made of wood) filled with cold water, designed for contrasting water procedures. Traditionally, a font is an attribute of a bathhouse, and a small pool is an attribute of a sauna. In the font there is a more frequent change of water.

An indoor pool is primarily intended for entertainment and swimming, and equipped with attractions - waterfalls, geysers, hydromassage, countercurrent (artificial current) - it becomes a center of attraction for the whole family.

Few people can afford to build a full-fledged swimming pool in their home for several people, “with three lanes of 25 meters each.” Therefore, developers choose a different type of pool: a therapeutic and recreational pool, small (sometimes also called a font), equipped with SPA equipment with a water volume in the bowl of 1-3 m3.

The second option - sanitary and health facilities with a volume of 3 to 8 m3, just like the first type of home “reservoir”, are used as an addition to a sauna, hammam or bath complex.

To swim, they build a larger structure - 15-50 m3, 1.5 meters deep (which is enough for swimming). Accordingly, the requirements for such structures, as well as their price, increase in direct proportion to their size.

But even if you want to build a relatively small pool in your house, with a bowl measuring 3x5 meters, you should prepare for the costs in advance. Therefore, before you begin its construction and make an informed decision, you need to understand what requirements are imposed on the room within which the “wet” zone is located.

Construction of a wet zone: pros and cons

The advantages are obvious - the pool is in the house itself, you can use it whenever you want. This is what, as follows from the comments of our users, becomes the main driver of the desire to build it.

Lutsenko User FORUMHOUSE

For me, this will be a place of cultural relaxation, where you can splash around and sing karaoke.

Barnauleichik User FORUMHOUSE

I planned to build a big house for the whole family, as they say, “for centuries.” I want a pool in the cottage that is 5 meters long. I will equip it with a countercurrent and will “swim” against the current.

The participants of our portal are echoed by a user with the nickname Sintetik, who planned to build a house measuring 11x16 meters with a swimming pool and a sauna. In his opinion, the main idea of ​​such construction is to get all the water activities without leaving the building.

The advantages are obvious, but there is a second side to this issue. The disadvantages become real “underwater reefs”, on which the desire to build a “wet zone” can be broken.

First, here are the results of our second survey:

As you can see, most of the users of our portal chose the option of placing it on the site, in an extension to the house. This is due to the fact that a pool in a house is not just a large “bathtub” filled with water, but, as mentioned above, a real water complex equipped with expensive engineering equipment. There are special requirements for its design, premises and building, which should be known in advance.

How to build a swimming pool at home

Already from the name “wet” zone it is clear that this room must meet a number of specific characteristics. This includes reliable waterproofing, the use of waterproof materials and compounds for finishing the “wet” area, the provision of all necessary communications, and a well-designed ventilation system.

In addition, a swimming pool or plunge pool in a house always means additional and heavy weight. The stone bowl, the construction of which took tens of cubic meters of concrete, plus the water in it, puts a significant load on the underlying structures or soil layers.

There are projects of private houses where the pool is located in the basement, on the first floor, or on the second floor (in this case, additional load is placed on the ceilings and walls).

Based on this, we remember this rule - the pool is designed together with the house. The main mistake is to erect a building and then think about how to place a swimming pool in it, or try to place a large plunge pool in the basement. In this case, the base plate may simply not withstand the load and crack.

The pool and the house should be two structures independent of each other. The pool bowl must not be connected to the walls of the house; building ceilings or walls cannot be supported on the bowl.

rex@ User FORUMHOUSE

The principle of construction is the following - first we make a general design and coordinate it with the organization that will build your pool. According to the technology, first a bowl is built, and then a building is erected around it. The depth of the building's foundation in the place where it runs next to the pool is determined by the authors of the project.

Timidjar User FORUMHOUSE

The foundation of the house should not be connected to the foundation of the pool.

During construction, special attention should be paid to the strength and tightness of the bowl, as well as reliable waterproofing of the “wet” area. Reinforcement, grade of concrete, additives that give the mixture increased water resistance, waterproofing, additional equipment that is planned to be equipped with an individual pool, the presence of all necessary utilities - all this is taken into account in advance, and not after.

The waterproofing of the bowl must be continuous over the entire surface. When casting a concrete bowl (if this is the construction option chosen), it is undesirable to make cold seams - in the future they may become a possible source of leakage. Hence, the walls of the bowl are filled in one go.

In addition, if you plan to build a swimming pool in a house, you need to find out whether the soil can withstand the combined weight of the building and the bowl filled with water, or whether the soil may settle unevenly over time, which will lead to an emergency: the walls of the building or the bowl will crack, and water will flow out of it. will begin to flow out, washing away the foundation. In this case, expensive repairs will be required.

It is impossible to understand how to build a swimming pool at home without solving a number of engineering and design problems. Moreover, building a bowl is not always one of the most difficult tasks.

How to build a swimming pool at home - problems and solutions

The organization of a room for a swimming pool or plunge pool and the availability of free space are one of the main factors influencing the adoption final decision their construction. Those. - to the area of ​​residential and non-residential premises An additional room is added to the house where a swimming pool or plunge pool will be placed.

Considering that people don’t swim in the pool every day, we come to the conclusion that there will be a room in the cottage that will actually be idle for a large amount of time. And the cottage itself will have to be built with an increased area, and all its engineering systems will have to be designed and tied to servicing the pool.

Full-fledged indoor pools are built in cottages with an area of ​​300-400 square meters. m or more.

But even having decided to build a huge house (which still needs to be maintained and heated), you need to ask the opinion of the household - how often will they use the pool, and whether it will eventually turn into an expensive and useless toy that requires constant investment.

Many developers miss such an important point in arranging a “wet” area as ventilation. In one of our previous articles we already talked about, but we repeat - a large volume of water constantly present in the house is a source of high humidity.

From 1 sq. m of pool, approximately 0.25 (the figure is given as a guide) liters of liquid evaporates per day. Without installing supply and exhaust ventilation (which is calculated in relation to the area of ​​the water surface in the pool bowl or font and the temperature of the water and air in the room), the pool in the house will turn into a constant headache.

In the absence of ventilation, the evaporated water will condense and fall out in the form of droplets on the surfaces of the “wet” area. Over time, this will lead to damage to the finish, dampness, fungi and unpleasant odors.

And this is just one of many factors that complicate the arrangement of the “wet” area of ​​the house. Let's add the need to install engineering and filtration equipment, heat water, and arrange mortgages in the premises for additional communications.

You also need to think in advance about where to drain the water. Septic tank or storm drain may not be able to withstand large volume discharges. That is, all systems in the house and the pool area must be calculated with a reserve for its long-term operation. Don’t forget to add in the costs of laying additional routes for electrical cables in the “wet” room, installing another electrical panel, the cost of purchasing waterproof switches and switches, pumps and electricity costs. After all, for a swimming pool to function, it is necessary to equip it with appropriate equipment powered by electricity. We calculate whether the allocated power is enough for the normal operation of the “wet” zone in the house. For reference, we will resort to the following approximate figures given by a user with the nickname Besrom:

  • Filtration system - 0.55 kW;
  • Backlight two LED lamps at 12 volts - 100 W;
  • Control system, valve - 0.50 kW;
  • Counterflow - 3.5 kW;
  • Waterfall - 2 kW.

Moreover, it is best to use three-phase network at 380V. It is not surprising that the monetary component becomes a decisive factor when answering the question “to be or not to be in a “wet” zone in the house.”

Make a pool in your house: cost of construction and maintenance

NahNah User FORUMHOUSE

I planned to build a swimming pool 15x5x3 meters. Now I’m wondering how much it will cost me to maintain it for 1 year and for 10 years, taking into account all the necessary planned activities and major repairs.

The “wet” area in the house can become a significant expense item, because the pool or plunge pool must be filled with water and its level maintained at a constant level (the water constantly evaporates; to reduce the level of evaporation, the pool is covered with a special blanket or blinds). It’s not enough to understand how to make a pool in country house, and what budget to allocate for construction - you will also have to spend money on “chemistry” to disinfect the water and, most importantly, maintain acceptable conditions and above-zero temperatures in winter. Those. the water will have to be heated, and the home’s heating system may not be able to cope with this. Considering that the climate in our country is harsh, and the heating season, depending on the region of residence, will last 6-8 months, the pleasure of water treatments can cost a pretty penny.

rex@ User FORUMHOUSE, Moscow.

From my experience I will say, build a building with a bathhouse, shower, toilet and recreation room accommodating a 3x6 meter pool cost 1.7 million rubles. Swimming pool with a concrete bowl and all heated equipment, countercurrent, waterfall - 1.2 million rubles.

According to user Step48, owning a house with a wet zone can be compared to owning a car. The more complex and expensive the machine, the more expensive its maintenance. It’s the same here: you have to spend money on water treatment, water heating, maintenance (not everything can be done with your own hands), monitoring the operation of equipment, performing scheduled maintenance, etc.

Sintetik User FORUMHOUSE

I built a swimming pool in my house with my own hands. Bowl 3x4x1.5 meters. It took about 10 cubic meters of concrete. Construction cost 100 thousand rubles. Equipment + another 400 thousand rubles. Mosaic finishing – 200 thousand rubles. The total is already 700 thousand rubles.

Based on these figures, the construction of a home “wet” area with a swimming pool measuring 15x5x3 will cost 10 times more, because a heavy bowl will pull down a serious foundation; it is necessary to make engineering equipment, pumps, etc. In fact, in terms of costs and further maintenance, this is not the construction of a room for a “wet” zone, but the construction of a second house, not even a house, but a full-fledged house.

Summing up

Undoubtedly, having a swimming pool in a private home is both prestigious and useful, but only if there are sufficient funds for its construction and, importantly, constant operation and maintenance. In other cases, you need to think ten times before deciding to build it. Therefore, when arranging a “wet” area or room for taking water procedures, first of all, you need to use common sense and, as an option, build a small pool or plunge pool. Moreover, our portal has accumulated extensive experience in the construction of such home structures.

Called "Fairy Tale".

Not every summer resident is lucky enough to have his own house near a pond, where after physical work he can relax and enjoy cool water. The rest have to either get into the car and go in search of the nearest river, or make a pool with their own hands at the dacha. More often they choose the second option, because in addition to relaxation, the pool also provides side benefits:

  • warm, settled water, which can be used to water flower beds and vegetable gardens (if you did not add chemicals for disinfection!);
  • the opportunity to switch children who are keen on tablets, mobile phones and laptops to a healthier vacation;
  • improvement of the body, etc.

All that remains is to choose from the many options for stationary pools the one that suits the needs of the family and the landscape of the site.

To simplify the maintenance of your built pool, consider the following points already at the planning stage:

  1. It is better if the pool area has clay soil. It will stop water leakage in case of waterproofing failures.
  2. Choose a place with a natural slope of the soil. This will make it easier for you to dig a pit and immediately decide where to install the drainage system.
  3. Tall trees should not grow near the future pool, because their root system, sensing the proximity of moisture, will reach the walls of the structure and can ruin the waterproofing. Poplar, chestnut, and willow are considered the most “aggressive”. If there are already trees growing on the site, you will have to part with them in advance. It's cheaper than rebuilding a damaged pool.
  4. Low-growing trees are also undesirable, because you will have to constantly remove leaves from the bowl, and during the flowering period the water turns yellow with pollen.
  5. Pay attention to which direction the wind most often blows at your dacha, and try to place the pool so that the air moves along the bowl. Then all the dirt and debris will be nailed to one wall, along the edges of which it is recommended to install a drain system.
  6. Try to locate the pool closer to the water supply to make it easier to fill.

Preliminary calculations - sizing

The width and length are determined based on the purpose of the pool. If it is intended for swimming, then choose a rectangular shape, making the bowl elongated. If for relaxation, splashing and resting the whole family, then it is more convenient to communicate in round bowls.

A more important criterion is depth. It is believed that in order to feel free, swim easily, turn around under water and jump from the side, you need a depth of one and a half meters (and no more!). But ski jumping requires a deeper bowl - at least 2.3 m. However, it is enough to make such a depth in the diving area, creating a smooth transition from the main size (1.5 m).

If the construction of a swimming pool at the dacha is intended exclusively for children's recreation, then the depth of the bowl should not exceed half a meter. This is enough for fun games and floundering without risk to health.

The most complex design is a combined pool in which everyone will swim. In this case, different depths are created for the children's and adult zones, and both zones must be separated by a strong partition that starts from the very bottom. This will ensure that children do not accidentally enter the adult area.

Important! In any pool that has several different depths, it is necessary to make the bottom flat and smoothly transition from one size to another. Sudden changes in depth are unacceptable for safety reasons. A person, walking along the bottom, can gape and miss the boundary beyond which another depth begins, and in a panic, when his legs instantly go down, the risk of choking is very high.

Choosing a bowl: buy ready-made or make it yourself?

The most labor-intensive work involves preparing the pit and filling the bowl. But manufacturers have figured out how to build a swimming pool in a country house faster and easier. They created ready-made bowls that only need to be dug into the ground and fixed. In addition to the obvious advantage of ease of installation, ready-made structures are also advantageous in that they come in all sorts of shapes and colors, which cannot be said about concrete. In addition, during operation, concrete bowls may crack if the soil begins to move.

Types of finished bowls: plastic and composite

There are two types of ready-made bowls on sale: plastic and composite. The principle of their installation is absolutely the same. The only difference is technical specifications materials.

A plastic bowl requires additional insulation of the pool walls from the outside

In plastic structures, the main material is polypropylene. It is not afraid of fading, does not require draining water for the winter, is environmentally friendly, and is resistant to mechanical stress. And the smooth surface prevents the formation of plaque and sediment on the walls and bottom. Such bowls do not require additional interior decoration because they look aesthetically pleasing. The only negative: if the pool is installed in a place where there is no shade, then in the heat the polypropylene can expand, causing the bottom and walls to “ripple.” But as soon as the temperature drops, the bowl takes on its normal appearance.

Composite bowls are made of fiberglass, which is not afraid of either frost or heat.

Composite structures do not have this problem. The main material in them is fiberglass, which is bonded with polymer resins. All the advantages characteristic of plastic bowls are also characteristic of this material. But there is a small “but”: the composite is quite expensive.

DIY bowl options

And yet, some summer residents still prefer bowls that are created on site, because you cannot always find a container with the size and shape that ideally suits a specific landscape, and very large pools (about 10 m in length) cause difficulties in transportation. The vast majority of owners make swimming pools for their summer cottages with their own hands from concrete. This material is always on sale. If it is impossible to deliver it to the site in the form of a liquid solution, an ordinary concrete mixer is installed and a mixture is created on site with the addition of sand.

A bowl made of polystyrene foam blocks is easy to install due to the lightness of the material and perfectly maintains the water temperature

It is possible to create the entire bowl from concrete, including the walls, but this requires a long time and a lot of labor to install the formwork and pour it.

Resourceful summer residents came up with a simpler design for a swimming pool at their dacha: they kept only the bottom concrete, and began making the walls from polystyrene foam blocks or steel sheets. In the first option, the pool turns out to be warm, since polystyrene foam has low thermal conductivity. Steel walls are very easy to install, as they are sold ready-made with everything additional equipment in the form of a facing film and fastening fittings.

Installation of a swimming pool with a finished bowl

Let's look at how to make a swimming pool at your dacha using a factory-made bowl.

Site marking

  1. We carefully measure the bowl delivered to the site.
  2. We mark the location of the future pit on the ground using pegs and rope. We drive pegs into the corners of the future bowl, and stretch the rope between them. The more irregular the shape of the pool, the more often you drive in the pegs.
  3. We step back a meter from the stretched rope and make marks along the entire perimeter (cut off the soil, hammer in new pegs, etc.). It is from this marking that you will begin to dig the pit. This reserve is needed to make it easier to lower the bowl, insulate its walls and create a solid foundation.
  4. We remove the internal markings and start digging a pit.

Earthworks

The pool pit must have a flat and stable bottom, so it is concreted

The pit should be half a meter deeper than the size of the bowl itself. Now we create a base on which we will place the bowl:

  1. Spread the bottom with a 20-centimeter layer of coarse sand and compact it.
  2. We lay a metal mesh over the sand for a fortress and pour concrete mortar over it, 25 centimeters thick. We wait until it dries.

The concrete layer used to fill the bottom must be reinforced so that it does not crack when the soil moves

After this we insulate the pool:

  1. We lay geotextiles over the entire concrete base, and three-centimeter slabs of expanded polystyrene on it. They will insulate the bottom of the pool from the cold ground.
  2. Lay a thick, durable film over the insulation.
  3. While the bowl is at the top, its walls should be insulated. The outer surface of the walls is “packed” in polystyrene foam and insulated with polyethylene.

The outer walls of the bowl are insulated with polystyrene foam to insulate them from cold ground

Installing the bowl and connecting communications

  • We lower the prepared bowl to the bottom of the pit.
  • We connect all the necessary communications to the bowl. We put a protective sleeve on the pipes and secure it with tape so that it does not move during concreting.

Spacers will prevent the bowl from bending when the concrete reinforcement of the pool is poured; And all pipes must be packed in a protective sleeve so that they do not freeze in winter

  • We concrete the remaining voids between the soil and the walls of the pool as follows:
  1. We install spacers inside the bowl so that the plastic or composite does not bend under the pressure of the concrete mass;
  2. We put up the formwork and lay reinforcement around the perimeter;
  3. We do not pour the solution all at once, but in layers: we fill the pool with 30-40 cm of water and raise the concrete to the same height. We wait for it to harden, then water again - and after that concrete. This way we bring the concrete layer to the surface of the soil.
  4. We wait a day until the pouring hardens and only then remove the formwork.
  5. We fill the voids from the formwork with sand, pouring it with water and compacting it.

All that remains is to decorate the pool area and fill it with water.

For outdoor pools, it is advisable to create a canopy roof that will protect you from dirty precipitation, or at least sew an awning with which you will cover the structure when you leave the dacha.

If installing swimming pools at your dacha seems like a difficult task, buy an inflatable or frame version. Such pools are quite suitable for water recreation, and for the winter you can easily disassemble them and hide them in the attic.