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Why does the drain pump break? If the submersible pump does not pump The drainage pump does not pump well

In private households, a drainage pump performs many useful functions, including pumping water from wells, swimming pools, sewage basins and flooded basements. Responsible owners try to adhere to the rules for operating the drainage system in order to ensure its uninterrupted operation and not be left without a much-needed device at the most inopportune moment. However, even in this case, no one is immune from unexpected problems. The situation when the drainage pump hums but does not pump water is one of the most common. Moreover, the complexity and speed of eliminating such a malfunction depends on its cause and knowledge of the device.

Drainage pump device
Insufficient water level
Mechanical failure
Air valve problems

Is it possible to fix the problem with the pump yourself Video: repairing a drainage pump Design of a drainage pump

Without delving too deeply into the details of the design, the main components of a typical drainage system are:

engine;
pump unit;
suction grid;
float switch.

Drain pump design

Taking into account the operating conditions of such equipment, its body is made of stainless steel or wear-resistant plastic. An impeller is installed on the motor shaft, due to the rotation of which a suction effect is created.

FYI. Since the pump is immersed in water, manufacturers pay special attention to waterproofing the housing to prevent damage to the electrical part inside the device.

Depending on the size of the suction grid openings, the maximum size of solid particles is determined, the presence of which is allowed in the pumped water. In different models, this parameter ranges from 3 mm to 50 mm (in some cases up to 120 mm).

The drainage pump does not pump water: the main reasons

There may be several reasons why the drainage pump hums but does not work, that is, does not pump out water.

Insufficient water level

Since drainers are submersible pumping equipment, they must be located in an aquatic environment. To prevent the pump from operating in dry running mode, special protection is installed on this device - a float switch that turns off the device if the water level in the source is insufficient.

Interesting to know. Inside the float switch is a ball that changes its position depending on the water level, closing or opening the contacts of the electrical circuit.

There are situations when the engine is running, but the fluid is not pumped out. As a rule, this is due to the cavitation mode - as a result of too much power of the device, water simply does not have time to penetrate between the impeller blades. In this case, the pump must be immersed deeper.

Float switch device

Mechanical failure

If the sump pump hums but does not turn, then the problem is most likely caused by a mechanical problem. If the impeller blades are damaged, the broken part may cause the shaft to become wedged. Another reason for shaft jamming is the loss of functionality of the bearing system.

It's quite easy to check. It is necessary to remove the device from the water, having first disconnected it from the power supply, and try to turn the impeller by hand. If rotation is difficult, additional disassembly of the device will be required.

Interturn short circuit of the electric motor

In addition to a mechanical problem, the engine not spinning can be caused by an electrical problem. If the drain pump makes a loud noise when turned on, and the power cable begins to overheat, then the most likely cause is an interturn short circuit in the motor winding.

This is one of the most common problems with drains in the absence of protection against dry running. During operation of a submersible pump, heat is removed from the electric motor using water, while during idling the motor overheats, which causes a breakdown in the insulation of its windings and loss of functionality.

Sometimes a burnt out motor winding can be seen with the naked eye.

Air valve problems

Some sump pump models are equipped with a special air release valve. Due to operation in a difficult environment, water with various impurities gets inside the device, which over time causes the ball located in the valve hole to stick. If there is no constant air removal, the pump stops pumping out water and operates in idle mode.

Advice. To restore the functionality of the drain system, sometimes it is enough to bleed the pump in clean water, which will help clear the valve hole of excess deposits.

Is it possible to fix the problem with the pump yourself?

The desire of any owner to solve the problem of pumping water without involving specialists is quite natural. However, this is not always possible, especially if we are talking about serious malfunctions with the mechanical or electrical part of the device.

If the drainage pump hums but does not pump water when the liquid level is low, this situation is described in almost any operating manual for this equipment. If possible, the pump part must be lowered deeper or the remaining water must be removed manually.

If the shaft is wedged, you cannot do without disassembling the device. Here you will need a special tool and certain skills in repairing such devices. A mechanical problem can often be resolved by replacing the impeller or bearings. With the electrical part, everything is much more complicated, since a burnt-out motor needs rewinding, which can only be done in the factory.

The performance of a drainage pump largely depends on its correct placement and compliance of the quality of the pumped water with the capabilities of the device.

Before disassembling the device, you should realistically evaluate your knowledge and skills. Unprofessional repairs often lead to the impossibility of restoring the functionality of the equipment. Therefore, if the drainage pump hums but does not rotate, it is better to involve specialists and save yourself from the need to purchase a new device.

Video: drain pump repair

A good manager of a summer cottage or the owner of a private house has at least one encountered the problem of pumping out water. Such a nuisance could occur as a result of flooding of basements after heavy rains or melting snow, the need to pump water from a swimming pool in a country house or a private house, a well or a sewer sump.

For these purposes you will need a drainage pump. Responsible owners of such equipment try to monitor the technical condition and timely repair the drainage pump in order to avoid breakdowns of the pumping unit at the wrong time and so that it can turn on as it should.

Drainage pump: purpose

By drainage we mean a pump that is designed to pump out (drainage) any liquid or ensure the operation of the sewage system in normal mode. A drainage pump is often confused with a fecal pump. This happens out of ignorance. After all, with the same operating principle and purpose, they are similar, but the liquids they pump are different.

Drainage pump Gardena classic

The use of a fecal pump is possible for pumping out liquids with impurities with a diameter of up to 8 mm. To prevent excess impurities from entering the working chamber, a grinder is installed. The ability to crush and remove 98% of debris allows for extremely rare repairs of the unit.

The drainage pump does not have a grinder in its design. For protective purposes, it is equipped with a mesh filter, which collects larger particles of impurities up to 10 mm in size. The operation of the drainage pump is carried out by supplying liquid using an impeller, as well as other elements of the system. After this, the liquid that was pumped from a container or water source enters the hose. The freed space inside the housing is occupied by new liquid, which comes from the inlet.
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Major breakdowns and malfunctions of drainage pumps

Let's look at the main problems associated with repairing a drainage pump and which occur most often:

the pump hums, but it does not pump water;
when the unit is turned on, the circuit breaker is knocked out or plugs fly out;
strong vibration or overheating;
low fluid pressure at the outlet;
breakdown of the pressure switch or hydraulic accumulator;
defrosting the unit.

The pump hums without creating fluid pressure

A common problem occurs when the drain pump does not pump, but continues to hum. In this case, little or no fluid pressure may be created.

Drainage pump device

The most common reasons why the pump hums but does not pump water are:

low level of pumped liquid;
interturn short circuit of the electric motor;
mechanical failure;
problems with the air valve.

The location of the drainage pump in the aquatic environment is mandatory, since they are considered submersible pumping equipment. To prevent the use of the drainage unit without liquid (dry), additional protection is installed on it in the form of a float switch. The float switch is capable of automatically turning off the unit if there is insufficient level of the pumped liquid.

This shutdown is possible thanks to a ball located inside the float. When the water level changes, it changes location in the float and closes or opens contacts in the electrical circuit. Sometimes it happens that the engine hums or runs, but no fluid is pumped. This is due to the cavitation regime. Cavitation occurs if the equipment has excessive power, and therefore water does not always have time to seep through the impeller blades. To solve this situation, the pump should be lowered deeper.

The lack of movement of the electric motor may be due to an interturn short circuit. This electrical failure can be detected by turning on the engine and it will begin to hum, and the power cable will heat up. Turn-to-turn short circuits mainly occur due to equipment operating in a dry environment. After all, the engine is cooled by pumped water. Without water, the engine idles and overheats, which causes damage to the insulation of its windings.

Burnt out pump winding

A mechanical fault occurs when the engine is running. If it turns on, but does not spin and hums. This can happen if the impeller blades break. Broken parts can jam the rotating shaft. Or, if the shaft jams, the performance of the bearing system may be impaired.

All this, with such long-term operation, will still lead to an interturn short circuit and then the drainage pump will have to be repaired. In order to verify this failure, you will need to turn off the power and remove the equipment from the aquatic environment. After this, you need to rotate the impeller on the shaft. If you cannot turn the impeller, you will have to disassemble the device.

Some drainage pumps have special valves installed that release air. The ball located in the valve often sticks. This happens when the device operates in a difficult environment and water with impurities gets into the inside of the unit. Sticking of the ball disrupts the constant removal of accumulated air and the engine starts to idle. To restore functionality, sometimes it is enough to let the pump run in clean water. The valve hole is slightly cleaned of adhering dirt and plaque.

When the electric motor is turned on, the circuit breaker may turn off or the fuses on the plugs may blow and the cable feeding the pump may melt. This occurs when the shaft jams in the bearings or when the electric motor burns out. If the electric motor burns out, a characteristic burning smell will be heard.

Float switch repair

This could happen when the device was connected incorrectly, the wrong power supply was selected - 380 V instead of 220 V. It is better not to disassemble the pump in this case, since you will still have to take the drain pump to a service workshop for repairs for further rewinding armature windings. To confirm that the windings are faulty, you can measure their insulation resistance.

The minimum insulation resistance to enable the unit to operate must be 0.2 MOhm.

As mentioned above, some models of drainers are equipped with thermal relays that turn off the device if it overheats. In its absence, you have to carefully ensure that the pump is not in working condition for a long time outside the pumped liquid. During prolonged operation in a dry case, the device will overheat, which will entail displacement of the magnet fixed with epoxy glue, which, in turn, The pump piston may jam.

After the magnet peels off, internal vibration may begin and a chain reaction about the pump will occur, which ultimately destroys all mechanics and electronics. As a result, the entire apparatus becomes a pile of scrap metal. Experts believe that in most cases, after such breakdowns, repairs for the drainage pump will not be economically profitable.

If this defect is detected in a timely manner, you should contact the service center. There they will carry out appropriate diagnostics of the equipment, replace damaged parts and install the magnet itself in place. Self-repair may lead to a series of incorrect actions, which will affect performance.

Gilex pump repair

First, the device is completely disassembled and the magnet is carefully removed. After this, apply longitudinal notches to the body and magnet for better adhesion. After that, glass sealant or new epoxy glue is applied, worn parts are replaced and the pump is reassembled in the reverse order.

Drains, both surface and submersible, break down in the form of low pressure at the outlet. There are several reasons for this failure:

The most common filter that gets clogged is the filter. The pressure of the pumped liquid through the sleeve (hose) may drop sharply or stop completely. The main symptoms of this are overheating of the motor or overloaded operation of the device and its strong noise. In surface stations, when worn, the sleeve is damaged or the clamp that tightens the fastening to the sleeve is weakened.

This allows unnecessary air to be sucked into the pumping system and the ability to lift water from the source is lost. The solution to this problem is simple- you will need to inspect all connections on pipes and clamps.

Sometimes everything seems fine. In this case, the vibrator may have a small stroke. To eliminate this malfunction, the device is disassembled and an additional washer and vibration rod are adjusted. Lining one washer does not always help. Several more of the same may be required, which is determined by the selection method. Seals and membranes must be intact and without damage.
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Drain pump repair (video)

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Repair of drainage pumps

The faults listed above for the drainage pump cannot always be corrected on your own. You can independently fix a weakened shock absorber, release or replace the float, eliminate mechanical damage that resulted in jamming of the impeller, and replace the power cable.

The simplest of all this will be securing the shock absorber. To do this, you will need to disassemble the device body and tighten the loose nuts on the mounting bolts. It is imperative to lock the top nut to prevent further loosening. It will take some time to replace the power cable. Replacing the condenser is possible in some drainage models.

Other faults are practically impossible to eliminate without the involvement of service workshops. For example, if a rod is broken, it is easier and sometimes cheaper to purchase new equipment than to disassemble it and try to repair it. Replacing a valve is a difficult and unprofitable undertaking to solve the problem on your own. Replacement of a burnt winding should be carried out in specialized workshops.

Disassembling the Belamos DWP CS drainage pump

to menu The most common causes of breakdowns

If there is a need to repair pumping equipment, it is necessary to find out the probable cause of its failure, which are often:

Failure to comply with the terms of periodic inspection and repair of equipment.
The equipment was not operated correctly. During operation of the device, its operating parameters were exceeded.
The pumped liquid contains solid impurities larger than required.
Long-term use of the pump in dry mode.
The equipment was installed incorrectly or poorly.
The hydraulic accumulator and relay are out of order, and there is no filter.

When the first hint of a breakdown appears, you should immediately check the following components of the device:
The ideal distance between the electromagnetic coils and the piston should be set from 0.4 to 0.5 cm. If these distances are not observed, the coils will beat if the gap is too large and the motor will overheat if the gap is too small.

Draining a reservoir with a drainage pump

The piston must not have mechanical damage or defects, its condition must be elastic. The valve covering the inlet holes must have a gap between the body of 0.7 to 0.8 mm. Air should flow freely when blowing on the intake side. It often happens that poor pump performance is not due to its failure. There may be power outages in the network.

Therefore, before you begin disassembling the device, make sure that the mains voltage matches, which should be 220-240 V. It should be noted that for long-term and reliable operation of the pumping equipment, it is necessary to carry out timely technical inspection and maintenance of the device and follow the rules of technical operation.

Registration: 06/24/08 Messages: 72 Thanks: 1

There is a drainage pump in the cesspool. It's been working fine for two years now. I used it to pump out water (when the hole was filled, I pumped out the water, then turned it off). The other day I turned on the pump again, but the water was not pumped out. I went and looked at the hose - no water was coming out of it at all. I turned off the pump, took out any damage from the hole, and found no breaks (kinks) in the hose. Everything looks fine, but it doesn't work. The pump is equipped with a float switch.
What could be the problem? Experts, please tell me.

Two ideas and two questions arose.

1. Maybe the pump’s overheating protection is triggered and that’s why it doesn’t turn on? After all, it’s hot outside (in the sun + 40 or more) and we’re pouring hot water into the pit.
2. Could the problem be with the float switch?
1. How does the float switch work (when it is above the pump, it turns the pump on, when below it turns it off, yes or not; or does it depend on the presence/absence of water)?
2. Could the pump burn out due to idling?
Registration: 04/27/07 Messages: 215 Thanks: 35
Registration: 06/24/08 Messages: 72 Thanks: 1

answers to questions - a ball is rolling in the switch... lifted - the ball fell on the contacts.
To check, place it in a bucket of water and lift the float up. if it buzzes, then it works - if not, then look further along the circuit... there is no protection against overheating there... but the engine is cooled by pumping water... incl. if you believe your words, you just burned it...

Thanks for your response.

Could something happen to the contacts (ball)?
Where next to look “along the chain”?
How could I burn him? He was always in my hole with water.
Bandit_r
Why did you decide that there is no protection against overheating?
I have a drainage pump from ALKO and the instructions say that there is overheating protection.
avn1
Registration: 06/24/08 Messages: 72 Thanks: 1

avn1
Lower the pump into the water so that the float floats up and shake it... sometimes this float does not work. If it does not work, only opening it will help.

I'll try to shake it.
What should you look at when opening it?
Registration: 11/19/08 Messages: 114 Thanks: 41
Registration: 06/24/08 Messages: 72 Thanks: 1

I tried shaking it, but nothing worked. And I turned it on in the bucket too - nothing. It doesn't even buzz.

I'll take it apart (even though I'm not an expert in this). Is it really possible to get to the blades without disassembling the pump? In my pump they seem to be out of reach.
Registration: 11/19/08 Messages: 114 Thanks: 41

Usually, drainage drains have a shaft with blades directly visible from below. I can see it. It was specially done this way so that it could be cleaned if something gets sucked in there.
Registration: 06/24/08 Messages: 72 Thanks: 1

I have a similar pump
the blades are invisible
avn1! I believe that if you are not familiar with the structure of the drainage system, do not try to restore it yourself, but rather contact a service center. Perhaps its windings burned out when water got inside.
Registration: 06/24/08 Messages: 72 Thanks: 1

I couldn’t find the service, so I decided to open it myself. As it turned out, the engine hums, but does not turn over. The float switch is OK. I tried to rotate the shaft - it seemed to be spinning normally. I turned the pump back on and it hums, but doesn’t turn. I immediately pushed the shaft and it started spinning! I did this several times, after which it started to start on its own. Thanks everyone for your help.
However, after assembly the following questions arose.

On the end of the pump there is something like a six-octagonal plastic cover (the size of a nickel), and in the middle there is a hole through which water flows in (the bulbs are visible). Should this be the case? Maybe he can fix her?

The same bulbs became visible at the junction between the pump body and the power cable and float switch. Maybe the joints should also be siliconized to prevent water from getting in? Or is it not scary?

Please answer urgently, water is already flowing from the hole, it needs to be pumped out, but I don’t want to burn the pump.
Registration: 03/24/09 Messages: 39,655 Thanks: 29,262

Hello avn1! Sorry, I personally have not had to deal with drainage pump repairs. IMHO, I think it’s better to silicone the joints.
Registration: 06/24/08 Messages: 72 Thanks: 1

Thank you, Andrey. That's what I'll do.
Registration: 06/09/11 Messages: 113 Thanks: 5

I have this problem... I have a Gilex 200/10 F drainage pump. I pump it with almost clean water from about a meter deep. the problem is that when you turn it on... the motor starts to work, but the water does not flow... because it weighs on a rope, I pull it several times and it doesn’t immediately, but it starts to pump. a visual inspection revealed nothing. the suction part is clean, nothing is clogged and everything at the outlet is clean.

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Any malfunction of the water supply system at home is the result of an error by the organization or individual involved in its implementation. In this case, the homeowner has a good chance to learn from his mistakes by repairing the electric pump with his own hands and, with a “successful” set of circumstances, improve his health by carrying water manually for some time from the nearest water source.

Rice. 1 Well pump assembled

Troubleshooting algorithm

This sequence of actions applies to all types of pumping equipment, regardless of the location and method of installation. It should be noted that the power supply system of the pump, apart from the wires switched by switches, does not have complex circuits, so if the submersible water pump does not pump water, but starts and hums, problems with the supply of the required supply voltage in the vast majority of cases can be eliminated.

If the drainage pump or well model does not pump water, it may not start if the built-in or external condenser malfunctions and will require repair and replacement.

First of all, repair of electric pumps should begin by turning off the supply voltage, removing it from the water intake source and disconnecting the outlet hose.

When reconnected, the reasons why the pump does not work can be divided into several areas according to the location of the manifestation - we will consider them below.

Rice. 2 Water supply scheme for a private house

Malfunctions of pump protection systems

Typically, a properly assembled water supply system and high-quality pumps have devices that prevent them from operating in idle mode.

In the event of a malfunction of such protective devices: the dry running relay of the well and the float switches of the drains, well or sewage pump, the devices can operate in the absence of water.

Sometimes the float switch of well or drainage pumps, due to improper installation, does not fall along with a drop in the water level (it gets on a hillock or clings to a protruding object) - this leads to the electric pump operating in idling mode and its further failure.

Rice. 3 Popular Gilex pump with float switch

Vibration pumps, which usually do not have external protective devices connected to the system, operating for a long time without water after its level drops, can fail in the absence of built-in thermal protection.

Depressurization or breakage of the water main

The malfunction will help to identify the removal of the deep pump from the water intake source and connection to the supply voltage on the surface. If the pump, lowered into the water for testing, pumps water with the required pressure, then you should look for a leak at the place where the hose is connected to the outlet pipe or in the pipes that are laid underground for regular water supply at home (in a house, a leak can be easily noticed by the presence of water on the floor in a room with pumping equipment).

Mismatch between pump parameters and water intake source

During the dry season or with a sharp increase in water consumption, a situation may occur when the well or well does not have time to fill (the flow rate of the source is too low for normal operation of the pumping equipment). In this case, the electric pump will operate in dry running mode for some time in the absence of a similar relay or float switch in the system.

Clogged water intake system

A very common reason for the lack of water when the pump is running. Similar malfunctions can occur during the installation of pumping equipment: dirt and foreign objects can penetrate into the pipes. During operation, the screens and replaceable filter cartridges become clogged.

Fig.4 Clogged electric pump disassembled

The filters and impeller of the impeller of submersible devices need regular cleaning during operation - if this does not happen, over time they become clogged and the operating pump hums, but does not pump water or does so with low pressure.

A situation often occurs when the pump actuator stops completely when clogged - the impeller does not rotate, and the vibration pump piston does not move. A clogged well or drainage pump removed from a water intake tank does not pump water when turned on superficially - do-it-yourself repairs will require disassembly and further cleaning of the device mechanism.

The pump has failed

The biggest problem that can happen to an electric pump is the burnout of the winding, and the device usually cannot be repaired (rewinding the winding with your own hands is difficult, and in a workshop the cost of work and materials will not be comparable to the price of the electric pump).

With this malfunction, the electric pump will hum, but will not be able to pump water.

Fig.5 Vibration pumps under repair

Sometimes the impeller of borehole and well pumps may break, the system of check valves may fail (they will not allow water to pass through) and the piston ring of vibration models may fail.

Due to constant vibrations during operation, vibration pumps are subject to loosening and unwinding of the mounting mechanism of the composite body, the fixing nuts of the check valve and the piston. These factors can lead to the loss of functionality of a working electric pump, which will hum but not pump water.

Violation of the operating rules for submersible pumps, errors in the installation of the water supply system, a sharp increase in water intake and a decrease in the flow rate of a well or borehole can lead to the hum of a working electric pump, in which water will not flow to the consumer. In most cases, you can repair electric pumps yourself if you remove the device to the surface to accurately determine the problem area.

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Many owners of private plots with sewerage in the form of a cesspool or septic tank pump out the drain themselves, without the use of special equipment in the form of a sewer truck. Using drainage pumps for pumping out sludge deposits is quite profitable: you buy a pump once and use it for at least ten years (if it can withstand heavy loads and such a service life). This option for solving the pumping problem is especially relevant for owners of country houses who are located far from the city, because the call and payment for a sewage disposal truck is calculated in most organizations based on the mileage that the car will need to travel to your cesspool. This option is also perfect for small septic tanks and shallow cesspools, because it is extremely unprofitable to constantly pump out using a sewer truck.

And so you decided to buy a drainage (sewage) pump for your site, you use it constantly, but what to do if the pump breaks? If you have extra money, you can have it repaired, but usually the prices for repairing a sewage pump are very high and it is cheaper to buy a new one. But you can try to repair the drainage pump yourself.

Before searching for the cause of the breakdown, you need to thoroughly rinse the pump. After that, try to turn it on again: perhaps it was not broken and there is no need to repair it, it could simply be clogged with particles of feces. If flushing does not help, then you need to discard all other simple failure options that do not require disassembling the drain pump.

For example, these options may include:

A sudden power outage in the house (oddly enough, but most often the cause of the “breakdown” is precisely this).
Cable break (this option is also possible: check the entire cable for integrity, also check the plug and the socket itself or the extension cord to which the pump is connected).

If all this does not help to find the cause of the pump failure, then you will have to disassemble the pump. You can try to do the repair yourself.

Causes of drainage pump failure

There are many reasons why drainage pumps fail, here are the most common ones:

Violation of operational standards (the device is constantly under overload, it is not fully immersed);
The pump is not regularly maintained;
The pump was not installed correctly;
Perhaps this is a manufacturing defect.

Before starting repairs, it is necessary to exclude the last of the listed options. If you bought a pump recently, check to see if the warranty period, if any, has yet expired. Because if you try to repair the pump yourself, it will no longer be accepted under warranty service.

To prevent pump breakdown, it is necessary to carry out its maintenance on time. Preventive measures to avoid repairing the float drainage pump, points that need to be paid special attention to:

The air entering the pump must flow freely through it and out. If air does not flow freely, then there is an air lock somewhere in the pump.
There should be no visible damage to the piston.
It is necessary to monitor the distance between the valves and the inlet opening.

Mechanical damage in the drain pump

Before repairing a drainage pump with a float, it is necessary to find the cause of its failure. If the previous failure options are not the cause in your case, then try to consider the option of mechanical damage.

In order to somehow check this type of breakdown, you will have to try to rotate the pump blades manually. If the blades rotate easily enough, without much difficulty, then the blades are not the cause of the pump failure. And if the blades are difficult to rotate, then this is most likely the problem with the pump. In this case, the drainage pump will have to be repaired by disassembling.

Also, the cause of mechanical failure can be not only the breakage of the blades. Any small mechanism or part that breaks can cause a breakdown, so the pump will have to be disassembled in any case. For example, if the impeller does not rotate very well, then there may be a breakdown in the bearing system.

One of the main signs of unit failure is its humming and strong heating during operation. Most likely, in this case, the pump will have to be disassembled and the winding replaced.

If you don’t want to carry out repairs, many experts recommend rinsing the fecal pump under running water after each use and pumping it in the same water. Thanks to this, feces will not stick to the mechanism and remain in it, and damage can be avoided

Malfunctions of the Gilex drainage pump

Gilex pumps are among the most popular and are repaired less frequently than others.

The most common cause of Gilex pump failure is engine oil leakage. In this case, it is recommended to entrust the repair to professionals at the service center.

Some people who regularly use such pumps say that it is possible to replace the engine fluid (special oil) with glycerin or some other oily substance. But you should not immediately believe this advice, because this information may be unreliable. Therefore, it’s better not to take risks, because these advisors will not pay you for repairs.

Another problem with the pump from this company is a strong hum during operation and a lack of pressure of pumped water (wastewater). What to do about this problem? Of course, strong humming and weak pressure are not such a serious problem, but it must be solved immediately.

First, you need to rinse the pump from any remaining dirt under running water, and then “drive” clean water through the system, which will wash the internal component of the pump from fecal particles. After this, it is worth checking the operation of the pump in clean water - if it does not work well in it, then you will have to disassemble the pump.

It is necessary to unscrew the corresponding nuts and get inside the pump: see if all the bolts are well secured (it doesn’t matter if the pump is new or you have been using it for more than one year). The most common problem with new pumps is a loose nut securing the impeller. Most likely it wasn't tightened properly at the factory. Tighten the nut yourself, the pump should start working normally. If the pump is still not working well, you will have to seek help from specialists, especially if you are not knowledgeable in this area.

By the way, if your pump is still under warranty, then do nothing - go straight to the service center, taking with you the pump and documents for it (warranty, receipt). Within two weeks, you must either have the repairs made, or get your money back, or be given a new one to replace the old pump.

If the pump is no longer under warranty, but everything is fine with the nuts, then it will be more difficult to find the cause of the breakdown. You will have to completely disassemble the pump. To do this, we can recommend finding (or buying) a three-point screwdriver in advance. If you don’t have one, and you won’t be able to buy one in the near future, then try using an indicator screwdriver for disassembly. It may also be suitable for your pump.

After you have disassembled the entire pump, check all connections: perhaps some wires have oxidized or a wire has broken in some place. If no breaks are observed and the wires are in normal condition, then most likely the cause of the breakdown is a poor (low-quality) connection of the wires. Try connecting the wires using heat shrink and silicone paste. After this, assemble the pump and you can safely go and test the “modified” pump in your sewer well.

If the cause of the breakdown cannot be found, it is better to contact a repair service. Otherwise, you risk completely breaking the device. Better not to tempt fate! Entrust the matter to professionals.

What should I do if the circuit breakers (plugs) are triggered when the pump is turned on?

If you have a problem with plugs knocking out when the pump is running, you should immediately start looking for the cause of the breakdown. The drain pump that triggers the machines requires immediate repair. It is not recommended to carry out repairs yourself, as this is very dangerous; it is better to take the pump to a service center.

What to do if the pump hums but does not pump out?

In this case, most likely, the breakdown will be the unscrewing of the nuts around the shock absorbers or a worn out valve. You can solve these problems yourself. The pump will need to be disassembled and get to these same nuts. They need to be tightened, for this you can use your own wrench. If the nuts are rusty, it would be better to replace them completely so that they do not become “rooted” from rust.

You can also replace the valve yourself. Even if there is no severe damage to it, but only minor damage, it is recommended to replace it with a new one. To do this, you need to pick up in the store exactly the same valve as installed in your pump. You can do the replacement yourself by disassembling the entire pump and using special tools.

The pump constantly overheats

To prevent constant overheating of the pump, do not overload it. You need to give him a rest at least every hour and a half. There is no special cooler for the pump; it is cooled by the liquid that it passes through itself. If the pump runs for too long, the water itself begins to heat up, especially in the summer, which is why it will be necessary to take short breaks of ten to twenty minutes in the operation of the pump.

The article listed only the main reasons for the breakdown of drainage pumps. Before you begin repairing drainage pumps, you need to find the exact cause of the breakdown. If you haven’t found exactly your case from the listed problems, then it’s better not to undertake repairs at all, especially on your own.

You can only undertake repairs to the drainage pump if you are confident that you have correctly identified the cause of the breakdown. Also, you should not undertake repairs if you do not understand the fecal pump system at all. If your device is still under warranty, then do not repair it yourself, because you can only damage the device, and the service center will either repair or completely replace the unit completely free of charge (if this is stated in the warranty card).

Never overload the drainage pump - malfunctions will not be long in coming. If you are not confident in your abilities and doubt even a little, it is better to consult with someone who really understands this area.

Repair of drainage pumps is a very important solution to the problem for long-term operation of devices in good condition. It is no secret that this unit cannot be replaced for its sites during the period of melting snow or heavy rains, when excess water can cause a lot of damage to buildings, flooding basements or washing away the foundation of a house.
Using a drainage pump, you can pump out water from a pool or pit, or from any tank. This article suggests how to repair a drainage pump with your own hands.

What types of drainage pumps are there?

According to their purpose, such pumps for pumping out dirty liquid are divided into:

. This type of device is used for pumping liquid from small tanks.
The unit is installed on the ground, at the edge of the drainage pit. To pump out waste, a hose is lowered to the bottom of the container.
When the pump is operating in automatic mode, it is necessary to connect a float mechanism to the activation lever; it will monitor the water level in the tank or pit. When the wastewater rises above a certain level, the float rises along with it and turns on the equipment.

Such a device must have two pipes:

entrance, for sucking water from the waste pit;
outlet through which the liquid is discharged beyond its boundaries.

During operation, it is necessary to ensure that no water gets into the engine, which can lead to damage to the device. Therefore, pumping of wastewater must be carried out faster than its level in the pit can rise.

Tip: Pumps are connected to the sewer system through pipes. In this case, when installing the unit, it is necessary that the diameter of the sewer pipe be known quite accurately, down to the millimeter.

The main advantage of surface drainage devices is their mobility. The device can be easily moved to any place, and if repairs are necessary, it can be performed quickly and easily.

. Such models are most often used to clean deep containers and during large-scale flooding, to eliminate excess water. In this case, the units are lowered into a container or pit, from where the liquid needs to be pumped out, and water is sucked in through holes located in their bottom, and not through the inlet hoses for drainage pumps.
The mesh filters of the devices protect it from stones and other large particles entering the pump impeller.

The use of a float or plastic bubble allows, with a certain volume of wastewater, to automatically turn on the submersible pump. To prevent a possible short circuit when the device is immersed in liquid, manufacturers have provided high-quality electrical insulation.
The undeniable advantages of drainage pumping equipment for liquids are:

Versatility.
Long service life.
There is no need for mandatory regular maintenance.

If you need to pump out or pump heavily contaminated liquid, it is better to prefer sewer or sewage pumps. They have a special cutting or chopping tool and can pump and process liquid that contains large household waste.

Advice: In this case, it is better to use an automatic sewerage station, which allows you to put into operation bathrooms that do not have a connection to public sewerage.

Design and principle of operation of drainage pumps

The main elements of the drainage pump are:

Engine. If the price of the pump is small, the motor is located in an internal housing made of plastic.
The capacitor motor, which has a thermal protection switch that prevents overload, is available in more expensive upgraded units. Here:

the housings are made of high-strength polypropylene, with fiberglass reinforcement; it is possible to make the pump housing from stainless steel or plastic, and stainless steel is used for the motor housing and shaft;
the operating shaft is made of stainless steel.

The housing is internal.
External housing.
or impeller, are located on a shaft in the outer casing of the pump. The wheel configuration determines the size of dirt particles the pumps can pass through.

When the pump operates, the space between the housings is filled with water, forming a cooling “jacket” that protects the unit from overheating.

For automatic shutdown and startup, the pumps are equipped with float switches that control the water level in the tank, protect the device from dry running and flooding, and monitor the timely activation of the pump.

High-quality work with a long service life of the pump can be obtained if the content of fibrous inclusions is minimal and the size of solid particles does not exceed 5 mm. The smaller the installation depth, the better.

Tip: The operation of drainage pumps with elevated wastewater temperatures is limited to a certain time, which is indicated in the operating instructions. This is due to the fact that engine cooling occurs when heat is released into the liquid that is pumped.

What criteria are used to select drainage pumps?

There are several rules that must be followed when choosing a unit:

Consider the type of liquid being pumped. Determine what particle size it can pump without problems.
Study the basic parameters of the drainage pump, which will help you choose the most suitable model. These values include:

pressure This value for an average productivity product is approximately 7 to 10 meters. High-pressure models can achieve a pressure of more than 30 meters. The pressure indicators of the device will depend on the distance to which the liquid will be supplied;
performance. For example, for a tank with a volume of 40 m3, a device with a capacity of up to 10 m3/hour is sufficient. To use units for industrial purposes, you will need models with a productivity of 100 m3/hour or even more;
pump immersion depth. Its maximum value can vary from 5 to 15 meters, and the minimum is only from 0.3 to 0.9 meters.

Advice: When operating the unit, the pumping part must be located under water.

A general view of the drainage pump is shown in the photo.

The service life of the device is directly affected by:

The quality of the material used for the manufacture of device elements.
Temperature of the pumped liquid. It should not exceed +50°C.
Nominal diameter. This indicator affects the amount of suspended matter and solid particles in the liquid.
Overheating protection available. Most often, models have two built-in devices:

float switch, needed to prevent engine overheating;
Thermal relay turns off the power when the water level reaches a critical level.

Repair of submersible pumps

Sometimes a situation arises when repairs are needed. In this case, it is first necessary to find out the cause of the breakdown.
Most often these can be:

Incorrect operation of the equipment - exceeding the operating parameters of the device.
Long period between maintenance.
Operation of the unit “dry”. If used for a long time in this mode, the pump may fail.
Solid inclusions in the liquid for pumping are too large.
The equipment was not installed properly.

Faulty: relay, hydraulic accumulator, missing filter, other manufacturing defects.

All these reasons can lead to rapid wear and tear of the device.
If the cost of the unit is too high, then you can repair the drainage pump yourself, but only for those who have the skills to handle such units.
When the first signs of improper operation of the submersible pump appear, it is necessary to check the condition and functionality of the following elements:

The piston must have elasticity; its shape must not show any deformation or any mechanical damage.
When air is blown into the liquid intake side, it should flow freely on both sides.
The optimal distance between the piston and the electromagnet coils should be from 0.4 to 0.5 cm. With a larger gap, the coils will beat, with a smaller gap, the motor will overheat.
Between the valve that closes the inlet holes and the body, the gap should be from 0.7 to 0.8 mm.

Advice: Very often, poor performance of equipment is not caused by the failure of any elements, but by a voltage drop in the electrical network. Therefore, before starting disassembly and starting self-repair of submersible pumps, you must first check the voltage in the network; it should be 200-240V. If everything is fine here, you can begin disassembling, having previously made special notches on the joining areas of the device.

The video in this article shows in detail how to repair a drainage pump yourself. Only timely troubleshooting of the unit will allow it to be used for a long time without any problems.