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Assembling the drainage system of a private house. How to make drainage in a summer cottage with your own hands - a step-by-step guide to drainage with photos and videos

If stains or traces of moisture become visible on the walls of the room, this is a sure sign of poor waterproofing. To avoid premature destruction of the building, the appearance of mold and rot, it is imperative to arrange drainage around the house.

Purpose

Drainage is a drainage system that is used to eliminate excess liquid around a house, garden, or site. Moisture can appear near a house due to various conditions: high groundwater levels, severe melting, or a special type of soil (clay, crushed stone, loam). The drainage system is also used in courtyards, where, due to the inconvenient location of the house, the water cannot drain away on its own or, on the contrary, drains too quickly, leaving the ground dry and lifeless.

When you need to install drainage around your house:

If liquid accumulates in the basement during snow melting or heavy rainfall;
If your region has a high groundwater level;
When the foundation of a house is regularly washed away with water;
A capillary network appears on the floor or some areas of the building are susceptible to mold.

Installing drainage can be easily done with your own hands; in most cases, a perimeter system for draining the foundation around a private house is used. For more complex cases, it is possible to use a complex natural type system. This is the arrangement of a number of drains, in which there are main (main) and additional. This technique is used on swampy soils or a very large plot of land.

How to do

There are two types of dehumidification that are used most often by craftsmen:

Superficial;
Deep.

Surface or storm water is a drain that is protected by a special mesh. Water enters the pipeline after rain and melting snow. The system is located at a certain angle to the building, which allows moisture to be removed in any quantity. Such surface drainage has proven itself well in warm regions with high levels of average annual precipitation.

Photo: surface drainage

The deep system is more complex, but it is also considered much more effective than the surface one. The laying depth is determined by calculating the ratio of the size and depth of the foundation and the level of soil freezing. The type of soil also plays a big role. To drain groundwater in this way, a separate pipeline or simply a paved trench can be used.

It is mandatory to install wells at a certain distance from the drains into which waste water is collected. Afterwards it can be used for irrigation or simply go into deeper layers of the earth.

Correct drainage around the house also involves developing a design (a diagram with structural details). Using this drawing, you can determine which type of system is most preferable for you, as well as create a rough estimate for the work. You can use the services of specialists, or develop a scheme yourself.

Video on the topic:

Step-by-step instructions on how to make proper drainage around the house:

Calculate the communication distance from the foundation. It is very important that drains do not touch already laid sewerage and water supply pipes. You can lay a wall drainage, it will run almost close to the base of the building, or more distant - at a distance of 1.5 - 2 meters from the wall;
Afterwards you need to dig a trench. Its depth depends on the groundwater level, the preferred type of drainage system and the level of ground freezing. You can obtain all the necessary data from the geological bureau of your region;
It is necessary to dig in a place where there is no sewage system, otherwise there is a possibility of breaking its tightness;
The drainage must be connected to a septic tank or drainage well. To equip it, a cylindrical hole is dug in the lowest place of the site, in which a plastic barrel or concrete rings are placed (depending on your needs). Installation is carried out simultaneously with the installation of drains, i.e. the trenches must be connected to the septic tank. If everything is done correctly, then high waters themselves will flow into the prepared place;
When the trench is ready, sand is poured onto its bottom, which will act as a filter layer. There are several options for arranging the drain itself. You can lay it with construction waste, placing large stones on the bottom and reducing their size as they approach the surface. Some craftsmen use drainage from plastic bottles, brushwood, and boards for such purposes. For a country house, you can use improvised means, for example, bricks, but for a residential country cottage it is better to work with plastic pipes;
Afterwards you need to insulate the drainage around the house. If you are organizing a drainage system from scrap materials, then thermal insulation is not needed, but when working with a plastic pipeline it is necessary. For this purpose, communications are covered with geotextiles. The installation technology is similar to the insulation of sewer pipes - each drain is wrapped in material and additionally strengthened with clamps;
Afterwards, the drainage area is filled up or covered with a mesh, depending on whether it is superficial or deep. In case of deep construction, the embankment must be made in a hill so that depressions and holes do not appear when the earth settles. On a large area, the ditch can be covered with a blind area. For example, a sheet of slate or a path made of bricks, then the drainage will be completely invisible to the prying eye;
Every six months you need to inspect the septic tank and clean it of silt and dirt.

Advice from homeowners with a vegetable garden: you can put fertilizer at the bottom of the trench - then the waste water will become a source of necessary minerals. In this case, it can be used in the future for watering the garden.

If the size of your local area allows you, you can make a much simpler drainage system. In the lowest place of the land share, a hole is dug for a lake; it is naturally filled with water. With the right approach and organization, in the future it will be possible to create an excellent landscape design with interesting elements. For example, put fish in an artificial pond or decorate it with lilies and other water-loving plants. For the reason that the ode will flow into the “pit”, she will leave the house. If you solve the problem in this way, then do not forget to regularly clean the lake so that it does not flood and turn into a swamp

Price

The cost of arranging drainage around the house depends on the materials you will use to make the drainage system (for example, the price of construction waste is a pittance). To work at the dacha, you can take the most affordable filters: wooden boards (fold them crosswise and install them with their ends on the walls of the trench), stones, fragments of bricks, slate. For the drainage system of a wooden or brick residential building, it is worth taking more complex and expensive materials - plastic pipes, old metal communications, and even a pipe made from plastic bottles is suitable for low precipitation levels.

Be sure to take care of insulation. If it is not possible to buy geotextiles for drainage, then cover the pipes with unnecessary rags or even humus. This will help prevent the system from freezing during the cold season.

Many developers decide to build a house with a basement. The cost of building a basement is comparable to the cost of building a regular floor.

Only non-residential, auxiliary premises can be located in the basement - laundry, gym, sauna, boiler room, workshop, storage room, etc. All these rooms could be located on a regular floor or attic with better comfort and convenience.

In the recent past, it was customary to build houses on deep strip foundations. The construction of a basement in such a house was indeed beneficial - the foundation served as the outer walls of the basement premises.

Application in modern low-rise construction of lightweight structures and makes it unprofitable to install a basement in the house.

However, lovers of tradition and solidity often choose a house with a basement on a deep strip foundation. To comfortably use the rooms in the basement, The basement must be protected from ground moisture.

How to protect your basement or basement from water and dampness

is constantly present. The groundwater level, the amount of perched water, and soil moisture on the site vary with the seasons of the year and depend on the structure and properties of the soil, the amount of precipitation, the terrain and the type of coverage on the site.

If the house is located on a slope, then, as a rule, it is necessary to drain water flowing down the slope away from the house. Water flows down the slope both on the surface and along underground horizons.

To protect the basement from water, two lines of defense are arranged:

A ring drain around the house, at the level of the base of the foundation, which intercepts and removes from the basement walls most of the water tending to flood the basement.
Waterproofing of basement walls and floors, designed primarily to protect against capillary soil moisture.

Only basement waterproofing, without drainage, leads to the water still finds a hole. If not immediately, then in a few years. A damp basement is money down the drain.

If you decide to make a basement or ground floor in your house, then I definitely recommend doing wall drainage, you won't regret it.

Wall drainage is done simultaneously with the construction of the foundation. Its cost is minimal, compared to the cost of protecting an already flooded or damp basement from water.

If you want to take a risk, save on a drainage device and abandon its device, then conduct thorough research. Assess seasonal fluctuations in groundwater levels at the site. Does it appear in the spring? Find out from your neighbors if they have drainage, if their basement is flooded.

The lack of drainage, as a rule, will require strengthening the waterproofing of the foundation and increasing the cost of its installation.

The design of the wall drainage is adapted solely to protect the basement or the ground floor from the water. If it is necessary to solve other problems, for example, lower the groundwater level throughout the entire area or reduce water saturation, then other types of drainage are used.

The installation of wall drainage around the basement is, as a rule, mandatory:

With a constant or seasonal rise in the groundwater level above the base of the foundation.
If perched water appears on the site in the spring.

For a house located on a slope, on the side of water flowing down the slope.
If there is a waterproof layer of soil on the site.

The last condition is caused by this. To reduce the forces of frost heaving, the soil cushion of the foundation and the cavity of the foundation pit are usually covered with permeable soil. If the soil on the site is waterproof, then the surface water will seep into the permeable foundation backfill and accumulate there.

Where to direct water from the roof

Water flowing from the roof through drainpipes should not seep into the ground next to the walls of the house.

You can find a description of the design of a drainage system that directs water from the roof into wall drainage pipes. Wall drainage pipes in this case have a dual purpose - they serve both to collect groundwater around the foundation and to transport water from the roof.

Using leaky wall drainage pipes to also move water from the roof is quite risky, and usually ends up flooding the basement during heavy rain.

It is best to install a separate drainage system to drain water from the roof and surface runoff from areas on the site.

Sectional view of wall drainage around the foundation of a house

(click on the picture to enlarge)

Scheme of ring wall drainage of a house basement

Drainage pipes - drains, are laid along the foundation walls and create a protective ring around the house. At the corners the ring of drains breaks in the drainage wells. The water collected by drains is discharged into a storage, prefabricated well.

Water can be removed from a prefabricated storage well in several directions:

Used on the site for household needs and watering plantings.
Drop onto the terrain outside the site.
Filter into the underlying layers of soil.
Head to the central sewer of the village.

The method of using drainage water is chosen based on local conditions and the desires of the home owner.

To discharge drainage water into the central sewer system of the village, according to the rules, permission from the owner of the sewerage network and payment for services for receiving and transporting wastewater are required.

In drainage wells, soil particles settle, settle to the bottom and accumulate, which are carried by water in drains. In addition, the wells are used to monitor the proper operation of the drainage system and periodically, as necessary, wash the drainage area with a stream of water to remove sediments that have accumulated there.

Drainage wells are installed at the turning angles of the route, when the slope or height difference changes, as well as on straight sections every 40-50 meters. It is not necessary to install a well at turning corners if the distance from the corner to the nearest well is no more than 20 meters. The absence of wells at two corners of rotation in a row is not allowed.

Slope of drainage pipes

The length of the drainage section between adjacent drainage wells should be no more than 50 meters. Drains are laid with a slope of more than 0.5% (0.5 cm per 1 meter of pipe length) towards the collection well.

The angle of inclination is selected so that at the bottom mark of the drainage ring around the house the bottom edge of the drain is placed at 20 cm(to the height of the gravel backfill) above the base of the foundation. At the top mark of the ring, the sole of the drain should be located at 20 cm. below the floor level in the basement.

It is not allowed to bury wall drainage (including gravel backfill) into the sandy foundation cushion, so as not to reduce the load-bearing capacity of the pillow and foundation.

To place pipes with the required slope sometimes it is necessary to increase the distance between the base of the foundation and the floor level in the basement more than is required for design reasons. This makes foundation construction more expensive.

In this case It can be advantageous to abandon the construction of wall drainage and perform remote drainage. Remote drainage pipes are laid at a distance of 1-3 m. from the foundation. In this case, the bottom elevation of the drains may be lower than the base of the foundation.

It can also be advantageous to install remote drainage to protect an already built house with a basement.

Ring wall drainage device

How to make wall drainage with your own hands is clear from the drawings, which show the whole process step by step.

Geotextiles

Geotextiles are synthetic fabrics specifically designed for laying in the ground. The material allows water to pass through, but retains soil particles. The drainage design prevents siltation of soil particles into the filter backfill, drainage slabs and pipes.

Filtering, draining layer on the foundation wall

On the foundation wall Drainage slabs or drainage mats are placed on top of the waterproofing. Special permeable slabs or mats made of polymer material intercept water that seeps into the foundation wall. Through channels in the slabs or mats, the water flows down to the gravel layer and then enters the drainage pipes.

In addition, drainage slabs or mats protect the waterproofing from mechanical damage.

The drainage slab is separated from the soil by a layer of geotextile. Manufacturers produce drainage mats with a layer of geotextile already attached to their surface.

Drainage slabs can be easily made with your own hands. The slabs are cast from Expanded clay of the largest and lightest fractions (20-40 mm and more), slabs made of this material will not only drain water, but also serve as insulation for the basement walls. Slabs with a thickness of at least 100 mm. laid out dry with a bandage along the basement wall and covered with a geotextile cloth.

For insulating basement walls, instead of drainage slabs Insulation boards - extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 100 - are glued pointwise onto the waterproofing of the foundation. mm, A profiled plastic membrane and geotextile are fixed on top of the insulation boards.

Membranes with geotextile fabric already attached to their surface are available for sale. Through the membrane channels, the water that has leaked through the geotextile flows down to the gravel coating of the drainage pipe. The membrane also protects the insulation from damage by soil.

Drainage pipes

Corrugated plastic perforated drainage pipes with holes evenly spaced on the surface are available for sale on the construction market. The outside of the pipes is covered with a layer of geotextile, which protects the pipes from clogging with soil particles.

For installation of wall drainage, pipes with a diameter of at least 100 are used. mm.

The pipes are joined together using special couplings. At angles of rotation, it is recommended to join pipes with two fittings with a rotation angle other than 90 degrees. As a result, the rotation of the pipe will be smoother.

Drainage wells

Drainage wells are assembled from ready-made plastic sections with a diameter of about 300 mm.

You can use any other pipes of approximately the specified size. The bottom of the well should be 200-500 below the level of the drainage pipes mm.

Every two to three years, the wells are cleaned and the drainage pipes are washed with a stream of water.

Prefabricated storage well

The water collected by the drainage system is discharged into a prefabricated storage well. A well is a reservoir where a certain amount of drainage water accumulates. From the reservoir, using a submersible drainage pump, water is periodically pumped out in a certain direction, for example, into a surface drain and then onto the terrain outside the site.

The capacity of the well - the volume from the bottom to the supply pipe, is chosen large enough so that the frequency of pumping out water is not burdensome for the owners.

If the pumping process is automated, then the volume of the well and the degree of concern of the owners can be significantly reduced. To do this, a stationary drainage pump equipped with a float switch is installed in the well and electricity is supplied.

In the latter case, for the construction of a small-volume collection well It is convenient to use the same design as for a drainage well. In order to increase the volume and ensure the operation of the pump, the collection well is made deeper than the drainage well.

It is necessary to ensure that The water level in the collection well did not rise above the level of the drainage pipes.

Drainage water from a collection well can be pumped into an underground container, where it is accumulated and used for watering plantings, washing cars and other household needs. This is beneficial if in the same container direct surface drainage water from the roof of the house and from the sites on the site.

The design of the storage tank is similar to the design of a septic tank for an autonomous sewer system. For example, such a reservoir in the shape of a well, like a septic tank, is made from. You can also use plastic containers.

Water from the roof and surface drainage system under no circumstances should it fall into drainage system. Drainage cannot cope with the removal of large amounts of water during a rainstorm, and rainwater through the drainage can flood the basement. Pipes and wells of drainage and drainage systems must be isolated from each other.

If on site the groundwater level is low, and the lower layer of soil on the site is permeable, then the prefabricated well can be made in the form. Water from the well will seep into the permeable soil layer. The depth of the well should be such that the filtration zone is located in a permeable soil layer.

Protection of the drainage system from freezing

Drainage system - drains, wells at the level of drains and below, in winter must be located in a non-freezing layer of soil. It is known that in spring water appears on the surface of the earth much earlier than the soil frozen at depth thaws. Frozen drainage will not be able to remove water from the foundation.

The soil surrounding the drainage may freeze if located higher. For example, for the Moscow region, the calculated depth will be 0.7 m. This development of events is especially likely if the basement of the house is not heated or well insulated.

In case of danger of freezing, the soil is insulated, laying slabs of PSB 35 foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 100 under the blind area of the building mm.

DIY drainage system around the house - design instructions

Are you designing a house and are thinking about simultaneously installing a drainage system around it? Or maybe the house has been ready for a long time, but dampness in the basement disrupts the harmony and comfort in your home? In both cases, this is a necessary measure that should not be forgotten. multitude. Let's take a closer look at how to lay communications to remove moisture around the house with your own hands.

How to make a foundation with your own hands

Drainage is a system of pipes laid at an angle in special trenches and equipped with inspection wells. Excess moisture from the soil, accumulating in perforated pipes, flows by gravity into the storage well.

We design a drainage system

The effectiveness of the entire system depends on the accuracy of its design. Therefore, it is worth paying due attention to this stage of preparation.

The design of a drainage system begins with geological studies: determining the type of soil, the maximum groundwater level, the highest and lowest point of the site. The entire site is plotted on the plan, indicating trees, structures, and the building itself to scale. You can use checkered paper or a graphic editor. The drains will be laid along the perimeter of the house (at a distance of no more than 1 meter and at a depth just below the foundation level, the optimal slope of the trenches is 3 cm per 1 linear meter), and should be located at the lowest point of the site. Following this rule, we indicate on the drawing the laying of pipes, places for installing inspection/rotary wells and the discharge point (rotary wells should be located at every turn of the pipes, inspection wells - every 30-40 meters on straight sections of the pipeline).

Selecting drainage pipes and preparing for excavation work

So, the plan has been drawn up, it’s time to start purchasing materials for installing a drainage system around the house.

Pipes for drainage systems are made from: plastic (with a smooth wall or corrugated), “Perfokor” (plastic pipes with mineral additives), asbestos cement, ceramics. Pipes have different diameters and stiffness classes; additionally, filters can be built-in to prevent clogging of the perforation. Pipes Ø100-110 mm are suitable for drainage, and the lower the level of drainage, the stronger the material should be.

It is not recommended to use flexible plastic pipes for drainage due to the difficulty of maintaining an exact slope and possible silt deposits in places of minor bends during operation. You can make your own drains from smooth-walled orange plastic sewer pipes by simply drilling a sufficient number of holes in the walls.

Do not forget to purchase other materials for arranging the drainage system: fittings (tees, adapters, couplings, plugs), material for constructing the walls of inspection wells (for example, plastic rings or plastic pipes), manhole covers for inspection wells, silicone sealant, crushed stone, sand, cement, geotextile (non-woven material capable of transmitting water and retaining sand and soil particles), shovels, building level and tape measure, nylon cord. You will also need a waterproofing compound to cover the foundation.

Excavation and waterproofing works

Excavation work, which can be done manually or with an excavator, begins with digging a trench around the perimeter of the building, which should be located at a distance of half a meter from the foundation and lie 30 cm below it (at the highest point of the site). From this highest point on the site, the trenches should slope towards the catchment point by at least 1 cm/m.

The walls of the trench can be made rectangular or trapezoidal. The second option is more convenient on loose, crumbling soils. The width of the trenches is assumed to be equal to the diameter of the drainage pipes with a margin of 40-50 cm (for pipes with a diameter of 100 cm, the trench width will be about one and a half meters). Check the accuracy of excavation work using beacons or a level stretched along the bottom of the trench.

At each turn of the trench and every 30-50 meters of straight sections it is necessary to dig small pits for inspection wells. During the digging process, do not forget to remove sharp stones, large clods of earth and foreign objects from the soil that could damage the drains.

Laying the filter layer and assembling drains

When the trench around the perimeter has been dug with the proper slope, the pits for the wells are ready, you can proceed to further actions.

If you have a sufficient amount of geotextile, lay this material at the bottom of the trench (with allowance for the walls). If you saved money and did not purchase geotextiles, then the bottom of the trench should be covered with a ten-centimeter layer of compacted sand. Next, a layer of fine gravel about 10 cm thick should be poured onto the geotextile or sand. You can begin assembling the drains.

If your pipes do not have filters to protect drainage holes from clogging, wrap them in one layer of geotextile and secure it with polymer twine.

Pipes must be laid in the center of the trenches, connecting them into a single closed loop with fittings and couplings (during assembly, it is advisable to use 2 fittings with 45° angles at turns, avoiding installing fittings with right angles to avoid possible blockages). It is advisable to coat all joints with silicone sealant. If the holes on the drainage pipes are located only on one side, then the pipes are laid with these holes down. Do not forget to install rotary and inspection wells, providing them with covers and plugs at the bottom. Install a drain into which all water collected in the drains will be discharged. The height of the wells (including the receiving well) is selected based on the depth of the trench and the need for easy access to the hatch after completing landscaping work near the house.

After installation work, the pipes should be covered with a layer of crushed stone, after which this filtering layer of backfill should be covered with the edges of the geotextile laid on the bottom at the very beginning (crushed stone is poured just above the lower level of the grillage).

Video - Do-it-yourself drainage system around the house

Ring drainage system around the house

Ring drainage is installed in cases where the house has already been erected and the blind area has been laid. There are no main technological differences between ring and wall, except for the following points:

the trench must be laid along the perimeter of the house at a distance of up to three meters from the foundation, while all the rules of earthworks, including slope and depth, remain unchanged;
after laying drains and installing wells, you should fill in a ten-centimeter layer of crushed stone, wrap it with the free edges of geotextile, and then fill the soil to zero level;
Instead of constructing a blind area, the backfilled ring drainage trenches are covered with a thin layer of gravel (or turf) and decorated like a ring path leading to the spillway point.

How to make linear foundation drainage with your own hands

Linear drainage involves laying drainage trays in the area adjacent to the house, and can also be installed around the perimeter of the building (including near the front door) to collect and drain surface water. The system of communicating gutters (trays) can be supplemented with point rainwater inlets for collecting rainwater from the roof and sand traps with connected drainage pipes through which water will be drained into a collector well. The system protects the building foundation and blind area from the harmful effects of excess moisture.

Preparing a linear drainage plan

In a graphics editor or on checkered paper, we draw a plan of the buildings on the site (top view). Next, we mark the line for laying linear drainage around the perimeter, designate places for installing point rainwater inlets, door grilles, and the water discharge point (the drainage well should be located at the lowest point of the site).

We purchase materials

For work you will need: trowels, shovels, cement, sand, roofing felt or roofing felt, sealant, trays with grates, sand traps, plugs, drainage pipes, nylon cord, building level, grinder.

Excavation and installation work

You can only step on drainage trays after the cement has dried. During operation, the trays should be periodically cleaned with a jet, removing the waste collection baskets.

You can learn more about the intricacies of installing a surface drainage system from the video tutorial.

Sand trap prices

sand trap

Video - Surface drainage around the house

Drainage tray installation diagram

Starting construction a small country house or a respectable cottage, everyone expects that his brainchild will stand for more than one ten years and will serve growing children and even grandchildren.
How long will it last? built house- depends primarily on correctly executed grounds.
But even quality foundation will not help if he is in constant conditions dampness caused by the presence of moisture in the surrounding soil.

Water can penetrate into the ground after rain, when snow melts, and the most unpleasant case is if the area is high groundwater level(UGV).

What is it and what is its purpose
To avoid flooding foundation by rain, melt or groundwater and serves drainage system, which is a collection of devices intended for removal excess moisture: trays, channels, trenches, wells and so on.

Drainage systems are used for foundation protection a separate building or the entire site, if it is located in an area with low relief. This article discusses drainage systems for foundations house under construction.

Main types of drainage structures

Trenches of this type are used to drain surface water when the area on which the house under construction is located has practically no no slope or even in small depression.

After prolonged rains, you can only approach such a house in rubber boots, not to mention spring flood.

Using open ground trenches they organize collection and disposal surface water into the sewer system, a special collection well, or off-site, if possible.

Open systems are easy to make, but they spoil the landscape and are unsafe when walking - you can easily trip.

Closed

Such drainage is a more effective solution for draining soil on significant depth- up to one and a half meters.

Represents a system filter pipes, placed in water-permeable material: small crushed stone, gravel, expanded clay

For this purpose, special perforated pipes with numerous holes small diameter.

You can also use regular plastic sewer pipes by drilling holes using an electric drill. The design of such a system is much more complex and expensive.

Backfill

Used for a small area backfill drainage trenches. They successfully remove both surface and groundwater.

In this case, there is no need to spend money on purchasing pipes and related accessories (angles, tees, gratings, etc.). Ditches are dug to a depth of 1 to 1.5 m the perimeter of the house at some distance and fill them with broken bricks or crushed stone of large fractions.

It is better to cover this backfill with a strip of geotextile on top, and then fill it earth with laying turf. True, they cannot be cleaned after silting.

Superficial

There is nothing more than open drainage. It has 2 varieties: point and line.

Point drainage

Perform for local lead water (from one point). For example, from a drainpipe, from a garden shower or watering tap.

If there is a place on the site where often accumulates water, it is easiest to get rid of it using this method. The device is water intake, usually purchased, laid flush with the surface of the ground in the required location.

Concrete or plastic are attached to it trays, laid with a slope of about 1 degree in the direction of water drainage. The top of the trays is covered with metal or plastic bars.

Linear drainage

If several point receivers combine into one general drainage main, you get a linear drainage system.

It should be recalled that point and linear systems only assign superficial water

The final destination could be storm drain, receiving sump or filter well.

Deep

If the house is located in the lowlands, or at depth there is a waterproof clay layer, as well as at high groundwater level quantity underground water will be large.

In this case, deep drainage should be performed closed type, the device of which is described above. To avoid clogging drainage pipes, make inspection (cleaning) pipes wells of such a size that you can put your hand into it.

Position cleaning elements follows in corner, T-shaped junctions and through 10–12 meters of underground communications. Depending on the location relative to the foundation, deep drainage can be wall or ring.

Wall drainage

Arranged when there is a basement or basement. A trench is dug close to the wall of the strip foundation.

You can avoid additional excavation work if you do it when laying the foundation. The depth of the shallowest point should be approximately 20 cm greater than the depth of the sole.

The pipe is being laid inside drainage layer of gravel, small crushed stone or expanded clay, wrapping everything with geotextile fabric.

When backfilling a ditch with soil, a layer of clean coarse-grained soil is poured close to the side surface of the foundation. river sand, with layer-by-layer compaction 25–30 cm thick.

You should first coat the foundation wall with a layer of greasy crumpled clay(clay castle).

Ring drainage

Performed if there is no basement in the house. In this case, a trench is dug after the construction of the house is completed at a distance of 1.5–3 m from the foundation.

We carry out drainage ourselves

Best time to make

Drainage system is best build in summer, although in the heat it’s tempting to rest in the shade

And the ground at this time can be so dry that you can even pick it with a crowbar. Despite these negative aspects, there is no better time of year to do this work.

in spring, after the snow melts, the ground remains damp for a long time. If a drainage system is made at this time, by autumn the earth will settle, and it may the seal is broken connections of drainage pipes, which will require further additional time to eliminate defects.

On autumn months hope is frivolous, inclement rains may result in work having to be rescheduled until next summer season.

Preparing for installation

More attention should be paid to preparation for production drainage around a residential building. Lack of thoughtfulness in the layout of the device can lead to unnecessary excavation work or the purchase of unnecessary building materials, which will then uselessly occupy storage space.

Before starting work, it is necessary to draw up a large-scale site plan indicating elevation marks, select a location for placement settling well.

If you plan to drain wastewater for the territory of the site, it is necessary to obtain permission from the local sanitary and epidemiological station (SES). Otherwise, all the work may be in vain, and money may be wasted.

Required Tools

For making drainage system You won't need many tools. Most of them, as a rule, are available to each owner:

measuring tape 30–50 m long;
building level;
hydraulic level up to 50 m long;
bayonet and shovel shovels;
wheelbarrow.

Instead of a hydraulic level, it’s a good idea to purchase an optical or laser level level. The laser device will be useful for interior decoration of a house under construction.

Experience shows that the hydraulic level has an unpleasant property “lie” during the measurement process. This happens due to the fact that the connecting hose can get air bubbles, which lead to distortion of the result.

Making drainage

Let's consider making a drainage system around the house with your own hands. Let's do this using the example of constructing a deep wall drainage(meaning that the drainage system is being built simultaneously with the construction of the foundation):

Making a drainage well

At the end of the drainage system they erect filter or overflow drainage well. If it is not possible to drain water from it directly at the location, you will have to pump out the water using submersible pump.

For well installation you can purchase ready-made concrete or plastic sections and assemble them into a finished structure. Purchased rings from reinforced concrete during installation will create difficulties due to heavy weight.

Alternatively, you can cast a well made of concrete directly at the place of its installation.

Done according to all rules drainage system along the perimeter of the house under construction will save foundation from exposure to moisture, thanks to which the waterproofing will retain its protective functions for a long time, the basement will be dry, and the walls of the house will serve more than one generation.

In a private house there are several places that need to be protected from getting wet from the outside. These are the foundation and buried buildings. Rainwater, all kinds of drains and rising groundwater gradually destroy the monolithic foundations and walls of basements. A properly equipped drainage system around the house can prevent this process from occurring. It is capable of removing excess moisture from structures. Even a very good blind area cannot compare in terms of protection for a house with a installed drainage system. It is highly recommended to install such a system near every house, regardless of the presence of a basement or ground floor.

A high-quality drainage system around the house with your own hands can be made in several options:

Features of different foundation drainage systems

The choice of a specific type of drainage depends on the presence of buried rooms, the depth of groundwater, the composition of the soil on the site and the topography of the site itself. Let's consider what features the drainage system around the house has.

In total, there are 3 types of drainage, which differ in their location and design:

Important: Please note that reservoir drainage does not replace another type of drainage, but only complements it. Therefore, in addition to it, a main drainage system must be installed.

Please note that if you decide to make a ring drainage around the house with your own hands, the system should be located 0.5 m below the foundation level. This arrangement will ensure high-quality drainage of groundwater from the building at any time of the year.

And if you are thinking about this, then you may find our separate material on this topic useful.

Drainage installation

Let's look at how to make a drainage system around the house in two ways.

Manufacturing of wall drainage

Before carrying out the work, it is necessary to prepare the foundation, since the system will be directly adjacent to it.

To do this, the following work is carried out:

The foundation from the outside is primed with a special bitumen primer.
Bitumen mastic is applied to the dried surface.
A reinforcing mesh with 2 x 2 mm cells is glued onto the mastic.
The next day, after the mastic has hardened, a second layer of mastic is again applied to the mesh.

The photo shows the drainage system around the house - a trench and inspection wells along the edges

A collector well is installed to which drainage pipes will be connected. It is located at the lowest point on the site;
using a laser or construction level, the slope of the trench running near the foundation is ensured towards the drainage basin;
the bottom of the trenches is covered with a layer of sand of at least 5 cm;
geotextiles are laid on the sand, the sides of which will subsequently be wrapped overlapping;
a gravel backfill is created having a thickness of about 10 cm;
Prepared perforated pipes are laid on the gravel layer. Their slope is ensured at 2 degrees;
pipes are joined with adapters and corner connectors;
at the corners of the building, all pipelines enter installed inspection wells;
Pipes are laid from inspection wells to drain water into a collection well or drainage pit. These pipes are also located in trenches and have a slope;
The pipes are filled with gravel (about 10 cm) and the entire contents are wrapped in geotextiles. Using synthetic ropes, geotextiles are firmly fixed;
further backfilling of the trenches to the soil level is carried out with sand or turf soil.

We looked at how to make drainage around a wall-type foundation. Next, we will pay attention to the manufacture of trench drainage, which is even more popular.

Manufacturing of ring drainage

For this type of work you will also need perforated pipes, crushed stone, sand and geotextiles. When a ring drainage system is made around a house, the technology involves digging trenches at a distance of 5-8 m from the foundation of the building to eliminate the possibility of subsidence of the soil around it. The trenches are located around the building and form a closed system. The depth of the trenches should be such that the drainage passes 50 cm below the foundation level.

Immediately draw a trench (or several trenches) towards the main drainage well. The slope of the trenches is ensured at least 2-3 cm per linear meter. The slope can be adjusted by adding sand in the right places.

the bottom of the trenches is lined with a layer of sand, and then with geotextiles, the edges of which are wrapped on their walls;
crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile in a layer of 10 cm;
Pipes with holes drilled in them are laid out on the crushed stone. It is advisable to use a pipe diameter of at least 10 cm. It is advisable to first wrap all pipes with a layer of geotextile, which will prevent them from clogging;

Tip: Regular PVC pipes used for sewerage are quite suitable. You can drill holes of small diameter in them with a drill, arranging them in a certain order.

the slope of the pipes is checked, which must be at least 2 degrees;
At pipe bends, inspection wells are installed, covered with removable covers. The same wells should be installed on long straight sections, in increments of 12 m;
crushed stone or gravel is poured over the laid pipes in a layer of 20-30 cm;
the entire “pie” inside the trenches is wrapped with geotextile overlapping;
the remaining space in the trenches is filled with river sand and covered with turf.

Features of drainage wells

Any drainage around a site or building must be constructed using several inspection wells located at pipe bends. It is in these places that drainage pipes become clogged most often. Through the inspection well, you can monitor the cleanliness of the drains and clean them if necessary. Wells can be purchased or made from any materials. They should have such a width that it is convenient to clean them by placing your hand there.

In addition to several inspection wells, at the lowest point of the site there is collector well, designed to collect all the water flowing through the channels. This is a wider and more voluminous structure, which can be concrete, plastic or metal. Its depth is chosen so that the pipes entering it are located at a considerable distance from the bottom. This makes it possible to periodically clean the well from sediments accumulated at its bottom and allows the well to fill with wastewater. Water can be pumped out from the collection tank by a pump or flow by gravity to designated areas.

By creating a drainage system around the house according to all the rules, you will get rid of the harmful effects of excessive dampness affecting the foundation and recessed areas of the house.